HOOCH256 said:

I've got an HX35 on my car and it has the BEP .55 A/R housing, well as we all know its the standard Mitsubishi flange and I'd like to upgrade to a divided T3 flange and tubular mani (most likely will fab my own). Now my question is the BEP .70 A/R housing my only option? Cause Id really like to have a .63 A/R, I thought I'd seen one before but I've searched high and low and can only find the .70 A/R T3 housing.

Thanks for the info

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As far as I know they only make .63's for the hx40. I personally would go with a .70 A/R Bep

I ran an undivided .63 A/R T3 housing on my HX35 that I got from a member on here. I'll send you his info via PM.

91tsi_awd said:

As far as I know they only make .63's for the hx40. I personally would go with a .70 A/R Bep

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I thought about that but I already feel the .55 A/R is a bit laggy, at least that's how it feels compared to my 20g SR20 that I just sold! I feel the .63 will be a nice compromise between the two options!

Thanks for the info Keri

The pickings are slim for housing manufactured to bolt an hx35/40 to even a T3 manifold unless you get one of the OEM dodge twin scrolls like the one i sold not too long ago on here to jusmx, might wanna PM him and ask if he still has it, he said they moved fast though and took it as soon as i listed it. so it might be gone already. i didn'thave the time to mess with it or i might have played with the TS setup more.. personally i think the .55 is too small... the difference i felt in movig from a .48 turbine to the .63 back on my 57 trim was something i felt was almost key to making the car really pull in the top end. it felt almost as notable as going from OEM to 364/272 cams and needed a retune for AFR safety... i lost about 150-200rpm of spool, but what i gained was an engine that pulled hard and revved out clean over 8k RPM which it never did before the turbine housing upgrade. And most turbos that spool that early just aren't impressive once you've felt the pull of something like an hx35 that starts to put you in a semi-large turbo category. Since even having the 57 trim, no matter how quick the car can ET at the 1320, there just hasn't been what i call an "impressive ride" in a car with a 16g of any sorts.. you really have to decide on having a car with a near OEM feel, (or boost gauge performance which is useless when an engine that's making 12psi at 3k RPM is getting pulled on by an engine making 3psi at the same - basically, i don'thave boost anywhere near OEM style readouts but my car pulls harder withoutthe boost at that low of an RPM anyway, because of the build, all the tweaking and the actual airflow, which boost means little if it doesn't move the CFM neeeded to make power over stock)

As far as lag, I don't see anyway to think about calling it lag with my setup which is just a plain .63 a/r t3 housing machined to hold the holset turbine wheel and center section. I machined a twin scroll for a tuner's member in FL last summer, but never really saw results posted on it, but it was also a .84 a/r housing.

Another point to consider is that larger turbos makin good HP numbers, when spooled too early don't really do much, and making the kinda torque you can generate by doing so really only serves to kill transmission s and other driveline parts as you're not gonna be anywhere in the range of 4k RPM and less diring a full on WOT pull..that being said, i can have my external wastegate opened well before 4k RPM in higher gears and to be honest, although a good bragging point for spool, it's really useless to do so as the engine doesn't make good use of the airflow's potential power at that low of an RPM. These engines don't start to come alive till about 4500 and above, and i feel at a disadvantage in a race if i'm not at least above 5200 RPM (although i can spool WAY before that point and have a relatively mild build)

all rambling aside, I think that you will forget about what you're considering LAG once you learn to drive a larger turbo setup and just downshift a gear if you're below 4k RPM and need more power than what an hx35 with supporting mods will generate for some reason... honestly i can't say enough that my car has more than most others well before i'm in what i call my powerband, then once the engine is wound up and screaming it's a completely enveloping experience that makes you forget about any low RPM performance you might gain..;plus as i said, making too much boost/piower too early just generates knock and breaks parts with torque

Very good points, it def puts things into perspective with the whole lag scene. So if I look at it from a different stand point my main reason for wanting the different housing is to get rid of the restrictive Evo DP and also to step to a T3 tubular mani. Cause as the car sits right now it hits 25psi like a freight train and is just violent to say the least! I want to keep the car boosting at the 30 range is kinda my goal and just have a down right nasty lil sleeper

I have the Holset HX35 7 blade on the T3 .70 A/R and I love it. I'm also at 25psi and it feels great!

