Simonsaysr1
Proven Member
- 135
- 11
- Jan 30, 2016
-
Rocky mount,
North_Carolina
So I've tried to mess with my 2g and it's getting to be quite irritating. My clutch didn't seem to want to release, it just seems to stay engaged . so I've tried alot.
I've bought a
-New OEM master and slave cylinder
-New shifter bushings
-new Act pp and clutch kit
-Resurfaced and stepped flywheel to .610
-new rubber fork boot. (The fork sits towards the driver half of the window, then extends atleast 3/4 of an inch or so with the clutch pressed .
-Russell speed bleeder valve fitting
-New fluid bled atleast 30 times . used a whole bottle and a half
-new pivot ball shimmed
It doesnt leak anywhere I'm getting the fork to stay in place when the clutch pedal is pressed in
I've adjusted the pedal everywhere
And you can feel the pp resistance..
So I had problems quick shifting it when I first bought it. There was always a huge pause in between gears to shift it. It seemed to get picker and then it started crunching. Then wouldn't even go into first or reverse ,if I try now. it grinds with enough force it makes me cringe a bit inside every time. And it's completely locked out of all the other gears. But when the engines off it shifts fine. I have slight input shaft play but is an 1/8th of an inch to much side to side play . it's got a fair amount of in and out play too ,somewhere around 1/4 inch. The guy I bought the car from had a f5m31. Can I rebuild with f5m33 internals. What's the difference in the series other than a double syncro second. Is my trans bad or am I having problems elsewhere? Are my bearings screwed along with my non turbo syncros. Any insight?
I've bought a
-New OEM master and slave cylinder
-New shifter bushings
-new Act pp and clutch kit
-Resurfaced and stepped flywheel to .610
-new rubber fork boot. (The fork sits towards the driver half of the window, then extends atleast 3/4 of an inch or so with the clutch pressed .
-Russell speed bleeder valve fitting
-New fluid bled atleast 30 times . used a whole bottle and a half
-new pivot ball shimmed
It doesnt leak anywhere I'm getting the fork to stay in place when the clutch pedal is pressed in
I've adjusted the pedal everywhere
And you can feel the pp resistance..
So I had problems quick shifting it when I first bought it. There was always a huge pause in between gears to shift it. It seemed to get picker and then it started crunching. Then wouldn't even go into first or reverse ,if I try now. it grinds with enough force it makes me cringe a bit inside every time. And it's completely locked out of all the other gears. But when the engines off it shifts fine. I have slight input shaft play but is an 1/8th of an inch to much side to side play . it's got a fair amount of in and out play too ,somewhere around 1/4 inch. The guy I bought the car from had a f5m31. Can I rebuild with f5m33 internals. What's the difference in the series other than a double syncro second. Is my trans bad or am I having problems elsewhere? Are my bearings screwed along with my non turbo syncros. Any insight?