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Crankwalked 2 motors within 1000 miles

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born2race

10+ Year Contributor
129
4
Oct 12, 2011
Wayne, New_Jersey
Hey guys. So I'll give you all the whole run down of the past 2 years pretty much. My car currently has a 7 bolt 95 block with Evo pistons and rods, Clevite bearings, polished OEM crank. So two years ago I finally blew my first motor having some fun in the snow. Ended up warping the head breaking 4 valves all that fun stuff. So I got the head rebuilt. As far as the block it ended up being pieced together with no name pistons 2g rods, different bolt sizes on the rod caps, & the crank had scratched and markings all over it, it was a mess. My mechanic told me it appeared the car had crankwalk in the past and the previous owner just threw something together to get it running. So my mechanic recommended building a new block but at the time I didn't have the money for that, broke college kid here :). I ended up buying a used block from a friend of his that had Evo pistons and rods with an OEM mistu crank for 500$. Balance shafts deleted, oil squirters deleted. No previous history of crank walk. He took the block apart refreshed everything & made sure nothing was out of the ordinary checked crank end play all that. So he put the motor together & I took it back to the garage and installed it. At the same time, my original clutch was at the end of his life so I bought a comp stage 3 clutch and a ACT chromoly flywheel to go in during the motor install as well, as per my mechanics recommendation. New OEM master cylinder and slave cylinder went in, using the RRE stainless still braided line straight from the master to the slave. Install went smoothly no real issues with anything. The first time I drove the car out of the garage, I heard a clicking every time I pushed the clutch in ( later turned out to be crank eating the sensor.) However I thought maybe the clutch just needed some adjusting or something, since I just got a brand new motor crank walk shouldn't even cross my head right? Wrong.. 500 mile oil change, you can imagine silver metallic flakes. Lots of them, sent the picture to my mechanic, he said it looked very dirty for 500 miles (I was running rich at the time so there was some fuel in the oil but looking back at it the silver is so apparent in the oil.) so he told me to run in again and drop it at another 500. But I didn't make it till there because it was obvious that it was crank walk, the clutch sticking when turning left the crank ticking when clutch being pushed in. Not to
Mention this motor had phenomenal oil pressure, due to the oil squirters being deleted & the balance shafts deleted, I was easily at 30-40 psi at idle. I was going to port the oil filter housing before all these issues came up. So oil pressure was not an issue. This time I brought my car to my mechanic, rather than just the motor and trans so he would have the entire car to diagnose the issue. He claimed the crank walked due to me not adjusting my clutch pedal and causing a huge amount of side load. I'll take the blame for that one if that's the case. The clutch did grab like right as you took the pedal off the floor. But since it was my first new clutch, I figured that's the way it was supposed to feel & my mechanic said that it should grab almost immediately off the ground. Since this was my first build, I followed his advice. However my argument is I am almost positive it did the ticking noise as I was backing it out of the garage, so the clutch had to put that pressure on the crank enough to make it walk the first time I depressed the pedal( I did not start it with the clutch pedal in, clutch switch has always been disconnected) so, motor number 2. He ended up using my first block, the original one I blew due to the piston to wall clearances being tighter with it. ( When I walked the first motor one of the piston ringlands cracked from the excess side pressure) this motor has the oil squirters still I believe, sourced another 2g crank and had it machined since the one from the other motor was destroyed. My mechanic assured me that he quadrupple checked all endplay made sure all bearing clearances were correct. Fine. And he adjusted my clutch so it should be perfect now. The only thing he told me to do was to change out the bushings in the pedal assembly as the only other thing it could be was perhaps the assembly itself was binding causing all the pressure.. Didn't sound like it made sense to me but fine it did anyway, old bushings looked perfect. So that's out of the question. Well now I did my 500 mile oil change & there's silver glitter in my oil again. I have a magnetic drain plug & it was covered with garbage, it had like a consistency of anti seize with metal shavings in it. I called him & he said it could be possible left over machine work and to run ye car for 200 miles & drop the oil again. Well I just did that and same thing, slight silver in the oil but the same sludge type garbage with metal on it at 200 miles. & im pretty sure I'm starting to hear the crank hit the sensor again when I push the clutch in as well. I'm at a loss at this point. Thoughout these 2 motor build scenario I've spent almost close to 10k. ( not all of it was motor work obviously, probably around 5k between the two motors). Everybody's telling me to sell the car but I'm so close to being finished. Is there something I'm over looking? The whole point of this post is to ask is it something else on the car we're missing or is it my mechanic? Whatever you guys need to know I can provide I have the invoice with details on end play specs whatever info you need just ask. Thank you in advance for the help.

First motor, 500 miles

Second motor, 500 miles

Second motor, additional 200 miles
 

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