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Tackling my first cage.

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What about pivoting door bars? They have a pin on each end so they can either pivot out of the way or be removed completely for normal driving. Like this one:
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Edit: someone beat me to the idea. Did not see it while posting this.
 
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Looks nice. If you're worried about the door bars, why not do swing outs?
What about pivoting door bars? They have a pin on each end so they can either pivot out of the way or be removed completely for normal driving. .

The plan this year was to go with swing outs. But like i said i am running out of time. Also at over 200$ a side is a little ridiculous.

Urban, i might try and have it certified, we will see. Ill definitely update this if i do!
 
Why not go with tubing that slides over another and is locked in place by a pin in each spot? I know some of the tubing would need to be smaller, or use some larger so the original tube size isn't reduced. The picture of the Camaro with the swinging bar looks to be weaker to me because if the pin breaks for whatever reason, the bar just falls. Therefore, the pin would be the weak spot. If the we're sliding tubes, I think the weakness would be lessened.
 
Hey guys, I am a bit late to the party here ;). I finally finished my AWD, 5sp, Talon Spyder conversion on my FWD auto Eclipse, after taking 3+ years to do it. I was promptly reminded just how much flex we get in our Spyders! I was ruling out having a cage in the past (because I still have my kids in the back), but I am now back to that idea.

I want to create something that will clear rear passenger by a “good amount” and will allow for generous padding. At this point, I am only after a “roll bar”, which will allow me to run 11.50-12.99, NHRA rules for those are pretty vague, so a simple 4 point bar should do the trick. I might even start with Autopower bolt-in bar and see how that working out. If I like it, might go for a real, weld-in cage to resemble it.

For years, I was laughing at Autopower roll bars, as not being serious enough. Well, the joke is on me, if I end up having one in my Spyder…

And sense this topic specific to making Spyders stiffer, what do you guys think of subrail supports, as done on Miatas http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/effective-bracing.354217/page-8#post-153550947

Does anyone know if Andrew's car had something similar?
 
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Does anyone know if Andrew's car had something similar?
AB was competing in land speed events, a typical 4 point roll bar isn't something that would pass tech going 180mph+. I posted a photo of his cage on the first page but here are more detailed pictures of it.

http://brickspeed.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=544

From what I'm reading you're just trying to pass tech to run 11.49 to 13.49 in a convertible? I recommend snagging (or downloading) a copy of the NHRA 2015 Handbook.

TL : DR? There are certain requirements your roll bar must meet, i.e., distances from head, mounting plate size, etc. or else it won't pass NHRA req's.

I suggest contacting Auto Power and asking them specifics from the NHRA rule book, ensuring that the roll bar you purchase will pass if that's the reason of you purchasing it in the first place.

4:10 ROLL BAR All roll bars must be within 6 inches of the rear, or side, of the driver’s head, extend in height at least 3 inches above the driver’s helmet with driver in normal driving position or be within 1 inch of the roof/headliner in the area above the driver's helmet, and be at least as wide as the driver's shoulders or within 1 inch of the driver's door. Roll bar must be adequately supported or crossbraced to prevent forward or lateral collapse. Rear braces must be of the same diameter and wall thickness as the roll bar and intersect with the roll bar at a point not more than 5 inches from the top of the roll bar. Crossbar and rear braces must be welded to main hoop. Sidebar must be included on driver’s side and must pass the driver at a point midway between the shoulder and elbow. Swing-out sidebar permitted. All roll bars must have in their construction a cross bar for seat bracing and as the shoulder harness attachment point; cross bar must be installed no more than 4 inches below, and not above, the driver’s shoulders or to side bar. All vehicles with OEM frame must have roll bar welded or bolted to frame; installation of frame connectors on unibody cars does not constitute a frame; therefore it is not necessary to have the roll bar attached to the frame. Unibody cars with stock floor and firewall (wheeltubs permitted) may attach roll bar with 6-inch x 6-inch x .125-inch 1" 12" 4:8 4:8 steel plates on top and bottom of floor bolted together with at least four 3/8-inch bolts and nuts, or weld main hoop to rocker sill area with .125-inch reinforcing plates, with plates welded completely. Also, the roll bar may be welded to frame connectors that are fully welded in place and are 1 5/8 inches x .118-inch MS or .083-inch CM round and/or 2 inch x 2 inch x .058 MS or CM rectangular. All 4130 chromoly tube welding must be done by approved TIG heliarc process; mild steel welding must be done by approved MIG wire feed or approved TIG heliarc process. Welding must be free of slag and porosity. Any grinding of welds prohibited. See illustration. Roll bar must be padded anywhere driver’s helmet may contact it while in driving position. Adequate padding must have minimum 1/4-inch compression or meet SFI Spec 45.1.

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As far as the under carriage bracing goes, I don't see why it would hurt chassis rigidity.
 
Corey, I wanted to know if AB had any undercarriage bracing (and not Autopower bar) ;)

The convertible "roll bar rule" is fairly loose, they do not typically stick to the same level of scrutiny as 10-11.49 cars. For instence, if your convertible car came with ANY bar from the factory, they usually let it count. I have seen others being allowed to run high 11's using otherwise illegal Autopower bolt-in bar.
 
Corey, I wanted to know if AB had any undercarriage bracing (and not Autopower bar) ;)

The convertible "roll bar rule" is fairly loose, they do not typically stick to the same level of scrutiny as 10-11.49 cars. For instence, if your convertible car came with ANY bar from the factory, they usually let it count. I have seen others being allowed to run high 11's using otherwise illegal Autopower bolt-in bar.
I get that but going to multiple track events myself, 9 times out of 10 I don't get asked to even pop my hood. They look at my helmet and sign my tech form, done! At least once a year I get Nazi Dan who blouses his jeans into his boots and thinks he's a Retired Police Captain and he looks at EVERYTHING. If you're going to spend money on a roll bar to pass tech, spend money on a roll bar that's going to pass tech every time whether you've got a mouth breather looking over your car or a tech inspector that would write his own mom a jay walking ticket on an empty street.
 
I want to create something that will clear rear passenger by a “good amount” and will allow for generous padding. At this point, I am only after a “roll bar”, which will allow me to run 11.50-12.99, NHRA rules for those are pretty vague, so a simple 4 point bar should do the trick. I might even start with Autopower bolt-in bar and see how that working out. If I like it, might go for a real, weld-in cage to resemble it.

Being a convertible with either a cage or bar, having passengers in the seats while having a functional top is going to be the issue. I could have ran the rear bars up over the rear seat so I "could" have a person or people in the back but it would have hindered the use of the top. I would rather have the top down than shove people in the back, thats why I opted to run the rear bars the way I did. I think this is going to be where you have a decision to make as well.
 
Wow cant believe i didnt post "finished" pics. I called it quits after the 6 pt because i ran out of time. But itll do for now!! I still haven't gotten around to getting the side panels in and the rear seat back modified to fit around the cage but its drivable so I didn't care.

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