The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Fuel Injector Clinic
Please Support Morrison Fabrication

2G Several questions in one post

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

96talonchick

Proven Member
202
10
Feb 3, 2016
Chippewa Falls, Wisconsin
My car finally drives! So excited about that but now I have a few questions.

First question: my oil return line was pouring oil, randomly started so we swapped the braided line for the stock one and its still pouring out from there. What else can I do?

Second question: how much boost should I run with a 14b and a forged block? Debating on getting a boost controller but if my car can handle the 14b all out-its a current waste of money.
 
1) Is the oil coming out at the pan or turbo? Either way did you use new oil return line gaskets at both the pan and turbo? Extreme psi sells new gaskets and new oem bolts, and they even have a special gasket washer for the oil pan return bolts as this area is common to leaks.

2) Depends on your mods on how much boost you can run, like fuel, tuning, etc.... However, with correct supporting mods the 14b turbo is nice at 18 psi, anything pass 20 psi you will just be pushing hot air.
 
It's leaking turbo side. And I have no tune, stock injectors, no boost controller(factory or otherwise). Just have a sturdy block and want to have some fun.

Also I was going to add another question. How do I know if my boost gauge (aftermarket) is reading properly? Same as my oil pressure gauge?
 
I have both of those gauges as well as oil pressure. Just want to make sure they are reading properly. My boost gauge does not show vacuum and it is hooked up yet we test it with the test vacuum and it is ok.
 
You're boost gauge should be spiking anywhere from 12-15 (at least for a stock T25, not sure about 14b) and settling a little lower. You're going to wind up getting a boost controller at some point; a good nxs ball and spring MBC is only $15
The only thing preventing forged internals and a 14b from higher boost is fuel (pump and injectors) and a way to tune (ecu flash-evoscan, ecm/DSM link, at the bare minimum an safc, etc)
Which stock drain line are you using? 1g or 2g? The 2g T25 line needs the holes bored out to fit an MHI turbo properly, along with the proper gasket, bolts and washers as Type1 said. A little rtv also helps.
It would be a great disservice to that 6bolt if you didn't push it a bit.
 
Get that leak fixed before anything else! Until you have the fuel system to handle and a way to tune you should only run stock boost (14psi). Use alittle ultra black on both sides of your gaskets to help them seal. You only need alittle!! A proper setup and 14b up to 20-25psi is super fun. Love the quick spool and solid boost out of the 14b!!
 
Everything for my engine is for a 6 bolt, only using a few 2g sensors. My boost gauge spikes to 17 so far. But my husband is under the impression it should start out negative and go up. I start at 0 on the gauge and go up.

Next summer I am hoping to upgrade the turbo, this year however I just can't afford it. Already spent all of my spare cash building the car and just can't afford a new turbo. Same with dsmlink, just can't swing it. Injectors I could do and same goes for the fuel pump (I work at an auto parts store, love my discount!) But as of right now, I want to be able to safely drive it with my 4 year old in the back and not worry about breaking down. My winter vehicle has some repairs it needs done, so I'm trying to push the fix on my tsi without the worry of breaking it.
 
Buying any mods before DSMLink is pointless, save for an exhaust. Take some pictures of your oil issue with the turbo, I wanna see this...
 
Buying any mods before DSMLink is pointless, save for an exhaust. Take some pictures of your oil issue with the turbo, I wanna see this...
I kick myself in the ass everytime I think of exhaust. I had a.chance to trade 7 bolt forged eagle rods for an apexi N1 and didn't because I just couldn't justify buying new rods (bought the wrong ones my first round). Now I wish I would have, because I am running 3" exhaust with no muffler due to lack of finding an inexpensive one to get me through the summer
 
I will have my husband crawl under the car and get pictures if he's able to tomorrow. And as for the boost gauge tapped question, I am such a newb I have no idea what that means. So again, tomorrow I will have my husband tell me.
 
The boost gauge has a vacuum line connected to it to read boost. He's asking where this line is tapped into or t'd, like the fuel pressure reg Line or off the throttle body. Or t'd into another line. Does the boost gauge read vaccum? If it doesn't it can't go negative and will only read positive pressure (boost).
 
