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2G Clutch disk siezed on input shaft

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A Sharp

Proven Member
158
13
Nov 18, 2013
Platteville, Wisconsin
So I pulled the engine and trans out of my 2g FWD. I unbolted the bell housing from the block and got about 1/2" of separation between the two, but nothing more. I have pounded and pried on the trans but it just wouldn't budge any farther.

Next I tired Jafro's method, which is to unbolt the pressure plate from the flywheel by sticking a small wrench through the clutch fork hole. This also failed because the previous owner tightened the pressure plate bolts with an absurd amount of torque. I was keeping the engine still via the crank pulley bolt, but it broke loose before the pressure plate bolt! What the hell.

Does anyone have any ideas? Maybe ideas for how to hold the rotating assembly in place other than the crank pulley bolt?

Thanks
 
So I pulled the engine and trans out of my 2g FWD. I unbolted the bell housing from the block and got about 1/2" of separation between the two, but nothing more. I have pounded and pried on the trans but it just wouldn't budge any farther.

Next I tired Jafro's method, which is to unbolt the pressure plate from the flywheel by sticking a small wrench through the clutch fork hole. This also failed because the previous owner tightened the pressure plate bolts with an absurd amount of torque. I was keeping the engine still via the crank pulley bolt, but it broke loose before the pressure plate bolt! What the hell.

Does anyone have any ideas? Maybe ideas for how to hold the rotating assembly in place other than the crank pulley bolt?

Thanks

I had this issue not a month ago: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/transmission-stuck-not-coming-out.502303/

Just to be clear, we're talking about the big bolt in the middle of the crank pulley correct? It would require a half inch extension to hold or whatever size that bolt is. (I think 19mm?) I've never had it come loose even with holding 100 Ft. lb flywheel bolts.

My only suggestion I can think of is using an impact gun to tighten the crankshaft bolt again and trying the pressure plate bolts again. Probably a stupid question but are you sure you're loosening and not tightening the PP bolts? Mine came off pretty easy even with red loc tite on them.
 
Thanks for the replies. Yes, I was referring to the big half inch drive bolt that is supposed to be torqued to over 100 ft-lb. I don't think it was actually that tight, but it was still on there damn good.

Unfortunately, I am a hand tool-only peasant haha, so the impact gun is a no go.

Screw driver in the flywheel teeth it is!
 
Well I guess I'm going to need to put together a better tool, cause I just bent the one I was using :banghead:. Those PP bolts are unbelievably tight.

I also found a likely cause for the seized disk. I just realized that there was no flywheel inspection cover installed :ohdamn:. This allowed all the corrosive wintry goodness of Wisconsin to have easy access to the inside of my bell housing. The more I work on this car, the more I realize that the previous owner was a total hack. He even forgot to install the very important transmission bolt that is located farthest to the rear of the engine. Without it, the clamping force of the clutch is totally uneven.

Don't over tighten the crank bolt it breaks the timing sprocket when you do

^^^You must have really been going for it LOL.
 
Try soaking it with pb blaster over night. Try the crank bolt again and wedging a breaker bar on the ground or subframe to stop it from rotating. Or have someone hold it for you ;) My long mountain wrenches would work perfect to help break the pp bolts. Hands down my favorite wrenches saved my butt so many times.
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Try soaking it with pb blaster over night. Try the crank bolt again and wedging a breaker bar on the ground or subframe to stop it from rotating. Or have someone hold it for you ;) My long mountain wrenches would work perfect to help break the pp bolts. Hands down my favorite wrenches saved my butt so many times.
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Have you actually tried pulling the PP bolts with these trough the inspection space? It's super tight in there.
 
If theyre that tight somebody used loctite. You can't get a bolt that small that tight. You might apply a little heat through the hole first.
 
Well I got 'em off and here's what I did:

First I soaked each bolt in penetrating oil. Then I rotated the flywheel to an appropriate position and slid a 6mm allen wrench in between the flywheel teeth (this worked great for holding it in place). At this point, I grabbed one of those turd quality 1/4 inch drive ratchets and a 12mm socket from a cheap tool kit. I didn't want to sacrifice any of my good wrenches to make a tool. Anyhow, the little ratchet squeezed through the hole, I slapped a big ol' pipe on it, and broke those bolts loose nice and easy.

The first tool I was using just couldn't hold up to the torque necessary to break those bolts free. In addition to bending the original tool, I ended up completely stripping it out.

Thanks for the suggestions guys. They definitely kept me motivated
 
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