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2G 97 TSI AWD blue smoke problem

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Samusisback

Proven Member
59
1
Apr 21, 2016
Joliette, QC_Canada
I think I know why it smoke blue...i think its the turbo that drink up the oil. that why the more i give the padal the more blue smoke is being throw by the exaust. The car was fine when i bougth it. The owner told me taht the turbo was stock but it was changed for a brand new one and drove about 5000 km with it...it was set manualy at low boost on purpose he said to give it time to...i dont know how to say it properly in english...but to get some use before giving it some boost. He told me that normaly it should be ready to handle some more. so i bougth the car and drive it home open the hood and crank the boost from 14 psi to 17-18 as the boost gauge is saying to me. The car was good aLOL winter but now it like im driving a 2 stroke engine. so I'm wondering if it's because i ask too much out of the turbo by asking 17-18 psi (if my aftermarket boost gauge is working properly) and is the turbo really need to have some usage before cranking him up so i dont do the same mistake twice when i put my BIG 16G in the car. Thank you
 
So what are you using to tune the car? Check the turbo for shaft play and what kind of turbo is it? If it's a t-25 those won't last long at all at 18psi. There's no need to break in a turbo like the guy claims he was doing LOL. It will either make boost and work right or it won't. Is there any oil in the intake track? Could be blow-by or valve stem seals. There's a few things it could be so you have to start ruling things out.
 
there is no ecu tuning for the car but im using a manual boost controler that was instaled by the previous owner. he clain to have put in the car an oem turbo so if on a 97 TSI AWD talon it's a t-25 then yes it is and ok it might be me who have boosted the turbo too much then. i will check for shaft play but i dont know how to check if there is oil in the intake track or what exactly is the valve stem seal...it's my friend who is good with engine me i'm good at body work. I'm bringing in to the garage today for a compression test and maybe oil leak test
 
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Ok so running the car with stock fuel system and no way to tune with that high of boost is a bad idea bro. You can hit fuel cut real easy that way and run to lean which makes the exhaust way hotter. Which is not a good thing for your engine or turbo. To check for shaft play take the intake tube off the turbo inlet. Then with your fingers grab the bolt holding the compressor wheel on. You want to wiggle it up and down and In and out if you can. There should be minimal play in all directions. If you feel a lot of in and out that's not good, and your thrust plate is probably damaged. If there's to much up and down the compressor or turbine wheel could make contact and cause damage. It also could just be a bad oil seal in the turbo. Also with the intake off take a look at the compressor wheel for damage. If you can take some pics and post for us to see. If it's not the turbo and bad blow-by it could be the pcv valve is bad. You would want to take the intercooler pipes off and check them for oil inside. The valve stem seals are what seal your valves in your head and keep them from leaking oil into the combustion chamber. So if the are leaking bad they can dump oil right into the exhaust. I would start by checking the turbo and also turn the boost back to stock till you have proper fuel system and a way to tune. ;)
 
since CAD$$$ worth less than USD$$$ i cant afford right now ECM tuning kit that in cad with shipping and having my ecu get eprom if its not about a 1K$$$ so i will turn it down and start cheking those after the compression test. I do the test only to be sure that i wont have trouble from the piston and ring in the future
 
Try to find a black box ecu if yours isn't one already. You can flash them and get a cable and either ceddymod, evoscan, ecuflash. It's a cheaper option. Ya a compression test isn't a bad idea. Let us know what you get ;) check this out http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/dsm-maintenance-guide.476550/, then next under the resource tab it has 2g upgrade path. This will tell you what mods to start with and why. Really good to start seeing what it takes to build them right
 
With no tuning ecu I'd remove the aftermarket boost controller and put back the stock BCS til your ready to upgrade later T25s are maxed and with no supporting mods to handle 18psi of boost its a time bomb ready to blow up. Maintenance is pretty big here. I'd do that 1st and get check valve installed in between the intake manifold and Pvc valve that could be all it needs and no more blue smoke
 
My guess would either be the turbo is going out or valve stem seals in the head are bad and need replacing.
 
You might be looking at number of issues but if money is the issue... I would start by diagnosing the least expensive solutions first. I would check for boost leaks and plugs. But a bad tune can kill even the best built car
 
With no tuning ecu I'd remove the aftermarket boost controller and put back the stock BCS til your ready to upgrade later T25s are maxed and with no supporting mods to handle 18psi of boost its a time bomb ready to blow up. Maintenance is pretty big here. I'd do that 1st and get check valve installed in between the intake manifold and Pvc valve that could be all it needs and no more blue smoke

Im not very good at reading letter i prefer word...i dont know what is BCS and check valve installed between the intake manifold ????? What is that the only thing i heard before is the pcv valve
 
Try to find a black box ecu if yours isn't one already. You can flash them and get a cable and either ceddymod, evoscan, ecuflash. It's a cheaper option. Ya a compression test isn't a bad idea. Let us know what you get ;) check this out http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/dsm-maintenance-guide.476550/, then next under the resource tab it has 2g upgrade path. This will tell you what mods to start with and why. Really good to start seeing what it takes to build them right

I supose this is not a black box ecu so where can i find one because i saw that they were supose to have a letter at the end to know if it eprom or not but there is just number no letter
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Nope not the e you need sorry. And was only mentioning about link as there is a option to convert a non-EPROM to eprom that's all. :) Yup the T is where you would want a E. If you can find a EPROM ecu or have yours converted. I have my old keydiver chip I'm no longer using and wouldn't mind parting with for not to much.
 
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