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The $400 97 Talon Awd Rescue

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I would still replace the bearings. Antifreeze has a corrosive attribute that will pit or wear down the babbit material over a short period of time while just sitting there. For the peace of mind, I would just replace them. Nothing like spending X amount of greenbacks on a freshen up just to blow a bearing and have to do a full-scale rebuild... Been there, done that. Smelt it. Felt it. Got the T-shirt. It sucked....
 
A quick test with a magnet would give you a better idea on the material.

Well its not cast as it failed the magnet test. Will be looking around to see what it is. Might try to get a better picture of it.

I would still replace the bearings. Antifreeze has a corrosive attribute that will pit or wear down the babbit material over a short period of time while just sitting there. For the peace of mind, I would just replace them. Nothing like spending X amount of greenbacks on a freshen up just to blow a bearing and have to do a full-scale rebuild... Been there, done that. Smelt it. Felt it. Got the T-shirt. It sucked....

Yeah kinda leaning that way. Going to borrow a set of engine cleaning brushes and make a mess cleaning all the passages in the system. Going to look into the oil pump. Really just want to clean it out. So we shall see. It sounds like you have been where I have been with my Firebird and we don't want to go down that hole.

As for today I got the head off the engine. Really debating this t-25. Full of milkshake. Thinking that a used 14b will be better off in the end. It also has some up and down play as well as major side to side. The blades have made contact with the housing. So may tear into it but hopes are low for it.

Next up was the injectors. I am pretty sure they are stock black 2g ones. Can anybody confirm?

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Onwards to the head. It looks and feels to have some port work. It is also a 1g cylinder head. Figured as much as the intake manifold was a 1g as well. Cams are going into the trash bin as they are rusted out. Rocker arms are also junk. A few have gotten some rust marks and the coating is gone off them. Lifters are the 3mm versions. So pretty much its to the machine shop. Going to check to make sure its flat and if so maybe some new valve guides as these have been sitting. Otherwise its ready to go. Now to find some cheap cams and maybe a set of rockers.

Bottom end looks good and turns over nicely. Just got to tear it down for a clean. Heck all of the timing belt stuff was in good shape. But going to replace the tensioner as its been sitting 7 years. Anyways looks good.

13147975_10206117585927283_1300609818_o_zpslaxitjb9.jpg

13105818_10206117586127288_1677874582_o_zpsrqcppswe.jpg

So as of now its a matter of cleaning up stuff. I need to replace every single soft line and clean all the hard lines. Its all full of a milkshake mix as well as they all are about to rip. Heck one was on the tb. Wonder if he was loosing coolant that way. So next up is parts and go from there.
 
I'm sure you know this but it's recommended to get an afpr if you go with the 255...
What kind of power levels you going to be shooting for with this bad boy? Can't remember if you stated it in your other thread.
good point the 255 will overflow your stock regulator I would go with an evo8 pump or a wally 190 unless you are planing on getting the afpr. you can find used evo 8 pumps for 40-50 bucks now days.
 
good point the 255 will overflow your stock regulator I would go with an evo8 pump or a wally 190 unless you are planing on getting the afpr. you can find used evo 8 pumps for 40-50 bucks now days.

Heck a new evo 8 pump is the same price as the 2g one. So might as well order it. Its a spectra which is decent for a pump. Skips the used pump issue.
 
I agree with blackdsmthingy.. if you already have it out and apart i would replace all bottom end bearings. As ive learned the hard way antifreeze eats the bearings. May look ok but sitting in that "milkshake" all that time isnt good and for the cost of new bearings is well worth saving the frustration of having to rebuild it twice.. just my opinion as i have also been there done that and have 2 t-shirts...LOL very nice find for the money tho.. great job on the find
 
Hopefully hasn't been mentioned yet but you can turn the key on with injectors unplugged and coil pack unplugged, remove cas and turn it by hand. This will kick the pump on... run the feed line into your catch container.
 
Hopefully hasn't been mentioned yet but you can turn the key on with injectors unplugged and coil pack unplugged, remove cas and turn it by hand. This will kick the pump on... run the feed line into your catch container.

