Special thanks to, GST with PSI!!!

Okay, here goes... again.
I have someone kind of local, who makes a 45min trip to come to my house, and tune my car. He was tuning my 96 Talon TSi, and we couldn't get it to boost passed 19psi without the CEL tripping. Well, I broke the transmission in it, and bought a 1999 GSX that needed everything my Talon had, to work. I sourced a 5spd transmission and matching xfer case, verified they are matching, and put the .040 Wiseco 9:1/Scat long block into the GSX, and the ECU/DSMLink from the Talon, into the GSX. I got it all together, made the "Use Non 95/96 Cam sensor" correct, swapped my plug wires, and it started right up. Every single pump/alternator/starter/sensor, etc are all brand new. The engine has BC 272's, BC springs/retainers. Revised lifters, new pump, OEM BSE, balanced, and assembled at a reputable machine shop. I'm running FIC 11200cc injectors, and base fuel pressure is set to 43.5psi, with the vacuum line off, and plugged. Every single intercooler coupler is brand new, with brand new t-clamps, all tightened universally. I made a BLT from parts from the shop, and Lowes, and the system holds pressure to 25psi, then my tool explodes. There are no, black sooty, spots on any of the exhaust(which is also is new). Megan Racing o2 housing, 3" downpipe w/Wideband o2 bung, and 3" pipe to a muffler in the rear. No cat. I AM logging wideband in DSMLink, and am NOT simulating wideband via the front o2.(which is also new). There is no adjustment with my timing, as they are stock gears, and the timing marks all line-up Perfectly. Starts perfect in 25degree weather, and starts right back up, after shutting down. Believe it or not, it doesn't leak anything either. The ignition system consists of brand new coil packs, Magnacore 8.5MM wires, and NGK BR8ES plugs gapped to .025. The turbo, and longblock have, roughly, 9500 Miles on them. It doesn't burn oil, and I have yet to perform a compression test, but I'm 99.9% sure there within 5% of eachother across the board. Every single sensor has been replaced with new ones, 9500 miles ago, except ISC, and TPS. TPS is reading .63volts, and my idle is very good. Every once in awhile, if its been beat on for awhile, the idle will surge to 1400RPM but quickly settle to 1000RPM's. There are Zero CEL's, MIL's, DTC's. I am logging my wideband off the rear o2 pinout, via a wire ran directly to the ECU. It idles at 13.x volts, and under higher RPM's DSMLink shows 14.5volts on a brand new alternator. I don't run any other fuel than Sunoco 93octane pump fuel, and last but not least, not only did I watch the ECMTuning tutorials, but I understood what was happening, but still don't have the hotkey's, and click combo's memorized. I'm running a shoutbend clutch kit, new axles, wheel bearings, inner outer tie rods, and am going in for a 4whl alignment soon. I'm attaching a 1MB log, that shows revs from idle to 7250RPM's, under 20psi boost, and pulls in 1/2/3/4 gear. I can capture a log for ANYTHING, and at ANYTIME, for ANYONE that wishes to see more. Every aspect of the ECU has been made permanent by Chris Martin, my tuner. He's busy, and its hard to get our schedule aligned to seup an hour or 2 of tuning. And, from the feedback I've received from this forum, I may want to look elsewhere for tuning purposes.

Now you know more about my car, here's one of the main issues, I'm experiencing.

I cannot boost past 20psi, or the CEL trips, and pulls timing. My tuner told me it might be phantom knock, and try some 100 octane unleaded race gas to see. Well, I sorta want a 93 octane, conservative tune. Attached is a log from startup to operating temperature, a boost wot run from 1/2/3 gear, a cruise on the highway, and back. Thanks to anyone brave enough to decipher this log.

I don't know what I did wrong. Instead of a monotonous, 1 through X of "things that need to be verified, before someone will answer you" I tried making it more like a story. Well, it's going on a week, and nobody has replied, so I must have missed something...

Anyone??

So lower timing when it's to much up top is the 20g internally gated?

What exactly has he done, tuning wise? Because honestly it doesn't look near done. Your target AFR is still the stock which is too rich. I was actually getting rich knock at one point, you need to be shooting for 11.0 on 93. (unless you are on E85 and I didn't see it) Also, your WBfactor is high. Need to be shooting for 0%. Basically the ecu is shooting for 9.5 AFR and you are 12% or MORE away. It also has alot of variation at different RPMs. Honestly, it looks like you have some reading to do. Go to ECMLinks website and watch the beginner demos a few times. Here. Once you watch those read up on this site. You should try this one, and this one, and this one.....
Read many times and give it a shot. I would start over from the beginning from the looks of it.

dsmftw: Is there a factory reset means??I don't have the paperwork that came with my injectors, and I guess if I reset everything, set deadtime/global fuel pressure.. it should start??

