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Bleeding brembo brakes

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jpmxrider489

10+ Year Contributor
2,410
146
Apr 4, 2010
pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
I did the brembo upgrade on my 2g. I did the bleeding procedure according to the picture. Everything seemed fine with no leaks and I had a stiff pedal. I read that many people do not upgrade to the 3g booster so I decided not to. But The fluid reservoir was not going down after the bleeding so I thought everything was fine. I started the car for the first time in a while and after I started It I noticed the reservoir was dry. I dont know if it was dry before I started it or not. Is there something I am doing wrong during the procedure? Is the car supposed to be running when bleeding? Am I supposed to bleed the bleeders at the same time? It is just weird after the process It seemed fine then a week later it was dry. After the process I did not notice the reservoir going down at all.
 

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I bled mine farthest away to closest, so a bit different than that diagram. But I have no issues with mine. Since you replaced all 4 calipers I assume, it will take a long ass time for them to bleed out. I assume what happened is that even though you thought they were bled you still had a huge air pocket in each line. I remember switching legs while bleeding the brakes cause it took so damn long and so many pumps. I know there are reverse bleeders, where you force fluid from the caliper to the master, but I have never used one.
 
The factory recommended order due to the split circuit is:

Passenger Rear
Driver Front
Driver Rear
Passenger Front

The Brembo calipers add the need to bleed both sides of the caliper, outer then inner at each wheel. So you bleed both sides of the caliper before going to the next wheel.
 
That is what I did. After the process was done and I didn't notice any signs of air in the lines still. Then I check the resivour and it was dry. It was dry when I started so maybe I didn't do it long enough?
 
Check that the master has been bleed well, this has to be done on the car as its an open system, (everyone will say bench bleed it but its impossible due to the open system and only closes when pressed) this means when you take it off the bench the cykinder is open to air and fluid pours out! Bleed it in the can and loop the lines around to the cap area, the prop valve has a tendancy to jam with air and wont release it correctly,

When your bleeding is your helper holding the pedal down while you crack open the calioer nipple? This holds in in closed and cannot let air or fluid escape,

Its a fairly simple task to do and i got mine first time but getting the procedure correct is critical to brakes or no brakes,
 
Also go around checking all your fittings for the hoses from MC to caliper and make sure your crush washers are sealing and not leaking or around the prop valve, the check all nipples are tight and only do 1 caliper at a time, do not release the pedal untill you have closed that nipple
 
You dont want to take it off anyway, if you re read what i said i mentioned doing it in the car as its an open system and as soon as you release it air will go back in and loose all fluid anyway,

On your prop valve disconnect the lower 2 lines, attach a threaded hose to the hardline on both outlets on the hardlines and then drop the other end into the fluid and actually have them submerged in fluid, then pump till no more air is in cycling. Now you need 2 people for this!!!!!!!! Have the person pumping hold the brake pedal down to close the system off and keep it pressed, while they do that you have to put the hardlines back on the prop valve and only when you are sure its done up right then they can release the brake pedal, then do the 5 pumps bleed and so on, i did this and have always done it this way and i had zero issues and did mine first time but ive worked on brakes for years so i got a good rythem going and never seem to have spongy pedals
 
That means you have a leak somewhere. You have to be 100% sure its all tight and find the issue, its leaking or blocked somewhere, id in doubt take it to a shop and have them do it
 
Over the next few days I will try to start over. I will bleed the master then proceed with the brembo bleeding process in the order. I will do a two person job on this. The manual says to have someone press the brake then put your fingers over the outlet holes and then release the break. Has that method worked? I believe thats the same thing your saying just different way?
 
Do yourself a favor and try the speed bleeders. Cheap and easy to use. I think you only need one person to bleed them. 10X faster.

Back in the day I put them on my clutch slave and brakes.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Just a update. I got a 3g master and bench bleed it. Everything went good on the bench. I got braided lines from the master to the prop valve. So once I put it in the car I will bleed it the same way as I did on the bench. I would run the braided lines back into the reservoir and press the pedel and release until no bubbles? Then once no bubbles occur I can then have someone hold the brake while I put the lines back on? Then I can bleed the brakes?
 
Right, bench bleeding is good for reverse cylinders which is not many nowadays, if you bleed it and then take the lines out of the res it continues to drip and thats because the fluid left inside the cylinder is open to air and not closed so it wont rush out the res but it will drip out slowly over time but even the slightest air bubble will cause no brakes so thats why these cylinders cannot be bench bleed unless you can lock them into closed (pressed in) which you cant do.

When i say 5 pumps i mean with the nipples all locked off get the person to pump the brakes 5 times, this builds good pressure up in the system and thats when you crack open the nipple and release the pressure and fluid! They must keep the brakes pressed while you crack open the nipple to close the system off and thats what i also mean by bleeding the MC in the car as if you opened the nipple with the brakes not on air gets in and thats the same way as the cylinder to the res,
 
Yeah it sounds like you ran the master cylinder dry originally and need to bleed it again.

I like to use a vacuum gun in the bottom of the resevoir to pull the air out of the lines. Since the car is vacuum boosted I reccomend trying this with the car running, vacuum applied to the master and pump the pedal.

When bled dry the lines coming up to the master fill with air, since gravity takes fluid down the air comes up. The master doe not let fluid or air back into the resevoir so pulling a vacuum in the resevoir and pumping the pedal sucks the air back up onto the resevoir. So next time try to pinch the lines to prevent the master going dry
 
after all is said and done the pedal may feel a bit spongy. well at least my did, may need a second bleeding procedure.
 
I just bled the master on the car and everything seemed fine. I hooked up all the lines. So should I go ahead and press the pedal 5 times? My guess is fluid will drop because of air in lines. Or should I just bleed the lines without the 5 presses?
 
Once you have bleed the cylinder on the car and its back on the prop valve do the normal procedure now, 5 pumps to build up pressure and release keep doing that till fluid comes out, then go around, once you been around once go around again and do it till clean fresh fluid comes out then go around doing the same and then your done,

Now you have bleed the cylinder to the prop valve air wont go bsck into the cylinder no more, as long as you had someone hold the brake down while you re connected the line to the prop valve!!!

You can do 2/4/8 pumps its totally upto you, i do 5 and always have done, this way im telling you to do is the way ive always worked on cars and ive never had any issues, i would not tell you to do it this way if it was wrong, mine took 30 mins to bleed and i was then driving around and had perfect brake pressures,
 
I forgot to ask but did you change the master cylinder aswell or keep it stock and you said you have now swapped to stainless lines to the prop valve right or did i read that wrong
 
Since I have the brembo brakes I decided to swap to a 3G master. I also got stainless lines and fittings for it.

When my buddy held in the brake for me to put the lines back on, i did see bubbles when I took the hoses out of the reservoir but he had the pedal in so no air got sucked in. I guess that part is normal?
 
If you pumped it enough or rather circled it through the res from MC all bubbles will be gone. But you must make sure the end of the hose is sitting in fluid and not above the fluid. Any contact with air or its chance to suck it back in it will do, once you have got this part right the rest is easy to do and bleed and within 1 hour you should be able to drive it.
 
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