I'm with ^^^ him!!! I have ran all 3 housings. .55, .63 & .70 I didn't really notice much difference in the .55 & .63 in peak airflow. I also didn't notice much difference in spool-up with the .63 & .70 AR. If anything, I would say the .70 has a tad quicker spool up due to relative airflow at the same boost level.

IMO lag is relative. I hit full boost (35 psi making 32 lb/min) at 3900-4000 with the .55 AR. I hit full boost (35psi making 40 lb/min) at 4500-4600 rpms with the .70AR. Even though full boost is 600-700 rpms later, the airflow is significantly higher when it reaches full boost. I see 32 lb/min at 26-28 psi at 4300 rpms with the .70 AR.

The .63 AR is available at http://timsturbos.com/products/turbine-housings

I am finally very happy with both spool up and peak airflow using the .70 A/R BEP housing. Its just as fast in the low/mid range as it was with the .55 AR BEP, but now I hit 58-60 lb/min at peak airflow instead of 55-56 lb/min. Go with a full 3" O2 housing and 3" DP to get the full top end performance. The 2.5" housing I had was too restrictive!

Thanks for all the great info sounds like the .70 might be the way to go, so far seems highly rated by you guys. And I gotta trust your guys opinion cause you've tried then all, so I can go off your trial and error

Alright here is another question, how are you guys measuring how much air your flowing?

I measure mass airflow via MAS calibrated Speed Density

HOOCH256 said:

I've got an HX35 on my car and it has the BEP .55 A/R housing, well as we all know its the standard Mitsubishi flange and I'd like to upgrade to a divided T3 flange and tubular mani (most likely will fab my own). Now my question is the BEP .70 A/R housing my only option? Cause Id really like to have a .63 A/R, I thought I'd seen one before but I've searched high and low and can only find the .70 A/R T3 housing.

Thanks for the info

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I'm confused as neither the Garrett .63 or BEP .70 housings are divided.


If you want divided, use a factory 12cm HX35 housing. They're easy to find.

If you want single-scroll, use the .70 a/r. They're about as cheap as any other option, and they're proven.

If you're still considering the .63 housing you should definitely get a Genuine Garrett housing machined. I had a customer run one of Tim's Turbo's .63 T3 housings and the results were similar to the .55 BEP housing concerning backpressure. Either the .63 just isn't enough for the HX35 turbine, or the Tim's housings aren't .63 as advertised.



Another single-scroll suggestion to consider is to use a HY35 instead of the HX. It comes with a 9cm (roughly .65 a/r) single-scroll T3 housing on it from the factory.

HX35 left, HY35 right.

I'd never get a tims turbo housing. Either BEP or have someone machine a 5bolt svo style t3. Then you can run it with a T'netics style manifold. Maybe a .82 t3 5 bolt is the sweet spot?

If you were creative you could put it in a 9cm HY/HE housing... It's possible.

JusMX141 said:

I'm confused as neither the Garrett .63 or BEP .70 housings are divided.


If you want divided, use a factory 12cm HX35 housing. They're easy to find.

If you want single-scroll, use the .70 a/r. They're about as cheap as any other option, and they're proven.

If you're still considering the .63 housing you should definitely get a Genuine Garrett housing machined. I had a customer run one of Tim's Turbo's .63 T3 housings and the results were similar to the .55 BEP housing concerning backpressure. Either the .63 just isn't enough for the HX35 turbine, or the Tim's housings aren't .63 as advertised.



Another single-scroll suggestion to consider is to use a HY35 instead of the HX. It comes with a 9cm (roughly .65 a/r) single-scroll T3 housing on it from the factory.

HX35 left, HY35 right.

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Are you saying that a housing from tim's is not a genuine garrett? and it does not perform like a garrett housing would?

I wish I would have known before I wasted my time and money getting one to work on my setup. Here is the .70 & .63 side by side. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/turbo-system-tech/436168-holset-turbos-part-9-a-3.html#post153117801

Appologies for bringing up a dead thread..... sorta, does anoyone make a twin scroll housing? trying to decide on housing size to go with support 500-600 ponies.

All OEM Holset HX35s are T3 divided housings; the stock 12cm housing on Doge Rams being the most desirable of the bunch for DSMs.