Yep or the 2g has a nice capped of wire that if you supply it with 12v it kicks the fuel pump on. I tried this and only got a cup full of fuel before the weak line pressure died off. Since the tank had 7 gallons of gas I am pretty sure the pump is shot.
 
So played with the old fuel pump so more. I think its good. Poured some gas in a bucket and jumped the system. Well this looks like good flow and a two minute test saw no let up in flow. So for now the stock pump goes in. I think the problem was the battery I was using had lost of some its charge and was down to 9v last time. Its now at 12 and flowing fine.

 
There are numerous people on this forum who have 255 fuel pumps on stock Fuel regulators for lengthy amounts of time.
And numerous people on this forum over-run the stock FPR on a 255, it is really not a debate it was as I said a RECOMMENDATION...

OP your above post is a perfect example of the pluses of a fuel pump being rewired. The thin gauge stock wiring struggles to deliver full voltage under load. And if you do decide to get an evo pump go with a 9 or 10 pump if you can. I know you said you're going with stock for now so it's just an fyi.
You know deep down you are going to turn that thing into a beast after you get the boost addiction LOL
 
And numerous people on this forum over-run the stock FPR on a 255, it is really not a debate it was as I said a RECOMMENDATION...

OP your above post is a perfect example of the pluses of a fuel pump being rewired. The thin gauge stock wiring struggles to deliver full voltage under load. And if you do decide to get an evo pump go with a 9 or 10 pump if you can. I know you said you're going with stock for now so it's just an fyi.
You know deep down you are going to turn that thing into a beast after you get the boost addiction LOL

Yeah if I do go with a 255 I will be upgrading the regulator as well. Anyways I will be doing a rewire at some point. Good news is the stock pump is working. My budget is to get it going for the least amount of money while still doing it right. I am trying to have it going by the end of May. As for the boost levels I can't find a decent 14b so I am looking to run the t-25. I am going to tear it down tomorrow as well as check the bearings to make sure that they are stock sizes.

Boost is nice but my autox and track day toy Miata still needs tires every 6 months at least if we continue to go to nationals. Plus I have to finish this up by the spring. Mmmm lemons car.

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SWEET FIND MAN! I have a local kid that posted a 97 2gb for sale a few weeks ago but he wont come off $1200.. It's FWD automatic as well. It runs and drives but you have to shift it into neutral every time you stop in the car or it violently shakes and wants to stall out. Probably bad lockout converter or seized parts. he said the valve seals are shot too and it burns oil... Anyways I'm excited to see this thing running and driving! Great to see another guy get to work on his DSM so fast instead of letting it sit on jackstands in the garage and losing interest after 2 weeks.... Keep up the good work!
 
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/rebuilt-14b-turbo.502259/
Did you see this one? ^^^ If the t25 ends up being junk...
Nothing wrong with your plan btw.

I did. Its not a bad price but missing the exhaust side. Right now I found a few more thing the car needs. So trying to keep the car in budget. Tearing the t-25 down tomorrow.

SWEET FIND MAN! I have a local kid that posted a 97 2gb for sale a few weeks ago but he wont come off $1200.. It's FWD automatic as well. It runs and drives but you have to shift it into neutral every time you stop in the car or it violently shakes and wants to stall out. Probably bad lockout converter or seized parts. he said the valve seals are shot too and it burns oil... Anyways I'm excited to see this thing running and driving! Great to see another guy get to work on his DSM so fast instead of letting it sit on jackstands in the garage and losing interest after 2 weeks.... Keep up the good work!

Thanks It has been fun so far. Now its time to spend the money....we will see where it goes.


Today was fun. Got to tear down the oil pump and gasket scrap for a good hour. Oil pump is now clean and looks good. Its still needing some brushing and a final pack of grease. But otherwise I will double check the clearances with a feeler gauge just to make sure. Otherwise its ready to be bolted on.

