Still sounds like no voltage is reaching the headlights red/blue wires. This is usually due to the headlight relay not activating - listen and feel the relay for a click when headlight switch is turned on. Also does it click when the column switch is pulled back (momentary on) and the headlights go on then momentarily? If so then the normal headlight on switch is defective or the wire from it to the relay (to activate it) is broken. Note: the headlight relay is activated by the headlight switch (or momentary switch) connecting the relay's smaller red wire to ground.

It could actually be the headlight switch as well.

I only hear a click when I turn off the parking lights and no click when I just switch the headlights off so guessing that is the problem. Is there a relay somewhere else besides under the hood that controls the headlights?

When I pull back the column switch it does click but neither the headlights nor the dash indicator comes on at all not even for a second.

The headlight relay is only in the engine fusebox. When I say click I mean of the relay itself - not the switch. I doubt you can hear it from inside the car. You have to be at the engine fusebox and holding your finger on the relay to feel the click while someone else turns the headlights on. Check this both with just normal headlights on switch and pull back switch.
If the relay is not clicking remove it. Then short (with wire) the upper 2 pin slots of it's socket - the headlights should go on. If that works remove the wire and measure resistance from the lower right pin slot to ground. It should go near 0 when headlight switch is turned on or pulled back. If it doesn't problem is in the switch (most likely) or wiring from relay to switch. This assumes relay is good (you can swap into another relay's socket to test).

So here is what I have found out so far. The relay doesn't click at all when turning on the headlights or when I switch between high & low beams even with a good relay installed. I grounded out the top two pins and the lights come on. I check resistance with the lower right pin and ground and the mulimeter needle doesn't move at all when I switch the lights to the on position.
As far as the column switch I swapped it out with a switch from a 95 Dodge Avenger but it still didn't work. Is that column switch compatible or do I need one specifically out of a DSM?
Another question if that Avenger column switch is compatible with a Talon and it is the wiring somewhere between the switch and the relay could I put the headlights on a toggle switch until I have time to dig into the wiring?

When I put a single jumper between the two upper pins and the lights turn on I can actually use column switch and it will allow me to switch between high and low beams fine, so would I only need a regular toggle or a three way? Thanks for your help guys, I really appreciate it.

jamesongst said:

As far as the column switch I swapped it out with a switch from a 95 Dodge Avenger but it still didn't work. Is that column switch compatible or do I need one specifically out of a DSM?
Another question if that Avenger column switch is compatible with a Talon and it is the wiring somewhere between the switch and the relay could I put the headlights on a toggle switch until I have time to dig into the wiring?

Click to expand...

I don't know if the column switch is compatible or not but I'd suspect not. You would have to test continuity on all it's switch position combinations to be sure along with making sure it has the same plug wiring. You could also call Dodge to see if they have the same part number.
Yes you can put in a toggle (but it is not a 3 way). Connect the toggle to the smaller red wire on pin 6 of the 10 pin "column switch (lighting switch)" connector (note: pin 5 has green/white wire, pin 7 has black). Or connect it to the lower right pin of the headlight relay socket. Connect the other side of the switch to ground.
The high/low beam is controlled by a separate column switch. It connects pin 6 (larger red wire) of the 6 pin "column switch (dimmer passing switch)" connector to ground when high beam is selected (this supplies ground to the common high beam filaments themselves). The lighting switch must be on to activate the relay to supply power to the headlights in both the low and high beam cases.

I just saw your above post saying the high beam switch works. Then you only need the first toggle switch I mention above (on-off regular toggle - not 3 way).

I'm actually having a very similar problem. My headlights are not turning on as well, changed the bulbs and it didn't fix anything.

I was able to pull my bumper today to notice the passenger side harness is fused to the main wiring harness, and some of the wiring is exposed. Even though it looks pretty bad, I tested for voltage on the blue wire for the low beams and they are receiving power (at least on the passenger side). The drivers side harness visually looks fine and isn't melted at all, but I wasn't receiving any voltage on it (testing at the bulb socket).

I can hear the relay clicking on and off, so I'm unsure at this point what the problem might be. I never looked into the "switch" that I'm seeing in this thread. When you mean switch are you referring to the physical switch that is turned to turn on the headlights?

I fixed my car over the weekend after discovering the problem (which I thought would be an easy fix). I will post a picture of the hell I went through all day Saturday.

This actually doesn't look that bad, but when I saw it I was about to give up on the car. After soldering new wire for all the bad ones, the ABS light turned off and the lights work normally.

I had a problem like that but it turned out to be the plug itself, it wasn't connecting right and it wouldn't make the lights come on. I i got a new plug, changed it out and it worked. It was pnly $10 from the dealer so it was so worth it.

well in my case only one headlight left side low beam doesnt work, any help please!!

Examine the factory socket that plugs into the back of the bulb. The plastic used on the factory connector is crap, and has a tendency to melt enough that the contact burns and loses conduction. Replacement, non-shit (and, not that disturbing Real Doll pink color) sockets are on the rack at all the auto parts stores, about $7 a toss.

Defiant said:

Examine the factory socket that plugs into the back of the bulb. The plastic used on the factory connector is crap, and has a tendency to melt enough that the contact burns and loses conduction. Replacement, non-shit (and, not that disturbing Real Doll pink color) sockets are on the rack at all the auto parts stores, about $7 a toss.

Click to expand...

this is what i did, as you can see in the pic i did attach two other black cables to each color just wanna see i have power on both from the black cable will fire if i touch a metal but the other one wont do anything is this ok Im lost bro help me out you still think is the plug it can be something way before that right, let me know what you all think thank you

Defiant said:

Examine the factory socket that plugs into the back of the bulb. The plastic used on the factory connector is crap, and has a tendency to melt enough that the contact burns and loses conduction. Replacement, non-shit (and, not that disturbing Real Doll pink color) sockets are on the rack at all the auto parts stores, about $7 a toss.

Click to expand...

here is what i did
the 1st plug that connect to the bulb works the second plug it works to. what else can be any help please i have to pass the inspection soon helppppp!!!!!!!!!!!!!

ive got a 96 eclipse gs and im having close to the same problem but mine is weird cuz my passenger side headlight turns on when i turn the headlights on but the driverside doesnt and when i click the highbeams on the passenger side comes on but no on the driverside now if i swap my light over to passenger side both bulbs work so i figured it was my wireing cuz as a few other ppl said also their highbeam light doesnt come on neither does mine and when i test to see if there is power in the clip for the driverside headlight the black wire (ground) has none the middle wire pure red has full power but as i check the power to the small red wire there is power but it is dim as there isnt enought power with it...i ran that wire all the way to the dash behind the speedometer and when i check the power i do believe the wire for that clip is yellow and red line or yellow with blue line has good power but when i put the speedometer back in the dash is still has hardly any power to that line...the relay clicks when i turn the lights on dont think it clicks when i hit the highbeams and when i turn the headlights on with no relay and take a wire and test each one the main power at the end and the one above it turns my passenger side on but when i keep it in the power and try the right corner pin nothing happens and when i do the left pin cuz of no middle pin it sparks and smokes so i turn highbeams on and power goes on the right pin and i can turn on the passengerside with it but when i try using the wire on the right pin with the left pin and it still sparks and smokes so ive replaced almost everything so idk if maybe the small red wire (left pin) could be melted in the harness somewhere and not working or maybe im just not doing things right but if anyone could help ide appreciate it...even my reverse lights wont work even with all the fuses good it still doesnt send power to the lights when its in reverse even though there is power in the wire in the switch on the trannybut yeah if anyone knows anything that could help ill try anything.thanks