GRNDSM said:

Is this problem common with all "adjustable ball joints", because they are taller than the regular ball joints and result in higher control arm?

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Any adjustable ball joint will move the arm up, even with the stock arm it could hit.
Taking another look at the Megan Arms from the original post, the ball joint itself and the adjustment method might work from a height standpoint, but the overall width is what would cause issues (probably why they make a point to say measure before you buy).

The SPC ones are cast wider to take the strength up as it needed it, the Megans need to be wide because they decided to choose a wide set BJ, these will act like the SPC inner adjusters and will slip no matter what in you, even the eccentric washer type BJ's slip its just the way they are designed, there are a few ways around making it work but its more cutting the car up to make them fit and rather make the arms to fit the chassis! Never understood why companys make stuff thats going to hit as whats the point?

ileagleracing said:

Any adjustable ball joint will move the arm up, even with the stock arm it could hit.
Taking another look at the Megan Arms from the original post, the ball joint itself and the adjustment method might work from a height standpoint, but the overall width is what would cause issues (probably why they make a point to say measure before you buy).

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Which is why I am intrigued by these parts! Only I would improve them by ditching the washers and using a stainless plate (thicker than the washers) like this:



The added contact with the arm should improve holding strength and stiffen the design. Never mind allowing you to apply more torque on the bolts.

I actually just bought these and i will be doing reviews very soon on my build thread/Journal. http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/project-spooling.505933/

ill do some quick video of the installation so stay tune.

DSMReviver said:

I actually just bought these and i will be doing reviews very soon on my build thread/Journal. http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/project-spooling.505933/

ill do some quick video of the installation so stay tune.

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I'd be interested in seeing pics side by side with the stock arms to see how much bigger the structure around the ball joint is.

ileagleracing said:

I'd be interested in seeing pics side by side with the stock arms to see how much bigger the structure around the ball joint is.

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Yeah I'll do some side by side comparisons. I can't make any assumtions right now because i dont the product in my possession nor have I install it yet. These discussions all up to this point has been theories which could hinder or put a bad rep on the product. Honestly IF the stock ones are having clearance issues on really low cars I'm sure these will be the same. The only concern I have with Megan control arm is the protruding bolts on top of the control arm. I am going to swap it out with low profile arp bolts. That should give me more extra clearance and piece of mind. The control arms are on their way and I should have it early next week.

Looking forward to this.

DSMReviver said:

Yeah I'll do some side by side comparisons. I can't make any assumtions right now because i dont the product in my possession nor have I install it yet. These discussions all up to this point has been theories which could hinder or put a bad rep on the product. Honestly IF the stock ones are having clearance issues on really low cars I'm sure these will be the same. The only concern I have with Megan control arm is the protruding bolts on top of the control arm. I am going to swap it out with low profile arp bolts. That should give me more extra clearance and piece of mind. The control arms are on their way and I should have it early next week.

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while it is theory its pretty good to guess just by looking at them! ive had these in my hands as my friend has them and straight off i could see its going to be an issue! the angle of the tubular arms aswell also place the BJ alot higher then the OEM arm does so that placed with a much high Center pivot of the BJ evals a much much greater hitting issue! dont forget the 6 bolts that are locking that will slide on you just like the SPC inner adjusters! they slip on you aswell. the adjustment plate is wayyyy wider then it should be, but its just another option for folks i guess and we will see how long they last on everyones cars.

im commenting because ive held them and did my initial review just by looking at them!

ec17pse said:

while it is theory its pretty good to guess just by looking at them! ive had these in my hands as my friend has them and straight off i could see its going to be an issue! the angle of the tubular arms aswell also place the BJ alot higher then the OEM arm does so that placed with a much high Center pivot of the BJ evals a much much greater hitting issue! dont forget the 6 bolts that are locking that will slide on you just like the SPC inner adjusters! they slip on you aswell. the adjustment plate is wayyyy wider then it should be, but its just another option for folks i guess and we will see how long they last on everyones cars.

im commenting because ive held them and did my initial review just by looking at them!

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It's a fair observation no doubt but it's the same design that they make for other models and there were no reported issues but if any they are very few. Like any other moving parts in the suspension you are going to need good bolts, lock washers, or use some sort of lock type to keep the plates or bolts from backing out. Hence replacing the bolts with arp ones for me even thought the provided bolts will be fine I'm sure. There are two versions on megan control arms cast version and plated version.

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/1ge...ront-upper-control-arms-and-ls400-brakes.html

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/3ge...-wheels-and-more.html#PhotoSwipe1472231228265

With 6 bolts holding the ball joint plate and control arm plate on the Eclipse megan arm, I fail to see how it will come flying off especially with arp bolts and lock washers.

