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2G Shed find. dsm cherry popped. FUEL PROBLEM HELP!

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MetallicBooger2g

Probationary Member
14
9
Apr 2, 2016
gp, Oregon
Glad to finally to be a part of this community. So I happened to come across the car while looking at a place my friend was looking to rent. I noticed it was super straight and was the tsi awd model. The car has 140k and cosmetically it is super nice.

It has been sitting a little shed for 5 years though so dirt, flat tires, cat paw prints (culprit spotted and scratched), smells like an old tackle box on the inside, etc. The color is the metallic greenish yellow/oslo green. I have seen it debated on which its actually called so i'm at a loss on the actual name and paint code. Does anyone have production numbers for colors and trims?

Everthing appears to be stock. Just seems like a car thats deserves to be out there again. I bought a new battery and changed the battery post connectors/3" melted c- clamp holding the positive connector on OMG. Seriously, but its the only redneck engineering I have found yet. I pulled the fuel line off the fpr and turn the key to accessory... no sound of the fuel pump priming. I hit the clutch and it jumps to the floor and stays there so im assuming the slave cylinder need to be changed. The car will not move right now I am not sure if its because I can't engage the clutch or if its the brakes are locked due to rust. The motor turns over readily but wont fire due to no fuel. So the problems and plan of attack are as follows.

1. Get the car to roll- slave cylinder, fuel pump, stuck e-brake. Will the car roll without a properly working sc or does the e-brake seem more likely to be whats preventing the car from moving?

2. Get the car home, clean and maintenance the crap out of it. Fluids,filters,belts,tires,new grounds, etc..

3. The car is said to stall at stoplights once it gets warm. So im going to check the myriad of possibilities from the maf connector and sensor, boost leaks, vac lines, intake leaks, speedo sensors, tps sensor. Anything i'm neglecting would be welcomed.

4. Basically I would like to turn it back into a dependable car with the capability to be a daily. I know there really isn't a lot of these cars around in stock trim especially in this color.

...So the novel ends.
 
If the tank looks like that and it has sat that long, wouldn't hurt to take the rear subframe to get sand blasted and painted. I did mine last time I dropped it to install an auto rear diff, looks a million times better and gives you a chance to replace the hardware. If you are going through the trouble to drop the subframe and tank, it would not hurt to look at replacing the two axle seals on the rear diff.
 
Oh wow, that is just terrible. Sending units can be found on the cheap if your thrifty. Ive never heard of boiling a tank before, but you may have better luck in the junk yard.

Great find on the car though. Give it the love it deserves.
It an acid bath. Some radiator shops can do it
Godschylde that's what I plan on doing. I will be dropping the rear subframe soon. Going through my options on the fuel lines. Looking at bushings and a couple other things as well. Jfpryde "boiling" is in reference to hot tanking. It's gonna get a whole new assembly and the tank will get a boiling at the local radiator shop. No junkyard stuff. I looked a little closer and the tank appears to be fine. Just a bunch of corrosion from the assembly I believe. Since this will be a pain I'm trying to be efficient and replace what I can while the subframe is out. Any tips on dropping the tank and subframe are welcome.
I have done what you are doing. You could order some steel powder coated lines from Jegs along with the bending tools and run your own fuel lines. as far as the sub-frame, its cut and dry, replace the bushings while you have it out.
 
If the tank looks like that and it has sat that long, wouldn't hurt to take the rear subframe to get sand blasted and painted. I did mine last time I dropped it to install an auto rear diff, looks a million times better and gives you a chance to replace the hardware. If you are going through the trouble to drop the subframe and tank, it would not hurt to look at replacing the two axle seals on the rear diff.
I agree or powder-coated.
 
I found a awd tsi tank for my '90 Talon for $75.00. When I opened it up there was a new Walbro 255 in it. I found the tank on car-part.com. Give that a try.
 
Not sure if your staying OEM all the way , personally I would get all new AN lines from the tank to rail at this point w/ new fuel filter. No bending or kinking and get ride of that horrible kink on the top of the fuel filter banjo bolts ..... either way new lines/ fuel filter are a must.
While your back there give everything a good once over and SOAK everything in WD-40 for a day or so ..... replace any rusted nuts and bolts.
 
Not sure if your staying OEM all the way , personally I would get all new AN lines from the tank to rail at this point w/ new fuel filter. No bending or kinking and get ride of that horrible kink on the top of the fuel filter banjo bolts ..... either way new lines/ fuel filter are a must.
While your back there give everything a good once over and SOAK everything in WD-40 for a day or so ..... replace any rusted nuts and bolts.
I agree, however he has to take budget into account. I went this route and it was not cheap.
 
Silicone intakes has some pretty awesome prices on teflon stainless lines if your going to do your fuel lines. Their fittings are pretty competitive too. I just picked up everything to do mine, and it was considerably cheaper than any other source I could find. It helps that they are right down the road from me too :thumb:.
 
