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2G HELP! First start with new head and timing belt.. No Oil Pressure!

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1slowhatch

Proven Member
172
2
Mar 5, 2014
Reno, Nevada
Purchased my 2G Talon TSI Auto with a broken timing belt. Previous owner says it ran fine prior to belt breaking. I rebuilt the cylinder head, new hg, arp bolts, timing set, etc. Reassembled everything. I turned it over several times with the coil disconnected. Then cranked it up. It fired right up, but both the oil pressure gauge read "0" and light are on. I understand the gauge is a common problem, but what are the chances that both are acting up? Do I just not have any oil pressure?

I can pull the oil fill cap and see some oil residue on the cam and inside the head. What's the easiest way to see if I actually have oil pressure!?
 
Easiest way would be making an oil leak on purpose. I have a feeling either you have no pressure or your sensor is disconnected. look on the back side of the engine for any loose or removed plugs.
 
disconnect the crank sensor, take the plugs out so it turns easily and crank it over again. if you're getting oil to the head then oil is moving. double check your gauge and light connections
 
Can pull the oil feed from the turbo and just crank the car over without actually trying to start it like pauleyman stated (disconnect coil/fuel pump, remove plugs) and see if oil comes out.
 
Oil pressure is now fine. It just took a while for it to build pressure. The head was new and covered in assembly lube, so hopefully everything is good. The stock gauge does suck! On a mechanical, it shows low 20's hot, at idle. The car seems to run and drive well. Not overheating, check engine lights, etc. I guess now I can start working on the Holset install!
 
Also, I seem to have a valve cover leak at the front of engine. Used (new to me, uncracked valve cover) with new cheapo gasket. I have tried gently tightening all the bolts several times, and it still leaks!? Any ideas? Is it possible that it is cracked, and I just don't see it?
 
Also, I seem to have a valve cover leak at the front of engine. Used (new to me, uncracked valve cover) with new cheapo gasket. I have tried gently tightening all the bolts several times, and it still leaks!? Any ideas? Is it possible that it is cracked, and I just don't see it?

What kind of gasket did you use? Did you use any RTV along with the gasket to seal it? Used a torque wrench?
 
What kind of gasket did you use? Did you use any RTV along with the gasket to seal it? Used a torque wrench?

No torque wrench. just carefully torqued with 3/8" ratchet. I used just the gasket, but did "hold" it in place to the VC with some silicone (trying to keep it from moving on install). I'll look up torque specs and check the bolts.
 
I don't have a torque wrench that will read that low. I wonder why this thing leaks? I used an aftermarket gasket (comes in Evergreen gasket kit).
 
Get a torque wrench and torque it following the correct procedure to replace the gasket. I'd get a new gasket and rtv and start over too or else this will probably happen again. Do it right or do it twice.
 
I don't have a torque wrench that will read that low. I wonder why this thing leaks? I used an aftermarket gasket (comes in Evergreen gasket kit).
I wouldn't use a torque wrench, that's how you crack the valve covers, ask me how I know. Just tighten them down with a ratchet, you don't need to be hanging on, just a "snug" fit.
Your problem isn't how tight they are, it's the gasket and the fact you didn't RTV it. Get a Felpro gasket and put a light layer of RTV on there. Should be fine after that.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/help-replacing-valve-cover-and-gasket-4g63t.436560/
Read post 3.
 
I wouldn't use a torque wrench, that's how you crack the valve covers, ask me how I know. Just tighten them down with a ratchet, you don't need to be hanging on, just a "snug" fit.

I've always used a torque wrench on my valve covers and never have cracked one. You might want to check into a new one if yours is not reading correctly.
 
I didn't check it for flatness. I'm a little concerned, it seems to leak only under boost/being driven. I'm hoping it isn't a blow by issue. There isn't much oil in the turbo inlet or really any other signs of it. It does leak oil at the oil pan moderately (but it looks like at least 1 bolt is stripped out on the pan).

The car is a completely stock auto. I would think blow by would be relatively unlikely on something like this? 117k original miles. No signs of boost controller or other mods. Stock exhaust.

Also, I will post this on a new thread, but it appears my alternator is not charging. On first start up, the alt/battery light came on. I noticed 1 battery clamp was loose, so I put a new terminal on it. Now both terminals are clean and tight, battery passes a load test, but I can't the alternator to charge (always reads battery voltage when checked at output on alternator or battery terminals). What could that be? The alternator itself appears to have been recently replaced. I have no fault lights on in the dash.
 
The valve cover problem has been taken care of ( I think). I replaced the gasket with a new Fel Pro unit. I noticed this gasket is thicker and much nicer than the old one. I used some silicone around half moon and to hold the gaskets in place. Torqued carefully with a 3/8" ratchet... leak seems to be gone. Thanks everyone! DON'T USE THE JUNK AMAZON/EBAY VC GASKETS. OEM OR FELPRO ONLY!!!
 
Glad to hear you fixed it man. About your alternator issue, while the car is running pull the negative cable. If the car runs, then alt is good, if it dies then it's bad. There's another way to test with a multi meter if you have one but seems like it's a bad one, just because it's new doesn't mean it's good. I went through two Alternators from Oryllies and Auto zone till I bought one from Rockauto that worked
 
Now I am having another problem. I seem to have fixed all the boost leaks (used boost leak tester to 20psi). The car still feels slow. Took it to the track (high elevation, lots of heat) and it ran terrible. I couldn't get it to build any boost at the line, so it was running mid 16's at 83? mph? I do have a boost controller on it, tried turning it up, but didn't seem to help. I put a boost gauge on it. Now, it seems like the boost is very erratic. It takes 2 or 3 seconds to build any boost foot braking it, will spike to 18, then fall to 13 or 14. Part throttle you'll see 15+. Very slow to pull out into traffic etc. The mileage is also terrible (around 9 mpg). There are no CEL codes. The only thing I can think of is maybe the ECU is pulling a bunch of timing? You can feel it slow and speed up, sometimes feel like you're hitting a wall, even though the boost gauge shows 15+psi. Heat soak??? Bad turbo?? (does have some in and out, and side to side play). Partially plugged cat?? Also, I only have 91 octane available.
 
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