911gdsmboostin said:

steve said:

Is your BOV vented? I see you enabled Idle Air Clamp

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The maf clamp isn't activated.. at least I believe so I un checked the box under maf clamp that said activate or enable, thus making it inactive.

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Idle Air Clamp not MAF Clamp. You have the Idle Air Clamp enabled. https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/idleair

steve said:

Idle Air Clamp not MAF Clamp. You have the Idle Air Clamp enabled. https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/idleair

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Apologies for that I had mis read your question, I also had no clue that was even on or what it did for that matter, and also maybe plain why when I put it in drive at times will stall at idle and or when I break boost and let off it usually stalls

I appriciate the link and might explain why at times my engine will stall when I put in drive at idle for no reason or when I break boost and let off it stalls immeaditly I will try turning it off tonight and see what happens

The log shows you have idle issues and the car seems to take a long while to stabilize down to your programmed speed, however the ISC never seems to reach 30 counts. I don't think I asked if the throttle body is stock and still has the coolant hoses running to the FIAV like it should.

If you're expecting the actual NB signal to look as smooth as the simulated NB, it won't but I would expect it to be cleaner and more consistent than what your getting. That's why I asked about the wiring and heater. Was the sensor you got plug and play or did you have to adapt the connector?

You are adding 8.2% fuel across the board right now on the fuel tab which shouldn't be necessary if the airflow and injectors parameters are correct. Your also pulling 4.7% air at 50HZ in your MAFComp. These are working against each other at idle and up to about 2k RPM where the MAF HZ get high enough that the MAFComp is back to 0. Note the long term trims are adding fuel as well.

steve said:

The log shows you have idle issues and the car seems to take a long while to stabilize down to your programmed speed, however the ISC never seems to reach 30 counts. I don't think I asked if the throttle body is stock and still has the coolant hoses running to the FIAV like it should.

If you're expecting the actual NB signal to look as smooth as the simulated NB, it won't but I would expect it to be cleaner and more consistent than what your getting. That's why I asked about the wiring and heater. Was the sensor you got plug and play or did you have to adapt the connector?

You are adding 8.2% fuel across the board right now on the fuel tab which shouldn't be necessary if the airflow and injectors parameters are correct. Your also pulling 4.7% air at 50HZ in your MAFComp. These are working against each other at idle and up to about 2k RPM where the MAF HZ get high enough that the MAFComp is back to 0. Note the long term trims are adding fuel as well.

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I've noticed that u can't get 29-30 like it should also it gets close when warmed up and idling but it's not stable jumps from 31-23 and every thing in between but will stick around 29 too. I've tired adjusting it over and over again and where I have it is as close as I can get it which is basicly screwed all the way in..

The throttle body is stock and recently rebuild with new seals and everything the fav is hooked up like it should be as well.

The nd sensor I bought was oe replacment from rockauto ngk brand plug and play for 90-94 eclipse which is all they had a listing for.

I added 8.2% across the board when I was trying to dial in wot tunning and was getting knock at lower rpm like 3500 plus I was very lean according to the research I did I was between 13.2 and 12.9 at wot so I added fuel to make sure I wasn't hurting the motor. On the maf comp I adjusted that due to what I was reading thinking it what was need adjusted but after further reading I realized my airflow perrev was decent and I though I should focus on fuel In stead and started playing with deadtimes.

Please keep in mind I'm still getting a handle on link and just trying what I read under tech article for basic dsm tunning I read a few and gather all the info and try to make the decision which is best to try and try it. If I'm doing it wrong please point that out to me or maybe a better place to read. Alot of the ecm wiki I read is explaining it, my gathering first injectors need dialed in which I believe I got them pretty close.

Please keep in mind that I'm trying to be critical of what I see but not criticizing.
If the engine isn't in good mechanical condition then it's difficult to tune it.
If the ECU config has a lot of conflicting settings then it's difficult to analyze or interpret the data.

What you've described and in particular that your BISS is all the way in but to can't get the ISC to open (step out) indicates a air leakage issue. Depending on where it's coming from (metered or unmetered) is going to create driveability and tuning problems. The DSM throttle body is one of the most touchy parts of the car, tiny amounts of air can make huge differences.

Let's try and focus on the thread topic of your O2 sensor. A new NGK OEM sensor eliminates many variables, assuming no exhaust leaks/cracks anywhere near the sensor and we should be able to match the NB and WB readings.

The heater power comes from the MPI Relay on the red wire to pin 3 of the O2 sensor. The Ground for the heater is the black wire on pin 4 and runs to ground point #1 on the firewall next to the clutch and brake master cylinders. The NB signal is on the white wire on pin 1 and the shield/ground for the signal on the black wire on pin 2. It's grounded with the rest of the ECU sensors at point 7 which is on the passenger side of the center console. Make sure the connectors are clean, tight and the same for the grounds.

I suggest a new thread just for your tuning issues with all the background data in one the initial post.

steve said:

Please keep in mind that I'm trying to be critical of what I see but not criticizing.
If the engine isn't in good mechanical condition then it's difficult to tune it.
If the ECU config has a lot of conflicting settings then it's difficult to analyze or interpret the data.

What you've described and in particular that your BISS is all the way in but to can't get the ISC to open (step out) indicates a air leakage issue. Depending on where it's coming from (metered or unmetered) is going to create driveability and tuning problems. The DSM throttle body is one of the most touchy parts of the car, tiny amounts of air can make huge differences.

Let's try and focus on the thread topic of your O2 sensor. A new NGK OEM sensor eliminates many variables, assuming no exhaust leaks/cracks anywhere near the sensor and we should be able to match the NB and WB readings.

The heater power comes from the MPI Relay on the red wire to pin 3 of the O2 sensor. The Ground for the heater is the black wire on pin 4 and runs to ground point #1 on the firewall next to the clutch and brake master cylinders. The NB signal is on the white wire on pin 1 and the shield/ground for the signal on the black wire on pin 2. It's grounded with the rest of the ECU sensors at point 7 which is on the passenger side of the center console. Make sure the connectors are clean, tight and the same for the grounds.

I suggest a new thread just for your tuning issues with all the background data in one the initial post.

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I appriciate Ll the help and sorry for getting off topic I'll make a tunning issue thread later being this as well can be an issue with tunning and is I would think part of being mechanical issue, I'll look around at the grounds and other points comming from the mpi relay and see what I find I che cked for exhaust leaks numerous times and found a very slight one at the manifold to turbo it was brand new 7cm gasket and can't get the new bolts I'm using any tighter so my asumption was it wasn't bad enough to worrie too much about. I'm not sure how sensitive the o2 would be to it but again I didn't decoder this issue till the dead one was replaced and started using link. Also I noticed a single black wore with. O connection end on it when I was plugging everything in I can't seem to locate where it goes I never fallow ed it back to see but I was sure it was probly for the stock fpr I'll take a better look to see what it may be for as well

Hi, I'm setting up a 93 and ran across the same problem. Read the whole thread, did you ever come up with a solution for this?

With a jumpy o2 voltages?

Sorry yes, I actually spent some time with the car and found making the global fuel settings richer would make the o2 start switching at idle so, Im going to tweak it a little more today and see what happens. I need to verify the injector size also because they were purchased used and the setting that came from Ecmlink should have been closer than what it was ( i think). But thanks for getting back to me!