Onto the bottom end. Got some of the bearings off. New bearings will be going in. Some light trash has gone threw this motor. I can see it in the bearings and in the head journals. Its not bad in the head buy you can see it. Found out the crank has been turned. Was hoping it was std but its .25mm. Are these cranks still hardened at this level. ACL has race bearings in the .25mm. I know from Miata land they only make STD as the hardened coating is only on the top level.

Rod Bearing

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Main

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Good news the crank looks great. Not going to polish as it does not need it. So just got to actually order those parts.

Onto some other things. Had the Starter and Altenator tested. Starter passed with flying colors. Altenator on the other hand is dead. So looking into either a Galant one or a Saturn one. Also tried to clean the radiator some. Its so nasty inside that its going in the scrap pile. Not going to do all this work only to have more gunk keep coming out of it. That plus it could clog up and I would be back to square one. So that is a decision of stock rad for $60 for a all aluminum one for $108. Budget says the $60 but I am leaning towards one to keep everything cool. Also found the inside of the coolant pipe is really really rusty. Going to try to clean it but I have a feeling its going in scrap pile as well.

Tomorrow I try to get the turbo off the manifold. Map gas don't fail me now. Onward and upwards to get a parts list together for Monday.
 
Well project was is on a slight hold. Heading out of town for a week or so and ended up picking up a miata parts car to steal the engine out for my Miata. Hopefully get 10hp back over the current motor. That and the miata needs a throw out bearing so I will be swapping in the transmission that has been waiting for it.
 
Well more delays. Canada trip was done later. On the way back I decided to see some other family and messed my knee up dirt biking. May have torn an acl. Car is still there but I can't even stand let alone walk off crutches. Who knows if I'll get surgury but man this sucks. First major injury with major pain. We will see how the next week goes. Still not home as driving 10 mins today made my knee flair up. Don't know if I could make the 8 hour trip without being in pain.
 
Well here is the update. Ended up going threw acl reconstruction surgery. Looking at a couple months before I can do heavy lifting and stuff. Also with some other stuff budget is back to zero.

I did take the manifold off the turbo. Got to use a big hammer now to separate it from the exhaust housing. Looks like it could be rebuilt. Its not the greatest but it will work. So one day when I can get going again I will do that. Can't drive for a couple more weeks. Sucks that its over a month. Manifold has a huge crack in it so that will need to be repaired as well. How are those $80 ebay manifolds? Figure the stock one would be better but we will see if it can be saved. Cracked on both the inside and outside.

That being said I may list the car for sale to someone who can finish it. Maybe trade it off. I am up in the air on this but could use the cash or even a running car. Got to decide what to do. This acl surgery has left me with no ambition to do stuff.
 
Hang in there man, I would look in the classified for a used mani or go FP mani route over an ebay mani but that's just me... You can also look at http://millerimportparts.com/ member name: stangmurdera on here, pretty reasonable with pricing and shipping.

I slapped the car up for sale on some local facebook groups. No real bites other than some guys want to part it out. Not going to do that. I have looked at Miller as well. Its funny as we bought his old tire machine about 6 months ago. Not going to move on the price and I may just let the car sit and see what happens. Guess we see how it goes.
 
Let me see if I have the manifold for mine. If I do, you can have it. Hate to see a project get dumped just because of that.
 
Let me see if I have the manifold for mine. If I do, you can have it. Hate to see a project get dumped just because of that.

Not worried about the manifold. The problem is me an my acl recovery. Will play it by year but right now just working on getting walking again. Not even allowed to drive at this time. See how this week and next go.

Tho if you have a manifold I might be willing to buy it off you.
 
I understand. Fell off a dirtbike last week myself. Didn't break anything, but I sure as hell don't want to get down and work on anything. Good luck with a quick recovery man.
 
I understand. Fell off a dirtbike last week myself. Didn't break anything, but I sure as hell don't want to get down and work on anything. Good luck with a quick recovery man.

Yeah its not fun. I did some riding years ago and only laid it down once. Went out this year and in 5 mins tore my acl. I guess go big and then sit on a couch for a couple months.
 
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