With the clearance issue, Megan has incorporated downward sweep design to help with the clearance issue where SPC cast fail. I am sure there may be some but still a good guessing game cuz nobody has really install it and report back.

All very good guess like you said

with them designed they are all straight and seem to have more room in the wheel area, we dont, the OEM wishbone is already like 3mm away from hitting the surrounding areas so the plate is going to be a bit of a hope and pray situation, im going to see if i can get my friends arms to put on my mock up chassis and see what hts and clears since its never been used before or on this forum its not. will be a few weeks though as I go on Vacation monday for a few weeks

What "ARP" bolts are you looking to use? Do they make socket heads in higher grade?

Just a heads up guys; I'm working on a front UCA that I'm hoping to bring to market sometime in the first or second quarter of next year. Adjustments will be done at the inboard end via heim joints. I don't know which balljoint I'm going to use yet, but I will be sure to keep it small and compact on the outer end.

99gst_racer said:

Just a heads up guys; I'm working on a front UCA that I'm hoping to bring to market sometime in the first or second quarter of next year. Adjustments will be done at the inboard end via heim joints. I don't know which balljoint I'm going to use yet, but I will be sure to keep it small and compact on the outer end.

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Please make these affordable like your lower arms so that many of us could buy! :thumbsup:

Black95TSIawd said:

Please make these affordable like your lower arms so that many of us could buy! :thumbsup:

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I'm guessing they'll end up being very similar in price to the LCA's, but I won't know for sure until the first set is done.

I'm have the second prototype set of inboard mounts made right now. As soon as they come in, I'll probably start a thread here to discuss balljoint options and other design specifics that you guys might want and need.

Im in for some also!

GRNDSM said:

What "ARP" bolts are you looking to use? Do they make socket heads in higher grade?

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Im thinking socket heads like these that ARP make. Plus they are low profile.

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/ar...srese1-_-arp&gclid=CN_F6_P0384CFUuSfgodJjENAw

99gst_racer said:

I'm guessing they'll end up being very similar in price to the LCA's, but I won't know for sure until the first set is done.

I'm have the second prototype set of inboard mounts made right now. As soon as they come in, I'll probably start a thread here to discuss balljoint options and other design specifics that you guys might want and need.

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Paul, any teaser pics?

DeadlyAKrunna47 said:

Paul, any teaser pics?

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I'm not even that far along on it yet. I'm post some pics down the road once I start my own thread though. Don't want to hijack this one.

You should look into alloy steel flat head screws. Example 7/16-20 are good for minimum 120ksi which should more than plenty especially with multiple fasteners. McMaster has them & they'll probably cost less. I'd lean torwards the blk oxide ones.

DSMReviver said:

Im thinking socket heads like these that ARP make. Plus they are low profile.

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/arp-250-2201?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-arp&gclid=CN_F6_P0384CFUuSfgodJjENAw

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Those are not socket heads and they are much larger than the screws used in this control arms. That bolt pattern is too close together to use anything but socket heads. And I am not sure if ARP would make something like that. But finding sockets head, high strength screws will not be easy.

GRNDSM said:

Those are not socket heads and they are much larger than the screws used in this control arms. That bolt pattern is too close together to use anything but socket heads. And I am not sure if ARP would make something like that. But finding sockets head, high strength screws will not be easy.

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Socket caps are very common to find, they come in 8.8 and 12.9 just ebay them and loads will show up on a listing. The arp ones are much bigger so wont be a great idea, the strength is not the issue because there are 6 of them but its the height thats the problem and locking them to not slip, buttom caps are possibly a good way to go as they are 10.9 and extra shorter then socket caps, plus they have a decent area to hold onto the surface aswell

GRNDSM said:

Those are not socket heads and they are much larger than the screws used in this control arms. That bolt pattern is too close together to use anything but socket heads. And I am not sure if ARP would make something like that. But finding sockets head, high strength screws will not be easy.

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There are other bolts in ARP catelogs so if this one dont work ill use the others. If not there are plenty of other options. Other manufactures. Im good.

Mello said:

You should look into alloy steel flat head screws. Example 7/16-20 are good for minimum 120ksi which should more than plenty especially with multiple fasteners. McMaster has them & they'll probably cost less. I'd lean torwards the blk oxide ones.

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Yeah, ill check it out, honestly the supplied bolts will be fine. I really just want a low profile screws but the extra stength is just piece of mind

ec17pse said:

Socket caps are very common to find, they come in 8.8 and 12.9 just ebay them and loads will show up on a listing. The arp ones are much bigger so wont be a great idea, the strength is not the issue because there are 6 of them but its the height thats the problem and locking them to not slip, buttom caps are possibly a good way to go as they are 10.9 and extra shorter then socket caps, plus they have a decent area to hold onto the surface aswell

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Right on.