Forgot to mention,
Yep... it's internally gated.................

stiggity99 said:

I don't know what I did wrong. Instead of a monotonous, 1 through X of "things that need to be verified, before someone will answer you" I tried making it more like a story. Well, it's going on a week, and nobody has replied, so I must have missed something...

Anyone??

Click to expand...

There's a reason for the monotonous list of things we ask you to answer. It's so we can quickly and easily scan through the data you provide in template form to provide you with good feedback in a timely manner.

While I do appreciate you taking the time to put all the details in story form, this is one of those cases where being different is not better. Having to scan through your single huge paragraph to find the data we need is a chore, and is probably the main reason why you're not getting the feedback you're hoping for.

First, and foremost, STOP LETTING RANDOM IDIOTS TUNE YOUR CAR. I don't know a nicer way to say this to you. If that log was captured after a "tune", your tuner should find a a new job, and you should find a new tuner. Again, go to the freelancer section like I told you before and find a tuner if you want somebody else to tune your car. If you keep letting morons adjust your tune, you're going to destroy your car...And at that point a decent tune will be the least of your worries.

Alternatively, you can take the other course of action, and fill out the template to get help here.

Regarding your log, for WOT help I need to see a 3rd gear pull from ~2,500rpm to redline. I can't do anything with the log you posted, other than tell you all the base settings that are screwed up (which there are plenty of).

-TPS: is dicked up. The offset and scale are out of wack enough where you need to make a manual adjustment. Adjust the TPS.

-Your deadtime should be set to around 330
>https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/baseinjectordata

-Timing adjustment table: Zero it out. That's for preliminary tuning, not for long term adjustment. Any adjustments made to these (timing and fuel adjustment tables) should ultimately be made permanently in the Direct Access tables. You only use these tables for on the fly adjustment, so you don't have to shut the car down every time you want to subtract/add some timing and/or fuel after a pull.

-MAF comp table: Based on what I've seen thus far, I'd zero this out and start from scratch. No adjustment was made in the upper RPM range anyways, which is where it really counts. Zero it, and start over after fixing everything else.

-FPS Tab: Are you using this for something? If not, why do you have user settings enabled?

-OLmaxoct table: Yours is set too rich. Lean it out to around 11.0:1

My recommendations to you would be:
1) Tell your tuner Chris Martin he's fired
2) Follow the instructions here and post them up in this thread: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/wa...r-receive-no-replies-from-the-wisemen.443297/
3) Fix the other issues I've identified above
4) For WOT tuning help, capture a couple logs of 3rd gear pull from ~2,500rpm to redline and post them up. Ensure you're capturing the correct values. See here for what values to capture: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/list-of-values-to-log.444831/

Or...

Go here and find someone to do all of the above for you: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forum/freelancer-products-services.225/

Just know, any good tuner will require you to do all of the same things we are already asking you to do above, so, you might as well just do them and let us help you for free. Your call.

GST with PSI, thanks again.

#1, No boost, vacuum or exhaust leaks.
#2, using stock cam gears, and a stock CAS for a 98. All timing marks line up perfectly.
#3, I will verify base timing, with a light, on Memorial day,
#4, Spark plugs/wires/coil pack's are new, and I gapped my plugs to .025 because I was getting spark blow out. Gapped them down to .025 runs much better.
#5, The engine has close to 9700 miles on it, and a compression test showed 180psi over all 4 cylinders..
#6, I got my ISC set to "30", and since posting on DSM Tuners, my tps voltage is reading .63 volts. I adjusted the BISS screw, and installed a new o-ring. Idle seems alright.
#7, IM running Wiseco 1400hp 9:1, .040 overbore, forged pistons.
#8, All of my wiring is, A-Okay. I'm certain on that. No Gremlins.
#9, There are currently, Zero CEL/DTC codes pending, or being displayed
#10, ECM Link is seeing 14.5volts while cruising, no flickering, no amps, Optima red top battery.
#11, I'm running 1120cc FIC injectors, with base fuel pressure set to 43.5 via a Fuel Lab regulator, and plumbing kit.
#12, Using an AEM wideband, and its values are being logged in ECM Link. It seems accurate, but has never been calibrated.
#13, IM using 100% 93octane pump gas (Sunoco)
#14, I have watched the ECM Link "How To" video's, and that's how I adjusted my TPS. I sort of follow along. Also how I got my wideband logged.

