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Not another clutch issue thread

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frankiesays

Probationary Member
9
1
Aug 4, 2012
kelowna, BC_Canada
Hello everyone I apologize in advance if this isn't the correct place to post but in still a probationary member.

So I'm having some very Werid issues with my clutch and hopping anybody has any advice thx.

1g trans awd. Brand new master, slave, fluid, bled like crazy using pedal and pushing in slave rod.

when cold clutch pedal feels good shifts fine then when the car warms up clutch will not disengage enough to put in gear, and it's gotten to the point where it will not dissengage even when cold. Pedal adjustment it all the way out, I even tried extending the clutch slave rod (put a socket over it) and clutch fork travels all the way to the side.
Can the clutch itself just be super warped? It's a stage 2 comp clutch, with a few thousand k's (driven pretty hard).
I've also heard of shimming the pivot ball but can it really wear out that fast? (Pressure plate is super heavy so may be possible)

Thanks in advance
 
Had that same issue when I bought mine. Badly worn Fidenza 4 Puck Clutch and Nuked Fidenza flywheel.
The pivot ball had even been shimmed.
A new pivot ball has diameter or .501" My old one (it was already shimmed) was .485"

Do not drive the car in it's current state. Your syncros will thank you.
I bought a Southbend Stage 2 + ACT Streelite flywheel stepped to .610 + New Fork and Ball
Stock pedal effort. Love it.

Keep us posted with pics!
 
Thanks so much for the info! It will have to wait until I'm back in town in a few weeks but I'll definitely get a new clutch combo/fork and ball. I probably need a stronger clutch anyway since I recently went to a fp red (old school)
Here's the last pic I took when it stopped going into gear, not really a dsm, Evo 1 chassis
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You killed your disk. If you are going to go with another Competition Clutch disk, go with the full ceramic sprung hub.

Did you do a bunch of missed shifts or a 2-3-2 shift?? That would be the typical cause for this failure.
 
thanks for the input, i went with 6 puck because im planning on upping my boost to about ~30psi and i dont want the clutch to worry about.
i dont remember having many missed shifts, i do like to launch it quite often tho.

ps are solid hubs really that bad? i just dont want to worry about busting the hub/springs again, and ive already accepted im going to need to build my trans for my power goals
 
thanks for the input, i went with 6 puck because im planning on upping my boost to about ~30psi and i dont want the clutch to worry about.
i dont remember having many missed shifts, i do like to launch it quite often tho.

ps are solid hubs really that bad? i just dont want to worry about busting the hub/springs again, and ive already accepted im going to need to build my trans for my power goals
I saw the transmission that came off of a car that was using a solid disk and the splines on the input shaft had been worn to a sharp point. This was on a car that only saw track use ( Bucci's Goodwill car ). I'm not sure how much better or worse it would be on a daily car but for me personally, I would never run one on a street car.
 
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