stiggity99 said:

90laser:
I mean I could of hopped on the interstate 2/3 weeks ago, grabbed the log, but the next exit's 5miles down the road, then back on for another 5miles.. speed limits 65, that's d@mn near 3k RPM's.... my new cooling components, literally, JUST arrived. Your right, ive built it this far, you Live and Learn.. mishimoto radiators, _may_ be alright, but there slim line coolin fans don't cut it in ~90F days... sorry.. not bashing, just stating the obvious...

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Hello and Thank you for the post,

If you are having any issues with our fans not helping to keep your temps down, please feel free to contact us directly at [email protected] and we will be happy to assist in resolving the issue or concern.

@stiggity99 let us know what comes of this. its cool seeing this level of customer service still available for our products and platforms

dfootedsm/anyone reading this...
I do have a big mouth, and apologize for saying mishimoto fans are junk... there not!! but this would be the 3rd time I've exchanged them. I will swear by the 2 row mishimoto radiator for a 2g MT. I simply removed the mishi shroud and slimline fans, mounted (2) SPAL 12" pullers (1328cfm/each), with $30 worth of OEM mounting hardware, and it was 104F today, and temps stayed in check. 50/50 Antifreeze mixture, 1 12oz bottle of waterwetter and a 170F thermostat. Which is very comforting.. Sorry mishimoto...

stiggity99 said:

dfootedsm/anyone reading this...
I do have a big mouth, and apologize for saying mishimoto fans are junk... there not!! but this would be the 3rd time I've exchanged them. I will swear by the 2 row mishimoto radiator for a 2g MT. I simply removed the mishi shroud and slimline fans, mounted (2) SPAL 12" pullers (1328cfm/each), with $30 worth of OEM mounting hardware, and it was 104F today, and temps stayed in check. 50/50 Antifreeze mixture, 1 12oz bottle of waterwetter and a 170F thermostat. Which is very comforting.. Sorry mishimoto...

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you cant apologize for something not meeting your expectations. Maybe the wording may not be the best , but if something is not keeping up with your current needs and demands its good to know . So we the consumers know what to expect . Like hey Mishi fans are good but they dont do well with hot climates or or a build like xyz.

stiggity99 said:

dfootedsm/anyone reading this...
I do have a big mouth, and apologize for saying mishimoto fans are junk... there not!! but this would be the 3rd time I've exchanged them. I will swear by the 2 row mishimoto radiator for a 2g MT. I simply removed the mishi shroud and slimline fans, mounted (2) SPAL 12" pullers (1328cfm/each), with $30 worth of OEM mounting hardware, and it was 104F today, and temps stayed in check. 50/50 Antifreeze mixture, 1 12oz bottle of waterwetter and a 170F thermostat. Which is very comforting.. Sorry mishimoto...

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The @Mishimoto slim fans are junk, as is their aluminum shroud kit, IMO. The fans are on par with the run-of-the-mill Ebay slim fans and the shroud design is horrible. I'm speaking from my personal experience with both items, and can tell you without a doubt their slim fans do not move the air advertised. Their slim fans and shroud may work for some people, but they will not work for everyone like a high quality SPAL or FAL slim fan/shroud would. I can appreciate Mishimoto offering to assist with correcting the issue, but the real issue is a poorly designed shroud and low quality fans.

Now, I do know people using the Mishimoto race line who say those fans do indeed work well. The race line fans seem to be built on par with the SPAL "high performance" fan I'm currently running. You may want to consider upgrading to one of the race line fans if you stick with Mishimoto.

GST with PSI!!!??
I ended up with (2) 12" Spal >1300cfm High Performance fans, and after 45mins of grabbing these logs, up and down the interstate 5 times... 206F. That's much better than 227F ehehhe. Okay! after straightening my frame, getting another alignment, and installing an EBC... I'm finally able to produce (2) logs... thanks a lot GST with PSI!!!!! the first log may have a little bit of boost in 2nd (traffic dictated this logs demise), the 2nd almost hits 7000RPM, WOT...no interruptions. I'm running 12/13psi, 93octane..

Thanks!!

I take that back . log #1 is good.
#2 was just to check temp

missing log..sorry

@GST with PSI Just wondering if you managed to have a look at my latest logs I posted for you?

In reference to the log.2016.08.10-02.elg: How much boost and what grade fuel was this pull on?

AFRs look good overall.

Your TPS needs to be adjusted, as you never got to 100% the entire pull. Either that, or you need to man up and press the pedal to the floor

Your timing table looks choppy. It's also conservative in the WOT cells. Now that your AFRs are where they should be, ditch that Evo map and try swapping in a 1G or 2G timing map and see where you're at. Basically, you can add timing and/or boost until knock if you want.

1G/2G stock timing an fuel maps below. The 1G table is hotter, so you may want to start with the 2G table first. Load one up and pull/add timing where needed.

@GST with PSI
Would there be any way you could possibly throw together a 2G timing table for me, based on the logs I provided? If so, I will apply, and return with another few logs.
Thank You!!!!

12-13psi on 93pump gas

stiggity99 said:

@GST with PSI
Would there be any way you could possibly throw together a 2G timing table for me, based on the logs I provided? If so, I will apply, and return with another few logs.
Thank You!!!!

