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1995 Talon tsi full restoration

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RenleyX

Proven Member
97
1
Jun 3, 2014
Denver, Colorado
So I am in the middle of a full restoration on a 1995 talon tsi awd

The engine is rebuilt and ready to put back in the car.

However, I have a question = when removing the engine the air conditioning leaked out all the way.

What do i need to do to get my air conditioning working again? Is this just a matter of 'recharging' or do i need to do more?


also...

My speedo was not working before the car was taken apart. I looked at the plastic gear in the transmission and i see that it is there. So if the speedo is still not working, do i need to buy a new speed sensor or is the problem more likely in the dash behind the speedo needle?


Thanks!
 
i had the same problem with the speedo and replacing the sensor in the trans fixed it.

As for the A/C, i'd just give it a full recharge bottle and make sure it doesnt leak when you re-charge it
 
Hrm... I think i have another problem...

One of the bolts that stick out of the head where the exhaust manifold attaches has broken off ... :(

Do I need to drill this out and install another stud bolt?


and the sensor in the transmission is the one that plugs in to the top right? or some other one inside the tranny?
 
Hrm... I think i have another problem...

One of the bolts that stick out of the head where the exhaust manifold attaches has broken off ... :(

Do I need to drill this out and install another stud bolt?


and the sensor in the transmission is the one that plugs in to the top right? or some other one inside the tranny?

Yes, you will have to drill out the stud and put a new one in

Yes, the speed sensor plugs in to the top. Check the connection at the sensor: i believe it has one of those metal wire clips that can be difficult to install/remove in its location. I remember having a tough time with it.
 
OK. Cool. I am making the order to get the ARP manifold studs now. Not looking forward to drilling out studs :(

Thanks guys! if all goes well, the engine will be installed this weekend!! Woot!
 
Hey there! New questions!!

I have upgraded by fuel injectors to 1000cc and i have upgraded the fuel pump to 255

Do I need to upgrade any of my fuel line/fuel rail /fuel filters?

Thanks!
 
Hey there! New questions!!

I have upgraded by fuel injectors to 1000cc and i have upgraded the fuel pump to 255

Do I need to upgrade any of my fuel line/fuel rail /fuel filters?

Thanks!
You'll need a fuel pressure regulator, and to rewire the pump, but the rest should be OK.
 
Is this fuel pressure regulator something that I can get at NAPA or O'Reily? Or is it something i need to order?

Also, are these good instructions on how to rewire the fuel pump?
http://www.raktron.com/fuel/rewire1.html
The instructions look ok. You'd have to order the regulator from somewhere, the OEM one mostly gets overwhelmed by a 255.
 
Ok cool, thanks!

I will buy that guys FPR next week (when i get paid) if he still has it
 
OK! I got the FRP bolts and am drilling out the bad ones and installing the good ones now.

I also got the fuel pump and voltage upgrade done so the walboro 255 shoudl flow great!

NEW QUESTION!

I know I will need ECULink to tune my car... and one thing i dont understand is the MAF...

The car i bought came with a short ram intake.... but does that mean they also modified or upgraded the MAF too?

Do I need to upgrade my MAF in order to take full advantage of the ECULink?

Since the engine is fully built, i was looking at putting down 400whp...

So, can i stick with the stock MAF?

Can I stick with the stock intake manifold?

thanks!
 
OK! I got the FRP bolts and am drilling out the bad ones and installing the good ones now.

I also got the fuel pump and voltage upgrade done so the walboro 255 shoudl flow great!

NEW QUESTION!

I know I will need ECULink to tune my car... and one thing i dont understand is the MAF...

The car i bought came with a short ram intake.... but does that mean they also modified or upgraded the MAF too?

Do I need to upgrade my MAF in order to take full advantage of the ECULink?

Since the engine is fully built, i was looking at putting down 400whp...

So, can i stick with the stock MAF?

Can I stick with the stock intake manifold?

thanks!