I do want to know (GST with PSI) if my deadtime should be 330, what would global % be, or is that automatically calculated once you enter fuel pressure, and injector cc's? I havn't messed
with that since I got ECM Link in 2010. If I need to enter a global percentage, what would that be. _And_, is there a way I can "Start everything from scratch" via DSM Link? Like a master reset,
or do I manually have to just zero everything out? Not that I would mind doing so, it's just that I'm not really familiar with the interface, and wouldn't want to forget something.

I seriously want to tune this, with the help of the community. Hey, I give computer programming advice to people all the time, why not..
I will get a WOT 3rd gear pull from 2500RPM to 7000RPM tomorrow.

Apology's, it rained all day yesterday. I'm posting (2) logs, the first was 3rd gear from 2500RPM until 5something and the CEL tripped. The second log, I tried getting on an on-ramp, in 2nd I floored it, and the CEL tripped again. This is all after zeroing the MAF Comp table, and Timing table. I disabled the FPS settings. Something is wrong, I don't want to blow up my engine.

a quick question... I zeroed the MAF and Timing sliders, disabled FPS with the key on, but not running, and they were then saved to the ECU. Next I just turn the key to ON the engine started.. was I too turn the ignition OFF, then back on, or were they saved?????

The only thing wrong at this point is nothing is really setup properly. As long as you lift when the CEL turns on, it will be ok. I think at this point since you zeroed the sliders, you should start on the idle and make it good. Then, do the cruise and then the WOT stuff. Just like the links say. It will give you peace of mind as well as a good foundation, thats where it all starts(including the learning what things effect and where things are). And I'm fairly certain anything in the ECU Config section can be changed without having to have the car off. You will have to change the MAFComp while the car is running for idle tuning. Only the Direct Access stuff the car has to be off and the key in the ON position.

I've uploaded 2 log files that should get you at least operating safely.

DA tables:

I've leaned your fuel table out to 11.0:1.

I've swapped your timing tables out with an Evo 8 table for the time being. The Evo 8 tables are super conservative, and should allow you to do pulls and screw with the tune without having to worry about blowing anything up. Once we get your AFRs dialed in better, we can start adding timing.


Settings:

I made quite a few changes here. On average, your AFRs are tracking nearly 20% lean (according to WBFactor) compared to your AFRatioEst. So, I bumped your global fuel a bit, and also tweaked your MAF. This is by no means the final solution, but these changes should at least allow you to make a full WOT pull without netting tons of knock. I also bumped your deadtime way back down to where it should be.

Download the DA table and settings, and then upload them to your ECMlink. Then, go do another pull. Again, if the car knocks, get out of it, lower the boost, and do another pull. Repeat this process until you can go WOT from ~2500rpm to redline. I literally do not care if your car is on 10lbs of boost in the end...I can do more with a complete WOT log than I can with what you're currently posting up.


What's your current ignition setup? What plugs are you running, what heat range are they, and what are they gapped at?

Brett:
I'm running 2 new coil packs (~10k miles on them), NGK BR8ES plugs gapped to .025, and a good set of Magnacore 8.5MM wires.

I'm attaching a log of me starting my car with the 2 settings, and direct access changes you made. I does start but idles rough, barely wants to rev, but sort of does... while it's trying to idle, my wideband gauge is reading extremely lean. I hope I uploaded them correctly. FILE/OPEN/(filename) and double click. Then I saved to ECU. Thank You!

I'm running ECM Link v3. Is there a firmware upgrade, or something I don't have up to date??

Bump your global fuel back to -61. Nothing else I changed should affect idle, except for deadtime, which is right on according to ECMlink's wiki. I see no reason it should be set to 630 unless your have an injector spec sheet that specifies that.

You could also try your previous global fuel setting, -59.4.

