The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support RTM Racing
Please Support STM Tuned

2G Radio turns off when I pull interior light fuse.

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Jacolu3

Proven Member
638
130
Jan 31, 2015
Lake Grove, New_York
Is the radio suppose to lose power when you remove the fuse for the interior lights? The fuse box under the hood has a fuse for the radio and a separate fuse for the interior lights. If I pull either one of them the radio shuts off.
 
I had and probably still have a battery drain when the interior light fuse is installed so I removed it so my battery didn't die. So I've been just driving around with no radio
 
Is it a stock or aftermarket radio? If aftermarket, it could depend on how the radio was wired up. I'd suggest pulling the radio and matching the wires to be sure it's done correctly.
 
I would double check the wiring and check to make sure its grounded correctly as well.
 
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You can always wire it around that fuse if you need to.. But figuring out why youre getting drain would be better than pulling a fuse.

When I first got the car there were wires everywhere. Really was a nightmare trying to clean up the mess. The first day I had the car I removed a ton of wiring with more to take out. Here's a pic of some of the excess wires
 
I wouldn't wire it like Denvario said, if your going to pull all that crap out and fix it do it right.
Yellow needs to be on a 12v constant, so use a test light and find a wire that has power with no key in/acc off. I found one in the old radio harness.
Red needs to be on a 12v accessory wire, I spliced into one from the cigarette lighter.
Personally, I always ground extra connections to the chassis/metal itself instead of splicing into the wiring harness. This prevents any extra load from causing issues. There are several bolts on the left and right of the center console (under the access panels) that are good for this.
 
I had and probably still have a battery drain when the interior light fuse is installed so I removed it so my battery didn't die. So I've been just driving around with no radio
Your going to have to find this battery drain someday anyway. The room fuse powers more than just the radio and dome lamp: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/10...-fuse-draining-battery.424216/#post-152856627.

Here's how to find shorts and battery drains: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/finding-a-short-partial-short-or-battery-drain.179481/#post-1496998
 
Car electrical systems is what I do for a living he could bypass the circuit as said above and have no problems at all other than that circuit not being powered causing whatever else on that circuit to not work... Test light won't tell him where his parasitic draw is coming from he needs a Dmm digital multimeter a cheap one from harbor freight will do just fine... Switch your red probe to 10amp plug switch to amperage setting remove the battery cable place meter in series with the battery and the cable removed anything over 150milamps is too much period that will include anything aftermarket ex. Alarm systems, etc if you read that it's higher or there is a draw start pulling fuses until you isolate that circuit then start unplugging equipment on that circuit till draw goes away and you will find the culprit ...
 
Finally got a chance to test some stuff out today.
Pulled the radio and the ground is going directly to the chassis with a stake on around a bolt and I tested it and the ground is good.

Now with both fuses installed (radio and interior lights) the yellow wire has constant power and the red has power only in acc.
If I pull the radio fuse I lose acc power (red wire). But still have my constant (yellow).
If I pull the lights fuse I lose both acc and constant power.

So not sure if this is correct or not. Any input would be greatly appreciated
Thanks
Brian
 
Also I might have corrected my parasitic draw when I removed sold alarm system and just never checked. I just checked my draw and I'm getting 30 milliamps which I believe should be fine. If I remove the interior light fuse I get 10 milliamps. Don't think that an extra 20 milliamps should drain my battery.
 
Any draw will drain the battery eventually but a small draw will take a long time to do so if it's below 150ma you are fine for perspective a alarm led flashing draws 150ma. The interior fuse should be the constant 12v source for the radio only not accy as well something is not correct
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top