Which port of the throttle body are u using? Try getting a T fitting and running the boost gauge vacuum line directly off the manifold from a plenum port.

Sounds like there's some foreign material on your oil drain flange that might be causing a leak, or the drain itself is broken/cracked.

So we fixed the return line leak but now there is a new headache. Yesterday I was at 17 for boost, today it won't go over 5. Officially stumped as to what changed because we did nothing other than fix the oil leak.

So what have you checked?

We have checked the gauge by replacing it with a new, still reads the same as the old. We also adjusted the waste gate actuator arm because it was hitting the compressor housing. My husband is now checking hoses to make sure nothing slipped off.

tametalon92 said:

Which port of the throttle body are u using? Try getting a T fitting and running the boost gauge vacuum line directly off the manifold from a plenum port.

Sounds like there's some foreign material on your oil drain flange that might be causing a leak, or the drain itself is broken/cracked.

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We are now reading properly, thank you!

Boost leak test!! Probably blew a coupler

This car is causing to many headaches and it isn't even on the road yet, oye!

New question: timing related; when adjusting the cam sensor and it's at top dead center, which way advances or retards it? Concerned we may be a tooth off on cam timing?

We now make 10 psi but the car idles rough and has a cut at about 6 psi now.

The cam sensor has nothing to do with mechanical timing. What are you asking?

pauleyman said:

The cam sensor has nothing to do with mechanical timing. What are you asking?

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It's a 6 bolt in a 2g, the cam sensor is wired with the crank sensor to fool my ecu. So the cam sensor retards/advances my cam signal, which then changes the ignition timing readout to the ecm. So we are trying to figure out which direction of the cam retards/advances it. The car isn't running as well as it should and it seems to have hiccups while boosting. So verifying the cam sensor is doing what we think it is

Have you don't a boost leak test yet? I wouldn't do anything else till you do. Also why not hook up a timing lite and find out

We did do a timing light. We have to have the cam sensor fully advanced to run the car but if we even slightly retard it, it will run horribly.

The car runs and drives but it seems "off" yet. Really wish someone local knew anything about my swap and we're willing to look at it. Would make this way easier

I think there are a few DSM/EVO shops around Wisconsin. I think TMZ Performance is around there, something you could search. Not sure if they would be willing to look at it for you. If you did a boost leak test like suggested above, next step would be to check mechanical timing. I would also scan for codes if you have a CEL on.

There is a Mitsubishi dealer a town over but I'm leary because they only deal with new and not older cars. As far as a leak test, I would have to find someone who knew how to do it. My husband won be able to work on my car for at least a week now.

Would a leak test point me towards a solution? I make and hold boost, I just don't make full boost until about 4500 rpm. I sit around 5psi before than but I don't hit 10 til it's almost time for the next gear.

96talonchick said:

It's a 6 bolt in a 2g, the cam sensor is wired with the crank sensor to fool my ecu. So the cam sensor retards/advances my cam signal, which then changes the ignition timing readout to the ecm. So we are trying to figure out which direction of the cam retards/advances it. The car isn't running as well as it should and it seems to have hiccups while boosting. So verifying the cam sensor is doing what we think it is

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I get that part but you stated you are wondering if you're a tooth off. If you want to verify take the covers off and look. If you're having to turn the cam sensor to one extreme end to get the car to run then I'd say you're probably right and your mechanical timing is off.