Doing 1st clutch install (with engine out of car) while doing my first rebuild too. Have a few questions (FWD):

1) Is $80 Exedy clutch kit plenty good for free modding @ 15 lbs boost? I do believe I've been using a basic exedy kit for past 6 yrs with no problems (running same boost) but thought I'd check.

2) Is red lithium complex grease good for all grease points including input shaft? Can someone explain all the grease points?

3) If original pivot ball and fork appears good should I replace them anyway being they're 24 yrs old?

4) Is the idea to have fork sticking out in the middle part of window and if it's too close to bell housing then shim it, otherwise don't worry?

5) Do I get flywheel resurfaced regardless of appearance? My engine builder should be able to handle that, right? On install does flywheel have to go back in same exact position regarding bolt hole position, otherwise it'll be out of balance?

6) Are new flywheel bolts needed?

I've seen videos like this but all help is appreciated. Thx!

91Bomb said:

1) Is $80 Exedy clutch kit plenty good for free modding @ 15 lbs boost? I do believe I've been using a basic exedy kit for past 6 yrs with no problems (running same boost) but thought I'd check.

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You should be fine with this kit. My only adivce would be to get an OEM TOB instead of whatever comes with the kit.

91Bomb said:

2) Is red lithium complex grease good for all grease points including input shaft? Can someone explain all the grease points?

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The grease you mention should be fine. I have used lithium grease as well as bearing grease. Something is better than nothing. As to the grease points, use the FSM reference below for the clutch fork and TOB/sleeve:


In regard to the input shaft itself, many do not recommend putting any sort of grease on it. It is, however, acceptable (per FSM) to apply a small amount to the splines of the clutch disk and wipe off any access.

91Bomb said:

3) If original pivot ball and fork appears good should I replace them anyway being they're 24 yrs old?

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I most certainly would for piece of mind if you have never replaced it before, or do not plan to service it in the near future. OEM or the Clutchmaster fork are acceptable replacements. Additional info from TRE:

91Bomb said:

4) Is the idea to have fork sticking out in the middle part of window and if it's too close to bell housing then shim it, otherwise don't worry?

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Ideally,you will want the fork position slightly to the right (or diver side) of the window:


Unfortunately, you won't know if you need to shim until you mate the engine and trans. If you want more reading, see TRE's info here:
http://www.teamrip.com/when_why_and_how_to_shim_pivot_ball_info.html

91Bomb said:

5) Do I get flywheel resurfaced regardless of appearance? My engine builder should be able to handle that, right? On install does flywheel have to go back in same exact position regarding bolt hole position, otherwise it'll be out of balance?

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If you have cracks present, the flywheel should be replaced. A properly equipped machine shop should be able to inspect and resurface the flywheel. Ensure you inform them of the step height. For more info:

• http://www.teamrip.com/flywheel_step_height_info.html

• http://www.roadraceengineering.com/clutchandflywheeltech.htm

91Bomb said:

6) Are new flywheel bolts needed?

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So long as the bolts show no visible damage, they should be fine to reuse as they are not torque to yield bolts like head bolts. I would clean them thoroughly ensuring you remove old Locktite. Upon reassembly, you will want to use red Loctite.


I am not sure if you saw part 4 of the clutch video series, so here it is:

Here's why you want the OEM TO bearing instead of the Exedy:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/exedy-oem-clutch-kit-users-chime-in-please.446614/#post-153087287

Good info!

Still not sure about the grease. In the video the guy said put a little on the pivot ball as well as the ?sleeve? that TOB slides onto. Are you supposed to grease the fork where it touches TOB or both sides of fork? What about side of TOB facing motor? Is a little anti-seize good on input shaft instead of grease?

Actually, could someone provide a good description (or pics) of grease points becasue FSM doesn't help me too much here. The non-dsm clutch videos show mechanics globbing grease all over the place. I want to be sure I do it properly so please bare with me.

After getting flywheel resurfaced is it possible to check step height with a digital caliper using depth indicator?

Greaae the fork where it touches tob and the pivot. Grease the sleeve the tob rides on. Do not grease the face of the tob. Less is better then more.
I disagree on the red loctite. Ive driven half a milli8n miles on dsm. I use blue or none at all. Red sucks to remove.
Flywheel depth and machining is critical. Verify the height with a depth mic before you leave the machine shop.

where in NJ are you ?

91Bomb said:

What about side of TOB facing motor?

The non-dsm clutch videos show mechanics globbing grease all over the place.

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NEVER put grease on the TOB side that faces the motor (pressure plate PP). It's a bearing which spins. You want the bearing spinning on it's own internal rollers, not spinning/moving against the PP fingers which would damage them!

Don't put grease all over the place. Only a tiny amount in the indicated places. You don't want grease drooling (when it heats up) all over your PP or clutch disk.

Tranny is out of car now, is it better to remove slave cylinder or leave it on for changing fork + TOB?

I know when you depress clutch the slave cylinder rod pushes on fork moving TOB which allows clutch disengagement. But what exactly is happening inside tranny that allows for disengagement?

91Bomb said:

Tranny is out of car now, is it better to remove slave cylinder or leave it on for changing fork + TOB?

I know when you depress clutch the slave cylinder rod pushes on fork moving TOB which allows clutch disengagement. But what exactly is happening inside tranny that allows for disengagement?

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Nothing happens inside the trans. Input shaft is just no longer connected to the motor. Disc can spin freely. Leave the slave connected and just move it out of the way being careful not to bend the line to hell and back.

Pushing the clutch pedal ultimately has the TOB pushing against the pressure plate which is basically acting like a large spring. Its construction is such that when the TOB is pushed in and the pressure plate fingers are pushed down, it separates the PP's friction surface from the clutch disk enough to allow disengagement. As Paul mentioned, it's all external to the transmission.