I would get a used gas tank before you acid bath the one you have. There is a lining on the inside of the gas tank that protects it from rusting. If you acid bath the tank it will take it off and the tank will be extremely prone to rust in the future unless you get it re coated. If you do find a rust inhibitor that would work for fuel I feel like it would be hard to get all the nooks in there as its a sealed unit.

I bought a 1g a little while ago that had the gas tank corroded and rusted on the inside pretty good. What I did to get it clean it was rinsed it out a few times with E85 fuel. Then I filled it up to the top with E85 and mixed in some sea foam and let it set overnight. Next I took a rag and wiped out what I could and rinsed it out for another hour with a buddy by swishing it all around every which way replacing the fuel as it got rusty. You will want to have the injectors cleaned/replaced I'm sure. I didn't replace my fuel lines and I had no issues. After you get it running I would add some sea foam again though.
 
I've gone through this with a 1g which has a steel tank as opposed to your 2g plastic tank. All of my issues were contained to the fuel tank and fuel filter. If I were you, I'd drop the tank to clean (acid baths and what not are probably not good with a plastic tank), get a new sending unit, and blow your stock lines out.
 
So I finally made some progress on the car. Took a while to find a sending unit that wasn't $500 dollars. Got a used one for like $200 and it was pretty noticeable that this one came from a humid environment as well. It was on its way to rusting away . Keep your gas tanks filled people! So I hit it with a heavy duty scotch brite and rinsed it with a little liquid wrench and it's acceptable now.
I went with the Walbro 255 because I got a great deal on it. I know rewire, voltage drop, fpr, multiple things to consider. The problem I'm running into now is the angle on the new strainer is at a 45 degree angle instead of a 90. I haven't dropped and cleaned the rust from my tank yet that will be happening asap. Then I will be able to test fit it to see if it hits the plastic trough inside the tank.
The replacement rubber that attaches to support the fuel pump near the strainer is different too. I believe I may have gotten the wrong kind of install kit. Didn't come with any new o-rings or the white plastic rings either. Luckily my older ones are pliable and in good condition. So I'm going to be dropping the tank and blowing out the lines. Once everything's clean and put back together I will give it a shot. Any opinions on the sending unit are appreciated.
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Looks like the wrong sock they way it is tilted at a 45. Inquire about a different one like an original at a parts store and if they have one compair the round attachment point to the one you have. Thats what I would do.
 
So...been super busy. Finally got around to getting an oem strainer to top off the Walbro 255 and luckily the orifice was the same size. Before I got started with everything I pushed some air through the fuel lines. I said to hell with dropping the tank and opted to just wipe everything out as best as I could:pray:. I had limited access to the tank but really it cleaned up better than expected.
There was so much rust from the sending unit WTF and the Japanese lantern looking unit is on the other side was dissolved. Had to repair the hard fuel line on the used lantern unit I picked up. Damn thing had 2 small holes in it:banghead:. Used some bronze colored epoxy putty made for gas tanks from AZ (they who never pick up the phone). No gas is escaping it so it seems to be fine. I will be leaving the seat off for a while to keep an eye on it.
So from there I put in the new sending unit which didn't seal the first time so I got to do it all over again. Gas, jumper cables, and it ran. Superbad misfire, would not idle,leak that sounds just like lifter tick, at least one broken exhaust manifold stud, no boost, people are not joking about the whine of the walbro.
I looked at the maf, exhaust system, intake, then pulled the plugs and they were covered in carbon. I cleaned them with a needle file and through them back in. New ones will be bought tomorrow. Wires and boots were looking good. Then I realized that I hadn't tightened the negative battery terminal so my ground was not making contact :ohdamn:. After adjustments slight misfire, idles at like 800 to a grand, sounds good, dosent boost yet but the gaugeresponds more willingly :hellyeah::D.
Super happy with where I'm at and will be loading some video tomorrow. I'm going to replace the spark plugs, order the slave cylinder for the clutch to the floor issue, exhaust manifold gasket, exhaust manifold studs, tires, check the injectors, alternator belt, afpr, :hmm: and the list will go and go it seems. Till' tomorrow.

Albums listened to during said wrenching:
+Glass Animals- zaba
+The Bamboos- 4
+Pantera- Far beyond driven
+Beastie Boys- Hot sauce commitee part two
+ Alien Ant Farm- Truant
+Zero 7- Record
+Smashing Pumpkins- Siamese dream
 
Build thread may come after its moving under its own power. I'm going to drive it for a while then decide what is going to be its fate. Clotho, Lachesis, Atropos I'm looking at you!
So does anyone know how to change a post title? Trying to get rid of the dramatic title here for one more relevant.
 