You can run the stock maf with an intake no problem usually. In your case i'd recommend something like an Evo MAF. The DSM MAF gets very choppy around low 300's HP wise. The Evo is pretty bulletproof
 
Here is the headliner... it came out really good!

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If you have not started drilling out the studs I would suggest left handed drill bits they normally will start to spin them out. Or. Weld a nut on the end of the stud and spin it out. I messed up my head from a ez-out will never use them again
 
I got really lucky. The easy out worked perfect. :)

I just finished denting the water pipe so my FP Green turbo will fit :p

pics soon!
 
Well that restores a little bit of my faith in them. But I broke 4 in 2 head so I got my 3rd now and I told myself not to use them LOL. I must have got a crappy set. Nice thread so far it's a good read.
 
Well, I got a cobalt drill bit, drilled a hole in the center of the stud and then used the easyout to pull the stud. So the easyout did the least work. The hardest part was drilling down the center of the stud. once that was done the easyout pulled the stud super easy.
 
This is the video i used for instructions on how to do the headline. My results were as easy and good as this video showed. :)

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Next week i will be trying this = using DupliColor to paint my grey door panels black

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OK guys, all is going well. But I am still running into issues with my car.

Can you help?

- Clutch throw = I have been adjusting this darn thing and I just can't seem to get it right. What is the trick here? It is either set up to where you can't push the pedal in far enough to engage the clutch, or its like SUPER tiny area to engage and if you push too far or not enough, it wont go into gear...

- Boost leaks = The car seems to have trouble building boost and holding it. Its like it builds boost then it drops off. Why is this?

- Speedo is not working = I bought a new speed sensor and added it to the trans. it seemed to fit fine, and felt like it threaded in, so i think the gear in the trans is still there. So where else might things go wrong to prevent the speedo working?

- SRS light = my air bag light is on.. why?

- ABS light = my ABS light is on... where are ABS sensors at?

- BIGGEST ISSUE = Battery drain = the car battery goes dead in hours after driving. But as long as i drive it every few hours, it stays charged just fine. So the alternator seems to be working fine...
 
Full disclosure: I'm a newbie (old owner, new to actually doing this detailed work myself), and by no means an expert on transmission issues, but if it doesn't go into gear with the clutch on the floor, the adjustment needs to be backed off. In that 2nd scenario that you gave, if you leave it in first and let it slow down, does it keep driving or will it actually stall out? If the former, then the clutch is constantly engaged (bad!), if the latter, then it's something else and somebody much more experienced will need to jump in.

Boost leak: Check the turbo is tightened down, all intakes and IC pipes are tight, wastegate connections closed properly, etc. Are you using a boost controller? That sounds like you're building so much pressure it's triggering the BOV. Are you using an external wastegate?

Battery drain: At first appears as if that's just a bad battery, but considering the ABS light and SRS light are in "freak-out" mode, that sounds like something a bit more. Did you already check that the cables on the battery terminals are really tight? If that's not it, I would check the charging system. The alternator might be delivering a partial charge, but not enough to sustain driving. When the alternator on my 1g went (many, many, MANY times), it was often indicated by the sudden appearance of three warning lights, which would dim when the revs increased. The lights were ABS, brake, and something else. Radiator? Somebody else will be sure to remember, also. 1g has no airbags, so maybe the SRS took the place of the brake light as part of that error code in the 2g? If there is an electrical problem, that could be affecting your speedo as well, but that's kind of a long shot. Last possibility is that if you've just had the engine compartment all disassembled to get the engine out and back in, make EXTRA sure that all your grounding cables are connected properly and not touching other electrical components. A grounding problem will kill your battery in a heartbeat.
 
Yeah, I am going through grounding cables and checking fuses this weekend.

There is also the possibility that a wire is bad. I tore out an old poorly installed kill switch that was killing the battery before. Maybe there is more to it that is still around.
 
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