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For starters, on that 20G, I'd bump the boost into the 14-15 PSI range minimum. You're probably going to want to at least be in the 20-25 PSI range eventually, but may be limited due to pump gas. I'd try to bump the boost before you swap timing maps. 13 PSI on a 20G isn't going to get you anywhere near going fast.

If you are able to turn up the boost without knock, then start tweaking the timing table. As I said in my last post, load the stock 2G map and start from there. You may need to add or remove timing depending on knock. If you need help doing this, let me know and I'll do my best to guide you through the process.

Keep in mind, I'm just providing feedback here so learning will occur. The idea is to provide you with feedback and answer your questions so you can eventually tune your own stuff. At some point, you have to get off the tit and just go with what you know. I'm doing my best to make sure you have the basic knowledge to make simple tuning adjustments, but you really need to concentrate on understanding how and why I'm giving you certain feedback in each post. When you understand the how and why, you'll be able to tune your own car without me or anyone else. That's the point you need to get to. Either that, or go pay one of the guys advertising remote tuning services, because that ain't me brah

@GST with PSI
If you explain to me what to look for in one of my logs, that shows where timing needs to be added/pulled, how much in increments to adjust +/-
Ive watched the ecmwiki's but after a few days I forget hotkeys, settings, and method... I'm not asking you to tune it for me, it's just I Learn from example, far better
than book learning. which isn't what you've been doing. Thank You, Brother..

First, understand the differences regarding how to manipulate timing within the ECMlink software application:

Then, go do a 3rd gear WOT pull and use the data collected in that log to make changes to the TmngMaxOct DA table: http://www.ecmtuning.com/demos/basictune.html

That's basically all you need to know. The two videos lay it out clear as day, but LMK if you have any questions.

Obviously, watch for knock during the pull, and abort if things get crazy. Add boost/timing to taste, or until knock.

This thread is very helpful as well: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/tuning-with-ecmlink-v3.448002/

@GST with PSI
You couldn't have laid it out any better!
Thanks, as long as I'm tuning in my driveway, and connected, I can re-watch the video(s), too try and figure out the keystrokes, hotkeys, and learn to navigate the interface..
You'Da'Man!!

Okay.. this thread is growing on a year old. I sorta dropped communication when i got stumped on how to pull timing, while smoothing out the cells, have a somewhat tweaked frame, making it next to impossible to do a 2000 - Redline pull in 3rd gear, while logging, and the CEL light tripping under moderate load/boost/RPM. Frame was pulled, and it steers straight now. One major break through... the CEL tripping because knock was detected, was all do to myself not gapping my plugs right, and not running the correct plug. :-/ NGK BPR7ES spark plugs, gapped to .023 and for the first time since i had the engine built, i can drive it like i've wanted too.

As soon as i get out of bed in a few hours, im going to log a 3rd gear pull till 7000RPM, and post it here. @GST with PSI - I managed to do some tuning with my friend who helped me through most of it 2 days ago. I'd appreciate if you wouldnt mind browsing through the tune, and see if we leaned it out enough, pulled enough timing (some cells are at "2"). We were tuning under the assumption the plugs were gapped to .023, and in reality they were more like .028+ which left us with a random hiccup/spark blow out. AND we were tuning around a boost spike (hit 25/26psi for a short, then settled to 19/20) so i should be able to add some timing where we were pulling due to the hiccup/blowout/cel knock.

LOG WILL BE POSTED BY MID AFTERNOON EST. Thanks,

@GST with PSI
Here are a few logs since we put a conservative, 93octane tune till 20psi. Today i added 3psi of boost, and no knock, or anything out of the ordinary. Thank You!

@stiggity99 Sorry it took me so long to get to this...

First, there's not a decent 3rd gear pull in any of those logs.

You didn't post a 3rd gear pull.

Second, your TPS is still f***ed.

Brah...why do you make me repeat the same shit I said to you 4 pages ago? You're killin' me smalls.

GST with PSI said:

You didn't actually got WOT until almost 4k RPM. You need to go WOT at around 2,500 RPM all the way to redline. Again, I can't do a whole lot with the data in your logs unless I can get a good sample.

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GST with PSI said:

-TPS: is dicked up. The offset and scale are out of wack enough where you need to make a manual adjustment. Adjust the TPS.

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GST with PSI said:

You STILL need to make a manual TPS adjustment. -15 on a 110% scale is way off. My TPS is 0 adjustment on a 100% scale. If you're more than + or - 1 or 2 on either the offset of scale, you're TPS needs to be adjusted/replaced. Fix the TPS.

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Also:

Are you on a stock MAF?

Why is your target idle 1100 RPM?


Here's what I need you to do:

1) Legitimately update your mod list (to include MAF, and all the other stuff someone would need to give you feedback on a tune. Go look at my mod list if you don't know what should be there...The correct answer here is EVERYTHING

2) Go adjust your TPS. For real. No, really, fix it.

3) Start a new thread and fill out the template again. We need to start fresh.

4) Post a GOOD 3rd gear pull from around 2.5k to whatever redline for your car is

I'll do my best to reply quicker this time.