wishihadatalon
20+ Year Contributor
- 2,615
- 72
- Aug 18, 2002
-
Grand Rapids,
Michigan
Looks nice. If you're worried about the door bars, why not do swing outs?
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Maybe it was one of you that welded someone elses?...wasn't me or Paul, neither of us have/had cages installed. Yet.
Looks nice. If you're worried about the door bars, why not do swing outs?
What about pivoting door bars? They have a pin on each end so they can either pivot out of the way or be removed completely for normal driving. .
AB was competing in land speed events, a typical 4 point roll bar isn't something that would pass tech going 180mph+. I posted a photo of his cage on the first page but here are more detailed pictures of it.Does anyone know if Andrew's car had something similar?
4:10 ROLL BAR All roll bars must be within 6 inches of the rear, or side, of the driver’s head, extend in height at least 3 inches above the driver’s helmet with driver in normal driving position or be within 1 inch of the roof/headliner in the area above the driver's helmet, and be at least as wide as the driver's shoulders or within 1 inch of the driver's door. Roll bar must be adequately supported or crossbraced to prevent forward or lateral collapse. Rear braces must be of the same diameter and wall thickness as the roll bar and intersect with the roll bar at a point not more than 5 inches from the top of the roll bar. Crossbar and rear braces must be welded to main hoop. Sidebar must be included on driver’s side and must pass the driver at a point midway between the shoulder and elbow. Swing-out sidebar permitted. All roll bars must have in their construction a cross bar for seat bracing and as the shoulder harness attachment point; cross bar must be installed no more than 4 inches below, and not above, the driver’s shoulders or to side bar. All vehicles with OEM frame must have roll bar welded or bolted to frame; installation of frame connectors on unibody cars does not constitute a frame; therefore it is not necessary to have the roll bar attached to the frame. Unibody cars with stock floor and firewall (wheeltubs permitted) may attach roll bar with 6-inch x 6-inch x .125-inch 1" 12" 4:8 4:8 steel plates on top and bottom of floor bolted together with at least four 3/8-inch bolts and nuts, or weld main hoop to rocker sill area with .125-inch reinforcing plates, with plates welded completely. Also, the roll bar may be welded to frame connectors that are fully welded in place and are 1 5/8 inches x .118-inch MS or .083-inch CM round and/or 2 inch x 2 inch x .058 MS or CM rectangular. All 4130 chromoly tube welding must be done by approved TIG heliarc process; mild steel welding must be done by approved MIG wire feed or approved TIG heliarc process. Welding must be free of slag and porosity. Any grinding of welds prohibited. See illustration. Roll bar must be padded anywhere driver’s helmet may contact it while in driving position. Adequate padding must have minimum 1/4-inch compression or meet SFI Spec 45.1.
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I get that but going to multiple track events myself, 9 times out of 10 I don't get asked to even pop my hood. They look at my helmet and sign my tech form, done! At least once a year I get Nazi Dan who blouses his jeans into his boots and thinks he's a Retired Police Captain and he looks at EVERYTHING. If you're going to spend money on a roll bar to pass tech, spend money on a roll bar that's going to pass tech every time whether you've got a mouth breather looking over your car or a tech inspector that would write his own mom a jay walking ticket on an empty street.Corey, I wanted to know if AB had any undercarriage bracing (and not Autopower bar)
The convertible "roll bar rule" is fairly loose, they do not typically stick to the same level of scrutiny as 10-11.49 cars. For instence, if your convertible car came with ANY bar from the factory, they usually let it count. I have seen others being allowed to run high 11's using otherwise illegal Autopower bolt-in bar.
I want to create something that will clear rear passenger by a “good amount” and will allow for generous padding. At this point, I am only after a “roll bar”, which will allow me to run 11.50-12.99, NHRA rules for those are pretty vague, so a simple 4 point bar should do the trick. I might even start with Autopower bolt-in bar and see how that working out. If I like it, might go for a real, weld-in cage to resemble it.