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2G Clutch drag/disengagement issues

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JDT

10+ Year Contributor
632
51
Apr 23, 2010
DSM, California
Yesterday I suddenly had a hard time getting out of gear. When I tried to shift out of 2nd I had to force it in neutral. Then it wouldn't go in any gear. I turned the car off and back on and it shifted smoothly. I drove home 20 minutes with no problem (phew, no tow truck).

Today in my driveway it won't shift with the engine running. The clutch fork rests slightly toward the middle driver's side. With the clutch depressed the fork went 3/4 of the way to the passenger side (how far is it supposed to go?). It didn't get near enough to touch the bell housing or anything.

I adjusted the pedal rod and the clutch feels a lot better. Like a pair of new shoes compared to a worn out pair. I can get in and out of gear again except that there's a tiny delay before it goes in gear.

-I didn't bleed the clutch since the slave looks old and the bleeder might break off, I have a new one coming.
-The condition of the master is unknown, likely an original 92k mile unit.
-The clutch is a stock replacement with about 20k on it. It grabs fine in all gears. No rattles/noises of any kind.

What do you guys think? Should I look at the fork and pivot ball? It appears ok from the outside. Could it be a pressure plate issue? Should the fork have play in it? Thanks.
 
Yep what flybiyou said. You need to adjust your clutch and inspect your parts for proper function. Also, your fork should rest close to the edge of it's window and with the clutch pressed in it should be less than or at the half way mark of it's window. If yours is doing something else your adjustment is incorrect.
 
I suspect the clutch springs are popping out and preventing the pressure plate from releasing. I'm ordering a CC Stage 2 full face clutch, anyone have experience with them?
 
Don't buy parts and throw them at your car hoping that your hunch is correct. This is how you spend a lot of money and still end up with a slow car. If you think that is the problem, remove the clutch and see if it is the problem.
 
Sounds like either slave or master cylinder is going bad. Ecspecially if the fluid is original. Brake fluid becomes corrosive after several years. You should be flushing your brake and clutch fluid every year. Its cheap insurance.
 
Ordered:

CC stage 2 "2100 series" clutch
OEM slave cylinder
OEM throw out bearing
STM master to slave clutch line
3 quarts of Redline MT-90

Don't buy parts and throw them at your car hoping that your hunch is correct. This is how you spend a lot of money and still end up with a slow car. If you think that is the problem, remove the clutch and see if it is the problem.

I've been launching on this clutch a lot of times, it'll slip on some launches so it's time for an upgrade anyway. I started up the car and it again won't go in any gear and I can hear the TOB whirring with the windows open. Since I have to pull the transmission out I might as well upgrade.
 
Since you have decided to simply replace everything, you may also want to add the following to your list:

  • MD706185- clutch release clip (for TOB)
  • MD719602- Pivot ball
  • MD770506- clutch release fork
  • Your choice of gear oil for the transfer case
  • New axle nuts for axles
Alternatively, Competition Clutch also offer its own release fork that comes with a pivot ball as well.

This is also a great time to inspect any seals on the transmission and transfer case. These suggestions are things I would do myself if I were complete the same job.
 
Last edited:
I agree with 2gmitsueclipse. When i removed my trans i replaced both axle seals and all the transfer case seals. Also check your master cylinder for any signs of a leak. Look up under the dash at where the master cylinder rod comes through. Feel around if anything is wet.
 
Thanks for the tips, I forgot about the "jesus clip" behind the TOB. The master looks fine and does not show signs of leakage. It still builds pressure, the pedal doesn't drop to the floor or anything so I'm not going to touch it just yet. I haven't pulled anything yet, so I haven't ordered the pivot ball. If it's in good condition I'll just shim it.
 
My problem is solved but I guess I'll update you guys in case anyone is curious as to what happened or if someone else is reading this and has the same problem.

I was right, the clutch spring did pop out:
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The guide piece that keeps the spring in place completely broke off and wedged itself in the pressure plate fingers:
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Even chipped off a piece of clutch:
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Don't use cheap clutches kits guys..
 
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