yeah I don't understand why people say 92 could have either 6 bolt or 7 bolt. The information in CAPS is about BUILD date, not model date. To get all the dealers stocked with cars in the fall when do you think they start buiding them? Likely the spring which makes sense that all the parts switch over in April. This is educated speculation but I would guess they started building 93 MODEL year cars in April 92. If there are examples of 7 bolt MODEL year 1992 cars I've yet to see one.

4e3ct64u7ne008393, but it's a 92, unless that tells us month, or you know what production # they started using 7 bolts I don't see how you could know....

Well now that I know the measured difference with the filter housing, it is a 6 bolt after all. 1.25" for 7 bolt, 1.875 for 6 bolt. On a side note, God I hate having all these damn leaks. And on the subject of 6 bolt vs 7 bolt, what is the stock oil and coolant feed locations for each? My oil is fed from the head on the left side, my coolant on the front Ts into the oil cooler line going to the water pipe, while the rear water line goes to the tstat housing. Not sure if that is the setup it should have or not. Other oil cooler line goes to tstat housing.

Hrm... didn't consider it could have been an Eagle VIN. Just so happens that one doesn't pull up in CAPS. Still, there are other ways but looks like you've got it figured.

Paul -- we've been over this before, they do exist: 1992 7 bolt to 1992 6 bolt engine swap

Turbo oil feed is from the head. On a 1G, the turbo and oil cooler are fed coolant from separate ports on the thermostat housing. They return to different ports on the water pipe. Use of a T for a feed is a work-around for not having matching components for your system, including thermostat housing, water pipe, and oil filter housing.

The 2G fed the turbo oil from the OFH. It was fed coolant from the block and returned to the water pipe. When using the 2G components with a 1G block, a new feed for the turbo's coolant must be used.

I have seen 92 blocks that are both ways. I never checked far enough to see if they were Plymouth, Mitsu, Eagle, Hyundai, etc., but I'm wondering if that may play a part. Also, this may relate to when it was BUILT instead of MODEL year as pauleyman said. Totally forgot about the front case bolt spacing though. It just goes to show looking back from the beginning of this post that there are so many small differences between these engines....

So, the setup I should have then, is a water pipe that has the banjo water fitting near the flange that bolts to the block, then that fitting connects to water line going to the front of the turbo, which would allow me to omit that T fitting. And I leave the oil cooler connected to the T-stat housing, and the water pipe, and the rear of turbo also connected to the t-stat housing. This is the setup I should switch to correct?? The less things there are that can leak the better, I want to get rid of that T fitting.
So parts I need, water pipe with the provision for banjo fitting(but mine needs to connect to tstat housing also) and the hardline for front of turbo into that banjo on the water pipe. Do I have that all correct?

With the 1G block and the 2G head w/ 2G thermostat housing and water pipe, the port that is lacking is the turbo coolant feed which originally comes from the block on the 2G. Everything else is there.

The water pipe with the banjo fitting near the flange that mounts it to the block is a 1G piece and will not work with the 2G thermostat housing. If you want dedicated lines for the turbo and oil cooler, you'll need to switch to a 91-94 turbo thermostat housing and water pipe (including the hard line for the front of the turbo and the hard line from the thermostat housing). Any other combination of parts will leave your setup at an odd number of ports.

Does the 1g block have provisions for the turbo coolant feed? Otherwise I have to keep the setup I have or switch to 1g tstat housing then? Is the way its setup right now sufficient? I am also wondering if I should keep the on cylinder head oil feed, or if I should convert to oil filter housing feed? The seals on this turbo are bad, and I wonder if the plumbing setup could be the cause?

No, the 1G block does not have any provisions for a coolant feed from the factory. Using a T is not a bad setup.

MHI turbos are generally better off fed oil from the head. You will need to research what your turbo manufacturer recommends for proper operating pressure.

Well it's a 16g of eBay variant so far as I can tell, so presumably it has the same preference.

I would assume that, yes.

If I remember correctly 1g head bolts are 1mm thicker and non TTY while the 2g head bolts are thinner and TTY, am I remembering that correctly? And is there an obvious difference in the bolts other than measuring the diameter of the shank? Or do you HAVE to use the 1g bolts with a 6 bolt block? I can't remember all the differences offhand, and whether 1g block/2g head can use either or has to use one particular set. Trying to figure out what head bolts I have so I know if I need to order new ones or not..
And FWIW, it is most definitely a 6 bolt block, and the pistons seem tight, and the bores look decent, found no metal in the oil pan etc. So appearances are I have a healthy shortblock that I don't need to mess with, so at least I have that going for me.

Talyn said:

If I remember correctly 1g head bolts are 1mm thicker and non TTY while the 2g head bolts are thinner and TTY, am I remembering that correctly?

Click to expand...

Not exactly. Head bolts are 6-bolt and 7-bolt specific, not 1G and 2G. So 6-bolt head bolts are 12mm in shank diameter and not torque to yield where 7-bolt head bolts are 11mm in shank diameter and are TTY.

Talyn said:

And is there an obvious difference in the bolts other than measuring the diameter of the shank?

Click to expand...

Yes. The 6-bolt head bolt uses a 10mm hex key / Allen tool to remove where the 7-bolt head bolt uses a 12mm, 12-point socket.

Talyn said:

Or do you HAVE to use the 1g bolts with a 6 bolt block? I can't remember all the differences offhand, and whether 1g block/2g head can use either or has to use one particular set. Trying to figure out what head bolts I have so I know if I need to order new ones or not..

Click to expand...

The head bolts must match the block, 12mm for 6-bolt and 11mm for 7-bolt.

I'm putting this thing back together, and I can't seem to remember which of the oil cooler lines had the T, I think it was the one going up to the crossover pipe?

Any line "going up to the crossover pipe" is going to be a return. Weren't you trying to utilize a T for a feed?

My setup is identical to the one in the diagram (2nd post) in this thread:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/coolant-hose-diagram-for-air-cooled-oil-cooler.468562/

The only difference is I don't have provisions for the line going from the front of the turbo into the block. It was T'd into one of the oil cooler lines but I can't remember which one it is, although I'm not even sure if it matters..
From what you say about anything going to the crossover being a return, the rear line on the turbo is a return, as it connects to a nipple on the water pipe, in which case the front is a feed. So I guess I need to T into 9 at the oil cooler, or 5 at the other end of the pipe going to it?

You've got it! T off at 5.