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15psi on 16g. Feel the difference from T25?

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Chris_Sag

10+ Year Contributor
102
0
Sep 8, 2010
Bergen, Florida
Hi, just upgrade my t25 to a 16g after rebuilding my engine. The rebuild costed me so mutch that more upgrades have to wait. So im planing on running around 15-16psi on the 16g on stock fuel system and smic. "keep it safe"?

Could i expect my car to be stronger than with the T25? Or is 15psi to low for the 16g?

My goals is not to high but i hope i can feel the difference until i can afford a datalogger injectors fmic ect..
 
I got a stock 91 talon ran 15psi on the 14b switched to a big 16g still ran 15psi and still lost to my buddies subie.... man that sucks! i didn't really notice a big differance. everything was stock on the car except the turbo and it had probably 1000km on it with the new turbo and no1 cyl let go compression was down to 60.
so ya i would either get some injectors that will work with the stock set up or get a good pump and regulator.people run 12.s on stock injectors(probably with a meth kit)but they say this can be done.
 
I got a stock 91 talon ran 15psi on the 14b switched to a big 16g still ran 15psi and still lost to my buddies subie.... man that sucks! i didn't really notice a big differance. everything was stock on the car except the turbo and it had probably 1000km on it with the new turbo and no1 cyl let go compression was down to 60.
so ya i would either get some injectors that will work with the stock set up or get a good pump and regulator.people run 12.s on stock injectors(probably with a meth kit)but they say this can be done.

when my 2g tsi was stock i pulled on a wrx. it was close though:hellyeah:
 
I just recently went from a t25 to evo 16g and i can def tell a big differnce i still need to upgrade my injectors with the evo560cc and fuel pump a walbro 190 because im getting like aback fire at high rpms
 
I just recently went from a t25 to evo 16g and i can def tell a big differnce i still need to upgrade my injectors with the evo560cc and fuel pump a walbro 190 because im getting like aback fire at high rpms

Aaaaaaand what will you be tuning with?
 
You could install a wideband, like an LC-1 and a flashed ECU.
I guess eventually depending on your mods you could go to DSMlink, but at least you can start with that. Irregardless, its always a good idea to have a Wideband installed.
 
Now i have adjusted my wastegate to minimum, but the boost wont go under 16psi and it spikes 20psi when kick down, its a AT? Not good? Pulls hard as hell but i will not melt my engine.
But should i not reach the fuel cut if i run out my fuel system? With the old engine I was bother running pig rich for some reason... Is it possible that i gets enough fuel?
 
15psi will pull much harder on the 16g than the T25. 15psi on a 16g is like 19 on a T25 for example.

This is just wrong. 15 psi is not like 19psi...try not to post your made up facts. Its misleading to new people. The 16g flows much more air than the t25, specifically in higher rpms. The t25 falls on its face pretty quickly and begins to lose efficiancy at a higher psi. I havent meet to many people in my 10 years of dsm experiance, that run 19 psi on a t25...because its pointless and a crappy "powerband" at that.

To the op, i ran 15 psi on a b16g with hks 264s. I did this on a stock fuel system with a rewire and had 0 knock. Ran it like that for 3 years with no problems. Im not telling you to try it, but if you have a way of monitoring knock/fuel at all times start low and see what works.
 
Thank you mr! It seems like it works great have driven around a couple of days now but for all I am konwing it could be knocking like hell.. But it feels and pulls great!
 
since you just started, get Link. You can get V3 Lite, an older version, or even a bootleg version for cheap. The issue will come with getting an eprom ecu. But link will basically give you all you need for tuning, including a logger. It will even give you alot of room to grow in the future. Just buck up and get Link.

For your 16g, I might go with a little bigger injectors if you havent bought them yet. I want to say that you might be maxing them Evos out at around 20-22psi or so. I know I got a wally 190 in my 2g with no FPR and no issues even on stock tune.
 
I was at 80% idc at 15psi on my evo3 16g with 680s if i remember right. So if you plan on getting a bigger turbo or pushing your 16g at all i would say to get a bigger injector to begin with. Why have to buy injectors twice. IF you have something to tune with that is
 
I wont push my 16g at all the problem is that i couldnt adjust the wastegate any lower than 16psi, with spike to around 20:S
 
^ Chris you still need to fill out your car profile.

