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Kinetic SBR what piping do i get?

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05Nissan350z

Proven Member
155
2
Oct 23, 2013
Canton, Ohio
Hey everyone,

Found a huge kinetic fmic I'm wanting to buy but it's just the core... So I'm wondering if anyone can help with as to what piping to buy. I've been searching and haven't found notta... I want to run a short route for sure. Someone told me Punishment racing was close to SBR just a tad longer but I cant even find a piping kit through them for a fmic unless you order the fmic kit... Any suggestions? Treat me like a toddler I new to this.

Could I get something like this and cut to fit? if so which would be better?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-3...ash=item41a420912f:g:L6wAAOSwKtlWsnIj&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-B...m589dd1a193:m:mxM1QGKi2-TdAorEMvX-fbQ&vxp=mtr
 
Last edited:
That will be such a pain in the ass. This is the full kit, but you can contact them to ask for the piping only.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CXRacing-FM...647cf30&pid=100005&rk=3&rkt=5&sd=131232177950

One word of caution, the thin BOV flange sucks and once you put a BOV on and tighten it enough to not leak, if you EVER take it off the flange will be warped and you will be pissed when you have to straighten/resurface etc...

You may use a 1g bov on that flange (recommended) if you drill new holes. I cant recall if its pre-drilled for 1g or not. But if you use the knockoff they supply or any greddy knockoff, even the NRG, the O-ring that the valve uses to seal WILL eventually become dislodged, and become a boost leak. You will likely have to remove the BOV to replace the Oring where it should go and fix the leak.
 
I have the same core and I ordered a universal kit from CX Racing. The kit was @ $100. I ended up using a straight section and a 90 degree section on the hot side, and 2 of the 45 degree sections on the cold side. After I had everything like I wanted I had the pipes welded together. The pipe is also thick and does not deform when tightening down on the clamps like the thin stuff.
 
That will be such a pain in the ass. This is the full kit, but you can contact them to ask for the piping only.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CXRacing-FMIC-Intercooler-kit-BOV-For-DSM-1G-Eclipse-Talon-90-94/370334510230?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIC.MBE&ao=1&asc=20131003132420&meid=c70bb4587f704de2811ed65f4647cf30&pid=100005&rk=3&rkt=5&sd=131232177950

One word of caution, the thin BOV flange sucks and once you put a BOV on and tighten it enough to not leak, if you EVER take it off the flange will be warped and you will be pissed when you have to straighten/resurface etc...

You may use a 1g bov on that flange (recommended) if you drill new holes. I cant recall if its pre-drilled for 1g or not. But if you use the knockoff they supply or any greddy knockoff, even the NRG, the O-ring that the valve uses to seal WILL eventually become dislodged, and become a boost leak. You will likely have to remove the BOV to replace the Oring where it should go and fix the leak.

Hey thanks for the info! I have a greddy bov right now should I tell them that so they can send me the right flange also? and I'm going to put this on when I put my mhi20g on do I need anything for it?

I have the same core and I ordered a universal kit from CX Racing. The kit was @ $100. I ended up using a straight section and a 90 degree section on the hot side, and 2 of the 45 degree sections on the cold side. After I had everything like I wanted I had the pipes welded together. The pipe is also thick and does not deform when tightening down on the clamps like the thin stuff.

Sweet thanks for the info what turbo are you using?
 
If its the greddy BOV is the type that everyone makes a knockoff of, it should be fine, as in it will bolt up. I cannot comment on the reliability of the real thing, but any knock off or replica I am now convinced it will eventually fail and cause a boost leak, as I have tried both the CX racing one as well as the NGR one. (NGR is actually supposed to rival or be better than the real thing in terms of quality).

The pipes kit I mentioned was designed for shorter pipes coming out of the fmic. Those types of FMIC: eBay, CXracing, Punishment Racing, ETS all have short inlet/outlets compared to VRSF/SBR/Kinetic (I believe those are the ones with longer outlet/inlets). My recommendation may be a bad idea if that's the case since you will be doing a lot of cutting to make it fit.
 
Check out siliconeintakes.com for all your piping, couplers and clamp needs. I got my 3" kit from them and it's great. Just have to cut and bead the pipes to fit your needs. Not hard at all and let's you make them the way you want. You can also buy bov flanges from them if you need. I love my hks but ngr's are a great bov too.
 
Yeah my greddy is a real one. I forget how I checked way back when I bought it but it is. And alright so no eBay universal kit then. Idc if I have to cut pipe I just want something that's going to work LOL
 
Cutting of the car or pipes?

If its the greddy BOV is the type that everyone makes a knockoff of, it should be fine, as in it will bolt up. I cannot comment on the reliability of the real thing, but any knock off or replica I am now convinced it will eventually fail and cause a boost leak, as I have tried both the CX racing one as well as the NGR one. (NGR is actually supposed to rival or be better than the real thing in terms of quality).

The pipes kit I mentioned was designed for shorter pipes coming out of the fmic. Those types of FMIC: eBay, CXracing, Punishment Racing, ETS all have short inlet/outlets compared to VRSF/SBR/Kinetic (I believe those are the ones with longer outlet/inlets). My recommendation may be a bad idea if that's the case since you will be doing a lot of cutting to make it fit.
 
I am assuming this is for a 1g... You will need to cut both. The D shape holes on the sides of the radiator will need to be enlarged. (snips, sawzall, angle grinder/cutoff wheels) And most likely the actual bumper will need to be cut/hallowed a bit for clearance (the metal, not just the painted cover). Also the pipes, because there is about 6 inches of extra pipe sticking out of the FMIC compared to the other brands I mentioned that is not accounted for (over compensated for) by the CX racing kit.

Any way you do it on a 1g pretty much involves hacking up something. In your case, likely the pipes and car. For most people, just the car. I highly recommend removing the radiator entirely, and shifting the AC condenser around so that you can get good angles to make perfect clean cuts at. TAke your time on cuts. Clean/debur weld the seams back together (to leave surfaces smooth) then paint/enamel to prevent rust.
 
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