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Delis' 1000HP 2G - Boostin Performance Built and Tuned

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Boostin Performance

Proven Member
396
200
Jan 7, 2014
Hoffman Estates, Illinois
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Delis brought us his beautiful 1996 Eclipse with some goals in mind, and some objectives he wanted met. He wanted a car with 1,000HP, but still wanted the ability to drive it on the street occasionally. This meant no comforts were removed other than the A/C. Ultimately, Delis wanted a car that could be taken to the track as well as on a night cruise. To help facilitate this dream and make it a reality, Delis delivered his car to our shop all the way from Florida, specifically for a Boostin Performance transformation!!

At the heart of Delis' build, we have a 6-bolt engine that underwent our Boostin Performance “Red Demon Spec” 2.0L Aluminum Long Rod treatment. This package will be available to our customers via our website very soon!
So, you may be asking......What makes this engine package different from the standard BP Stage 3 package? First, we fill the block with concrete and line hone the mains after the Kiggly Main Girdle is installed. We also install Kiggly's Oil Pickup Mod to keep the oil flowing strong. Next, we fit the 156mm billet Aluminum connecting rods to our custom high compression gas ported pistons via custom .300 wall tool steel wrist pins. Then, the block is upgraded to accept our Boostin Performance 1/2” L19 4g63 Head Stud/Head Insert Kit (Red Demon/7 second Spec). To compliment this built short block, the cylinder head also receives our Boostin Performance Stage 3 treatment, topped off with a set of Kelford 280 Cams.

This entire package is designed for 1200+ WHP, and will be able to withstand anything the Precision 7675 turbo can throw at it!

As soon as we have tuning results from Delis' beast, we will be posting those details and videos, so stay tuned!!!

Mod List:
-Boostin Performance 2.0L “Red Demon Spec” Aluminum Long Rod Short Block
-Boostin Performance Stage 3 Cylinder Head w/ Kelford 280 Cams
-Precision 7675 Turbocharger
-Magnus Motorsports V3 Dual Rail Intake Manifold
-(8) ID 1700 Injectors
-Boostin Performance Rebuilt Transmission (w/ Evo 3 Conversion)
-Boostin Performance 300m Output Shaft
-Boostin Performance DSM 300M T-case Upgrade
-Driveshaft Shop Aluminum Driveshaft
-Quarter Master 8-leg Clutch
-Dual Map Tune on AEM using 93 octane and VP Import

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Deady sexy build.

So you recommend driving on the street with a filled block?

Depends on if its half filled or the entire thing is filled. If its half, there shouldnt be a problem on the street because most of the heat comes from the head. Just need to make sure your cooling system is running at its peak, IE electric water pump.

Fully filled blocks are meant for a single pass down the strip, then shut off. If this block is fully filled I would be astonished.

I would be more worried about the aluminum rods begin driven on the street. Hope the OP knows how often he will need to service them...

EDIT: I just noticed one thing, stock waterpump in one of the pictures... Good luck on keeping her cool..
 
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Thanks for the kind words guys. Delis's block is only half filled so he can drive it on the street, it also uses the stock water pump which really helps with reliability. We have been driving half filled blocks for years on the street. We also made sure to equip Delis's car with two strong fans to prevent the engine from over heating. More updates coming soon. ;)

Deady sexy build.

So you recommend driving on the street with a filled block?

Beautiful, beautiful car. So clean you could eat off of it. I was wondering about the block fill and driving on street as well?

This car will over heat going a couple of blocks in Florida weather, if not the aluminum rods are going to stretch and come out the block later. I hate to be less optimistic here but something tell me this is going to be a lot of maintannence.

None the less good job boosting performance! Nice build. I'm looking to do the 1/2 inch conversion with you guys later.

Depends on if its half filled or the entire thing is filled. If its half, there shouldnt be a problem on the street because most of the heat comes from the head. Just need to make sure your cooling system is running at its peak, IE electric water pump.

Fully filled blocks are meant for a single pass down the strip, then shut off. If this block is fully filled I would be astonished.

I would be more worried about the aluminum rods begin driven on the street. Hope the OP knows how often he will need to service them...

EDIT: I just noticed one thing, stock waterpump in one of the pictures... Good luck on keeping her cool..
 
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Figured you guys might enjoy this update ;) :

We would like to welcome Delis into the Boostin Performance 1000 WHP Club... 1037 WHP to be exact!

Mods:
-Red Demon Spec Aluminum Rod Short Block
-Red Demon Spec 1/2" Head Studs and Head Gasket
-Boostin Performance Stage 3 Cylinder Head
-Boostin Performance 300M DSM T-case Upgrade
- Driveshaft Shop HD Aluminum Driveshaft
-Precision Turbo & Engine Gen 1 7675 Turbocharger
-Magnus Motorsports V3 Cast Aluminum Intake Manifold w/ 2 sets of ID 1700's
-AEM EMS Boostin Tuned on 93 Octane & VP Import






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That cars a f***ing beast, hope the owner makes it to the shootout this year!!! What rim/tire setup are you guys running on this car it looks dope...
 
I read an article by GRP which stated aluminium rod stretch is more myth than fact. The reason they don't recommend many people building street cars run them is because most builds never see the power and stress necessary to warrant their use. They also mentioned that super short service life is part myth as well because only the methanol and alcohol injected guys are replacing them every other pass and that is just due to the extreme pressures generated in that application. Again this is just what I read in an article with GRP. If I'm wrong feel free to step in and correct me Devin (or Kristin).
 
Was there any particular reason for ditching the cop setup?
This was just a standard COP set up with no ignition box. Stock ignition worked out great.

That cars a f***ing beast, hope the owner makes it to the shootout this year!!! What rim/tire setup are you guys running on this car it looks dope...
Enkei RP03 Wheels with Hoosier Drag Radials. : )


Dude you have to remove any material from the block or the main caps to accommodate the aluminum rods?

The block and girdle have to be notched to make clearance for the rod. Main caps aren't touched.
 
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I take it you've never had a motorcycle.
I said "Normally"
To your point, I have. Vehicles and motorcycles are vastly different as you know.
My point was that the service limit for a Dog Box is much greater then that of a syncro'd trans. I wouldnt call a dog box "DD" material if you plan on putting 10-20k miles on it a year when you have to take it apart every few thousands miles to set preloads/clearances. Maybe you do? If thats the case, more power to you.
 
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