The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support RTM Racing
Please Support Rix Racing

2G Rear Alignment Questions

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

JackStieben

Proven Member
200
21
Feb 11, 2014
San Antonio, Texas
Hello, my 97 gst is lowered with eibach springs and tokico struts. I just installed an rm sway bar and prothane bushings all in the rear. I wanted to try and fix my rear camber with the washer method using 4 washers on each bolt. When I took the car to the dealership for an alignment, the tech said the washers wouldn't do anything and he couldn't adjust my toe or camber unless I got new rear control arms to adjust it. Is this true? I'm not top knowledgeable when it comes to adjusting suspension. Should I try more washers?
 
By putting the washers behind the control arm mounting bracket and the body it pushes the control arm outward giving more positive camber. So depending on how you have them, yes it does do something and he's an idiot
 
That tech shoild be fired if he said he couldnt adjust the toe on the rear. That is the one thing on the rear that is adjustable from the factory.
 
You should buy a rear camber kit and with that it's easy to adjust camber. The dealarship might not want to touch the washers to adjust it might be to much work and the toe can be adjust easily
 
You should buy a rear camber kit and with that it's easy to adjust camber. The dealarship might not want to touch the washers to adjust it might be to much work and the toe can be adjust easily
What camber kit do you suggest? I've been to another alignment shop that specializes in low cars and lifted trucks/jeeps, and they wereto adjust everything but rear camber. They suggested new control arms, but I've seen those brackets that attach to the control arm.
 
No the toe is adjustable from the showroom. It the only thing you can adjust on the rear without buying parts
 
Just got an alignment from a respectable shop here in town. Here are the results.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I also just realized that they put down that I have 16" wheels, but I have 17". Not sure if that would make a difference.
 
Wow thats alot of rear camber! You need to fix that asap! -1.5/2 max for the rear, whow much are you lowered by?
 
Rear camber is really bad and can be adjusted with the camber kit and one of the front wheels has a lot of camber might be wear on parts but you should buy a front camber kit also.
 
When you said that they put down 16 wheels size and not 17 it's because that's what stock alignment specs are and some alingnment machines all you do is type in vin and it gives you own specs should be fine. It's really hard to get a perfect alignment on lowers cars.
 
You've got (3) options for fixing your front camber.
Cheapest : Ingall's front UCA camber kit
Moderate (needs pressed in for install) : Ingall's front UCA ball joint camber kit
Expensive but the most reliable way : 2g spherical 4130 front LCA's

You've got (3) options for fixing your rear camber.
Pick your poison, whatever you can afford. You'll either spend it now on alignment parts/alignments and save your tires or you'll go through the set of tires and spend it later so you don't jack up your new set of tires. I learned the hard way, I couldn't get rear camber in so I said f*** it and 3 months later I popped a year old tire because of the inside wear.

You can spend $200 on the right parts to align your car to save your $500+ tires later...
 
The P.O. told me it was lowered 1.6". He's the one who put on the springs and shocks. Because of the previous awful rear toe, I'm going to need new tires soon anyways so I'll get to fixing this before hand. So my best bet would be to get one of the options above for the front and rear and then go back for another alignment? Thank you everyone for your help.
 
Its lowered more then 1.6" LOL when i did mine and worked out the degree per inch it is not close to being 3* so my guess is your close to being over 2" lower, ive got my book somewhere were i wrote all this down so when i find it i will let you know what the rates are for camber per inch or mm of drop
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top