I am in the middle of by-passing my stock fuel line. Extreampsi has a nice kit, there are two kits you can choose from, go with the "full" kit. Its new fuel line from the tank to a new fuelab filter, and a new line from the filter to the fuel rail. Unless you want to keep the OEM style fuel filter. Then check the stock fuel line, might be fine. Nice find!
 
Totally off topic but if you decided you wanted to sell this hit me up first. I'd really like to own this car.
Greengoblin what's to be green again :D shout out from your old stomping grounds :)

So does anyone know how to change a post title? Trying to get rid of the dramatic title here for one more relevant.
Up near your first post there is a little drop down tab that you can edit title on, it is right next to the
Best Posts in Thread---- watch ---Ignore Thread options
 
Greengoblin what's to be green again :D shout out from your old stomping grounds :)


Up near your first post there is a little drop down tab that you can edit title on, it is right next to the
Best Posts in Thread---- watch ---Ignore Thread options
I found those options but no tab. I have edited the title of this post once before. Would that have something to do with it? Anyways thanks for the help.

I put some NGK BRP6ES plugs in the car gapped @ .028 and cleaned up some contact points on the battery terminals that were covered in paint. My wires and boots were in the correct order and looked to be in good condition. The alternator belt was replaced too. Runs smoother for sure but it will not idle now:idontknow:. There seems to be a misfire still so I need to check the injectors and their seals. As for the stalling, I feel like it could be a vacuum related problem. I will also be taking a look at the throttle body to see if its dirty. I'm gonna be grabbing some exhaust manifold studs and a gasket so I can try to do a boost leak test asap. Any ideas other ideas about the misfire would be great, I guess I should check the coil pack and cas as well. Till' next time.
 
Runs smoother for sure but it will not idle now:idontknow:. There seems to be a misfire still so I need to check the injectors and their seals. As for the stalling, I feel like it could be a vacuum related problem. I will also be taking a look at the throttle body to see if its dirty. I'm gonna be grabbing some exhaust manifold studs and a gasket so I can try to do a boost leak test asap. Any ideas other ideas about the misfire would be great, I guess I should check the coil pack and cas as well. Till' next time.

Have you pulled the ECU and opened it up to check for leaky capacitors? Leaky capacitors can cause idle problems, the first DSM I owned wouldn't idle when I bought it. Turned out to be leaky capacitors in the ECU, a couple dollar repair if your comfortable desoldering and soldering capacitors.
 
Have you pulled the ECU and opened it up to check for leaky capacitors? Leaky capacitors can cause idle problems, the first DSM I owned wouldn't idle when I bought it. Turned out to be leaky capacitors in the ECU, a couple dollar repair if your comfortable desoldering and soldering capacitors.

Thanks for the heads up about the ecu capacitors. I checked it out and the board and capacitors look great no stains under the capacitors. I took the intercooler pipe and elbow before the throttle body off to check the throttle body. There was a small amount of oil in the elbow and right before the throttle body plate. The plate was clean brass on the surface but when I opened it the entire intake was coated inside with crap. I pulled the egr valve and cleaned it with carb cleaner and scraped out a good bit of gunk. I'm probably going to be hitting this thing up with some sea foam too. Didn't get chance to start it up after cleaning the egr but it is first on the list tomorrow.
 

You da' man krygods! ISC was the culprit. For any on out there who has a stall, low/high idle, misfire, or a mitsu/dsm.... BUY A MULTIMETER!!! Invaluable tool for an aging car with a lot of electronics (my other ride is a 79' c10) packed in tight with a lot of hot iron. So heres what I did once I tested the ISC.

1. Removed ISC and disassembled it.
2. Opened it and a spring fell out..yours probably will to. If not remove it and leave it out.
3. Rotated (clockwise) the black plunger all the way to the closed position.
4. Marked the top of it with a paint pen.
5. Rotated (counter-clockwise) the black plunger one full turn.
6. Reassemble ISC and install without plugging it in.

This allowed me to start the car and the idle goes to 1k and slowly rises to 1400 rpm once warm and seems to hold steady. The plunger when fully closed idled @ 1200 rpm but it climbed to around 2k then started doing the erratic revving up/down problem that is also related to ISC/FIAV. I read about it every time I pulled something up about the ISC delete. Once I realized this thing was manually adjustable it seemed like an adjustable block-off plate. You get the safety of not frying the ECU while being able to adjust your idle speed. So I have only let the car come up to operating temp, but the plunger stayed put where I set it. I'm hoping the vibrations of the motor do not move it but the idle will keep me informed as to whether it happens.
This may have been done before but I just wanted to possibly put another option on the table. Now its on to the exhaust manifold gasket & studs, slave cylinder, and tires. Its turning out to be just as intimate of a relationship as I have always heard of when owning a DSM. Its been worth it.
 
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