And no, your ECMlink version is up to date (v3.29.64)

Edit:
I did bump your idle back to 950rpm, where you had it at 1000rpm. You can change it back and see if that helps as well. But, if your idle is set to 1000 just so the car will run, you need to make some manual adjustments

Idle is fine at 1kRPM. Brett, I'm not quite sure what you did, but I was able to run 22psi in 3rd gear, WOT until I was going well over 100 MPH. Even in 2nd, 4th... the CEL is not tripping. I know you asked for a ~2500rpm to redline, but it was kind of wet out, so I believe I got it near 6k RPM. It runs BEAUTIFUL!! Ohhhh my.. NO CEL!, alright.. *rant over* here's a log. Hard to navigate a dim screened notebook, while driving at night.

-Thank You!!

I forgot to mention. It would not idle or rev right.. I put 620 for dead time, and -59.4% global, and it starts right up, revs freely... but I'm sure there's a reason. The first set of injectors I bought were PTE 680
s, and ECM Tuning's WIKI tells what dead time is for those, and PTE 1000's.. and it worked.. so when I got these 1120's, I went straight to ECM Tuning, but no dice in having the engine operate..

GST with PSI,
I'm developing an idle surge. But idle usually sits right where I have it set. Then when it gets to ~195F it wants to stay right at 2kRPM. If I rev it to 4kRPM it will come back to where it's supposed to be.
But lately, it will sit at 1k, raise to 1500, then fall back to 1k.. and idle will cycle by that means.. I just had the ECU into ECMTuning for repair work, and AFAIK, the drivers for the ISC motor are functioning.
I have a complete throttle body, that was rebuilt, from my old TSi, imma try to swap them out. I know this isn't really ECMLink related, but I cannot get my ISCPos below 40. And my cooling fans are wired to come on the entire duration the car is running, via Link. I read the Entire IDLE SURGE write-up, and it was almost, Erie to read the authors symptoms are exactly like mine.

In a nutshell, possibly the ECMLink wiki for my injectors dead time are right, but because my BISS screw, and ISC motor aren't jiving, they fall short..

stiggity99 said:

Idle is fine at 1kRPM. Brett, I'm not quite sure what you did, but I was able to run 22psi in 3rd gear, WOT until I was going well over 100 MPH. Even in 2nd, 4th... the CEL is not tripping. I know you asked for a ~2500rpm to redline, but it was kind of wet out, so I believe I got it near 6k RPM. It runs BEAUTIFUL!! Ohhhh my.. NO CEL!, alright.. *rant over* here's a log. Hard to navigate a dim screened notebook, while driving at night.

-Thank You!!

Click to expand...

You didn't actually got WOT until almost 4k RPM. You need to go WOT at around 2,500 RPM all the way to redline. Again, I can't do a whole lot with the data in your logs unless I can get a good sample.

Your WB and AFRatioEst are tracking much better with the adjustments I made to your MAF. I'd leave the MAF sliders alone until you get a decent log and I can dial it in better.

Your AFRs are still way too rich. Why didn't you load the fuel table I gave you? Same thing with the timing table, why didn't you load the one I gave you? The timing table you have will work, but the one I gave you is more conservative, and will give you a wider margin of error when you're tuning the car.

Brett, while I was connected to my ECU, I clicked FILE, then OPEN, and I selected the .edm file, then FILE, OPEN, then the .ecm file, then SAVED. Do I have to load each one separately, then click SAVE?
You said you gave me a fuel and timing table? I downloaded 2 files, .EDM and .ECM. that's it? I'm new at this, could you explain the method of using the 2 files you sent?

After you download the file, find it and open the file called .eda in ECMlink. In the ECMlink application, go to file ---> open ---> browse to the .eda file

Once it's open in ECMlink, look at the bottom left of the screen, and click "Copy all to ECU". In order for this to work, you need to be connected to ECMlink with the key ON and the car NOT running.

To verify it worked, close your Direct Access tab and reopen it. If the values saved, they'll now be there.

Thanks for understanding. yeah, the last time I opened them, just clicked SAVE, not "Copy All To ECU" now under WOT I see 11.0 11.1, etc.. and it pulls nice. Sorry for the lame log file. If it wasn't raining right now, i'd grab another.. as soon as the roads dry, ill get the log. Again, thanks.

OK. When you get a good log post it up and I'll take a look.

are my injector duty cycles too high? One would think 1120cc injectors should max out my turbo..
Monday I'm having my radiator flushed, and installing a rebuilt throttle body. But, I Will get your 3rd gear 2400-RedLine log.

Couldn't say one way or another on your IDCs. I've yet to see a good 3rd gear pull log.

Your deadtime is set super high, although that has little effect at WOT.