Its possible that investing in a new turbo elbow could help the WG bleed off the boost. but i cant say for sure because your profile isnt filled out and i have no idea whats done to your car other than the 16g.

the best investment would probably be getting a used version of dsmlink. there is a V 2.5 for sale in the classifieds for cheap. then you can invest a few bucks in injectors and have your car run properly on that turbo. anything else will just be a desperate attempt to keep the boost low enough for your tiny injectors. upgrade the injectors and get a tuning device and you can actually use all that bottled up power.
 
Dont know what have been done to the car in the past since it was used imported form US to Norway. The engine did i get from a scrapyard so i dont know a lot a but the past there either. But everything looks stock to me, the 16g was on the engine when i bought it. The only thing i did was to mount a new recycle bov 3" exahaust , prothane engine mounts fired it up and drive. So i dont know mutch about the history, only thing i know was that i went to the dyno with the old engine (T25) it was running pig rich for some reason..
 
When i had it on the dyno it was hooked up to all sorts of loggers.. But this was not cheap..:( 230bucks for each hour in norway:S

Is it possible for me to just get bigger injectors 750cc or something put it in and run safe again? Or do i need some sort of tuning device? As you see i dont know mutch about that stuff. Always had the local dyno to help me but no im short of money, after buying a house..
 
im new at this to but its safe to get a logger so you can monitor your motor myself im going to be going with ecmlink when tax time comes around and an aem uego wideband so i can log with ecmlink and monitor my air-fuel with my aem wideband,iv heard nothing but good things about those 2 systems so id suggest those or either a innovative 1lc wideband and call it good for now untillyou plan on doing more serious upgrades, oh and im also going with a set of 680cc injectors so i dont starve my motor so id suggest useing 680 cc injectors or 750s for now

sorry if i got alittle redundent its late where im at and im alittle tierd :p
 
Choose your injectors completely on how much you plan on boosting, and look into before hand what fuel you want to run (pump, race, e85). You'll save money by not re buying parts.
 
I ran 19psi on a evo3 16g all day with only a 3000gt fuel pump, no problems, with a turbo xs boost controller, i left the factory boost solenoid electrical part plugged in , but took the vacuum hoses off and had the turbo xs boost controller from waste gate on the bottom fitting and the upper fitting hooked up to the intake manifold.

There should be a write up on a vacuum diagram for manual boost control if you use the search tool.

edit: everything else in the fuel system was still factory except the 3000gt fuel pump. I did install a brand new oem fuel filter though. thats always good to change when u dont know how old it is and also change your spark plugs to a new set of bpr7es, i had my plugs gapped at .028 and had good results.

hope this helps.


If you are using the vacuum port on the intake manifold that controls the blow off valve to also supply your pressure source for your waste gate that is not good way to hook that up. That blow off valve vacuum port is basically a ported vacuum. What that means is it's signal to the blow off valve is controlled by the position of the throttle plate. I've used it for a short time until I got my J-pipe properly ported for a vacuum line, but it's not a proper way to hook that up so the waste gate works properly.

The waste gate and BOV have different operational parameters and need to be able to work independently of one another.
 
LC-1 or AEM UEGO (Just a WIDEBAND period), either a standalone or piggyback. You can push boost all day but well it runs depends on the tune
 
I have a 95 talon tsi completely stock my turbo went out and i dont have any extra money for supporting mods but i have been looking at the big 16g turbo since its a direct bolt up from what ive read will it be safe to drive the car this way with the stock waste gate please let me know and if im wrong about anything im new to the turbo world
 
i dont have any extra money for supporting mods but i have been looking at the big 16g turbo

If you don't have money for supporting mods you shouldn't be looking to upgrade your turbo. MHI Big 16G = $250-350, 16G install kit for a 2G = $200-250. That's not including critical supporting mods.

Replacement T25 = $100-150.
 
Isn't someone rebuilding the T28s now? I thought I just seen an announcement somewhere that a fellow DSMer is rebuilding some T28s. I just don't remember where I seen it. Not sure if it was on here or FB.

T28 might be a good option for him. should be an easy bolt on swap for him without having to worry about a lot of the other stuff right now. and, its supposedly comparable to a small 16g.
 
I havent been able to find any t25 turbos for that price the local dealership wants $1600 for one i just need to find one that will be a direct bolt up to my stock manifold so i can get the car on the road agian i cant rebuild mine because the turbo housing was hit by the shaft
 
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