I kick myself in the ass everytime I think of exhaust. I had a.chance to trade 7 bolt forged eagle rods for an apexi N1 and didn't because I just couldn't justify buying new rods (bought the wrong ones my first round). Now I wish I would have, because I am running 3" exhaust with no muffler due to lack of finding an inexpensive one to get me through the summer

I don't see how having the boost gauge routed would effect the vacuum reading but not the boost reading unless you have a huge vacuum leak. Your gauge is probably broken. Is it electronic or analog? Either way, it should be T'd through the fuel pressure solenoid seen here: http://members.shaw.ca/dsm.1000q/Engineprimer/2G/solenoids.htm

Also are you talking about the oil FEED line or the oil RETURN line?
 
I don't see how having the boost gauge routed would effect the vacuum reading but not the boost reading unless you have a huge vacuum leak. Your gauge is probably broken. Is it electronic or analog? Either way, it should be T'd through the fuel pressure solenoid seen here: http://members.shaw.ca/dsm.1000q/Engineprimer/2G/solenoids.htm

Also are you talking about the oil FEED line or the oil RETURN line?
No. Where you tap can definately cause this. Only the Intake manifold produces vacuum. Tap before this not only do you get no vacuum but you get an inaccurate reading as you wont account for any pressure drop along the way. Do not tap at the compressor housing. You can also tap the fuel pressure regulator source but if you do so on the wrong side of the solenoid you'll get vacuum only at first.
 
Your boost gauge line should be from the intake manifold, anywhere past the throttle body. It's probably tapped into the intercooler piping so it's only able to read positive pressures, never seeing vacuum.

You said you tested it and it would show vacuum, so make sure it's line is hooked up to the appropriate spot.

Def fix your oil leak first, it almost sounds like your oil FEED is what's leaking, not the DRAIN (u said you swapped from the stainless braided to stock?). Either way make sure your mounting flanges are clean and flat with no old gasket, and if it's the feed actually, make sure there's not any scoring of the surfaces, and use new crush washers.

As for the 14b, I'll say on mine I've been running 16-17psi to be safe and my wideband doesn't show any signs of issue, I actually run pretty rich under load. I got it up to 20psi one day and hit fuel cut, still reading the same afr's as 17psi does. I turned it down since I don't have a way to log or tune in the car.

I'd leave the boost alone till you get at least a logging setup, preferably a tuning solution. With a built motor and a good tuning setuo, potentially you could run the 14b ragged, as is my plan before I change to a bigger setup.
 
No. Where you tap can definately cause this. Only the Intake manifold produces vacuum. Tap before this not only do you get no vacuum but you get an inaccurate reading as you wont account for any pressure drop along the way. Do not tap at the compressor housing. You can also tap the fuel pressure regulator source but if you do so on the wrong side of the solenoid you'll get vacuum only at first.

I thought this was obvious LOL not sure why anyone would route the compressor housing while all the vacuum lines are so much closer to your gauge.

Also, if my memory serves, not sure how you're using the stock T25 return line as the hole is smaller on the line than the 14b turbo. This could cause leaking. Make sure the drain holes are the same size.
 
I would definitely get a bigger fuel pump and an afpr at the very least before you bump up the boost. 18psi max with that turbo but should still be pretty peppy. Just fix the oil leak first so you don't burn out the turbo and boost away. With a Walbro 255 fuel pump you can pretty much throw on any turbo in the future and be good to go. They aren't really that expensive.
 
My boost gauge is off my throttle body vacuum source right now, it only reads positive pressure and not negative. Fpr is pushing 42 psi with vacuum on it. When we put the manual tester on the vacuum line it pulls negative pressure.

As far as everyone mentioning a T25, I have a 6 bolt with a 14b, (6 bolts came stock with a 14b, yes?) And it is visibly leaking from the oil return line, we are going to replace gaskets and bolts today in hopes that the pouring leak will disappear.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top