EC17PSE
Freelancer
- 5,894
- 3,487
- Nov 1, 2008
-
London, UK,
Europe
So I dont know the best way around this as its not something thats easy to do from what I read or see, I recently done the brembo swap and find the fronts have wayyyyy too much bias causing my front end to break traction very easily (mainly because of my pad choice) and I want to make it adjustable and have the read suit the fronts a bit better. i know im not on R compounds yet as I was on AD08R tires but even still im finding the front loves to snatch and the rear I feel could even the braking up a little and could actually gain from this
upon speaking to a company they said ditch the stock prop valve and run a T from 1 mc port to the front calipers and then another T to a bias adjuster and then on to the rear calipers!
now i dont know how the stock prop valve works inside or if its just a case of hole sizing being the restriction and controlling the bias or if there is springs and a BB floating or not but if i took the prop valve away and run it straight frpm the MC would that not over power more then I am now? i would surely need an adjuster in the front aswell which would be more money and a pita of a job?
my ultimate setup would be custom pedals with dual cylinders and a bias bar on the pedal box to adjust the bias as thats the best way but is not cheap or easy to fit in all cars, something like the picture attached,
i could afford it but i would have to save and seeing how the adjuster from AP racing is not cheap anyway maybe it is a better way to go on the bias adjusting as i will have full control and nicer pedals and i could also rid of the evo booster and mc completely, i would just have to match the Evo MC size to these cylinders to match perfectly
also whats the general thoughts on running 1 line to the rear and T splitting it near the rear subframe? i dont know of any negative downsides to this but it is cleaner as far as less hose but would keeping the 2 lines create less heat for the fluid or is its something to do with a better pressure feel from the MC?? I wich i knew more on the prop valve and whats inside it, would help alot to understand more whats going on inside
just seeing if anyone has any thoughts and ideas or has even gone this far before in terms of making it fully bias adjustable
upon speaking to a company they said ditch the stock prop valve and run a T from 1 mc port to the front calipers and then another T to a bias adjuster and then on to the rear calipers!
now i dont know how the stock prop valve works inside or if its just a case of hole sizing being the restriction and controlling the bias or if there is springs and a BB floating or not but if i took the prop valve away and run it straight frpm the MC would that not over power more then I am now? i would surely need an adjuster in the front aswell which would be more money and a pita of a job?
my ultimate setup would be custom pedals with dual cylinders and a bias bar on the pedal box to adjust the bias as thats the best way but is not cheap or easy to fit in all cars, something like the picture attached,
i could afford it but i would have to save and seeing how the adjuster from AP racing is not cheap anyway maybe it is a better way to go on the bias adjusting as i will have full control and nicer pedals and i could also rid of the evo booster and mc completely, i would just have to match the Evo MC size to these cylinders to match perfectly
also whats the general thoughts on running 1 line to the rear and T splitting it near the rear subframe? i dont know of any negative downsides to this but it is cleaner as far as less hose but would keeping the 2 lines create less heat for the fluid or is its something to do with a better pressure feel from the MC?? I wich i knew more on the prop valve and whats inside it, would help alot to understand more whats going on inside
just seeing if anyone has any thoughts and ideas or has even gone this far before in terms of making it fully bias adjustable
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Last edited:
