Quick spool and 600HP shouldn't be in the same paragraph .

Reassess your goal. Ive seen 140hp Hondas demolish 600hp c7's at autocross. You do not want anywhere near that hp.

i thought it over and im going for something like 380-400 with a mhi 16g maybe

605jdm said:

i thought it over and im going for something like 380-400 with a mhi 16g maybe

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Consider a 20G, you might want more power down the road.

boOst and Jaklandry bring up some spot on points. Last thing you want to worry about is trying to hit nitrous to spool a massive turbo while trying to brake and steer at the same time. Personally I'd go with the Fp68hta, it is a fast spooling monster of a turbo. I'd put a lot of the focus into the cars handling with minimal engine mod's besides making sure the engine is staying oiled under all braking, accelerating and cornering conditions. Longevity is just as important as power especially for a dsm .

Autocross is generally a fairly low speed (Maybe hit 60 on a straight) course of obstacles. A large turbo on a DSM would be off throttle when just beginning to build boost. When boost would kick in, it would be too much all at once. I HIGHLY encourage that you try out an autocross as your car is. You will also want to familiarize yourself with the rules in each classing before you decide on a build. Suspension, tires, and seat time will be the best performance modifications for success in autocross. Be aware that swapping the turbocharger will jump you right into a modified class. If you still insist on upgrading, I would suggest something that builds boost quickly such as the T-28 (my personal recommendation), 14b, or any 16g series turbo. Any larger, and you will have the issues described at the beginning of this post. For some DSM specific autocross (albeit somewhat outdated), please check out these links:

• /http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/dsmtuners-com-scca-solo-autocross-guide.451628/

• http://farnorthracing.com/autocross/what.html

I compete with a multi time SCCA national champion who won Street Mod in his Evo a few years ago. We had a conversation about SM and his opinion was it would take 450 WHP/WTQ to be competitive in a DSM in Street Mod. That is taking into consideration the 2.0 minimum weight of 2820.
Assuming no more issues with my now 3 year engine build, I should get to some events this year with my car in SM. I'm using a 68HTA and initially tuning for 93 octane, so I'm not expecting to make 450 right away.

ileagleracing said:

I compete with a multi time SCCA national champion who won Street Mod in his Evo a few years ago. We had a conversation about SM and his opinion was it would take 450 WHP/WTQ to be competitive in a DSM in Street Mod. That is taking into consideration the 2.0 minimum weight of 2820.
Assuming no more issues with my now 3 year engine build, I should get to some events this year with my car in SM. I'm using a 68HTA and initially tuning for 93 octane, so I'm not expecting to make 450 right away.

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If you don't mind me asking, what is the basis of the hp number being 450?

Maddashimports-Matt said:

I'd put a lot of the focus into the cars handling with minimal engine mod's besides making sure the engine is staying oiled under all braking, accelerating and cornering conditions.

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+1
My suggestion would be to look at the Street Touring Xtreme rules and start there. Then once you make the car handle, skip the headache that is A Street Prepared and go to Street Mod (but don't forget the Accusump, you'll need it to run wide hoosiers and keep your motor lubricated).

2gmitsueclipse said:

If you don't mind me asking, what is the basis of the hp number being 450?

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We had a 20 minute conversation standing around at an autox, he based it on a racing weight of 2820 and running a 285 Hoosier. He didn't seem to think that more than 450 would be usable in an autox situation without a wider tire.

Increased displacement would help with low end torque. And higher compression would help with throttle response off boost. But with high compression and high boost may need meth injection or race gas.

ileagleracing said:

I'm using a 68HTA and initially tuning for 93 octane, so I'm not expecting to make 450 right away.

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What version of the 68HTA are you using?

I bought it from a guy on DSMLink Forums back in 2012, new, ported with external wastegate.

im going with a form of 16g. maybe stroking it? iv been reading alot and it sounds like a bad idea. and for he nitrous i wouldn't have to hit any buttons i could just get a circuit make to send out 12v when 100% throttle and <4500 rpm.

605jdm said:

im going with a form of 16g. maybe stroking it? iv been reading alot and it sounds like a bad idea. and for he nitrous i wouldn't have to hit any buttons i could just get a circuit make to send out 12v when 100% throttle and <4500 rpm.

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I'm sticking with a 2 liter, not sure how serious your build is going to be, but Street Modified has minimum weight based on engine displacement. 2820 minimum for a 2.0, add 30 lbs for each .1 liter displacement increase (so a 2.3 min weight is 2910). If you run a 275mm or narrower tire you can subtract 200 lbs.

FYI, I'm not sure with non-afiliated clubs, but SCCA won't let you autocross with nitro in the car, bottle has to be removed. Meth injection is not allowed under SM rules, but race gas is.

your car stock with nice tires and suspension would kill a 600hp eclipse on stock tires and suspension i personally think

ileagleracing said:

I'm sticking with a 2 liter, not sure how serious your build is going to be, but Street Modified has minimum weight based on engine displacement. 2820 minimum for a 2.0, add 30 lbs for each .1 liter displacement increase (so a 2.3 min weight is 2910). If you run a 275mm or narrower tire you can subtract 200 lbs.

FYI, I'm not sure with non-afiliated clubs, but SCCA won't let you autocross with nitro in the car, bottle has to be removed. Meth injection is not allowed under SM rules, but race gas is.

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is the 2820 with the driver? i already have some weight reduction like carbon fiber hood, battery, rims, gutted in the trunk and maybe more carbon fiber.

Lots of good information in this thread from ileagleracing.

I also compete pretty heavily in AX running SM class. Check out my build thread for more details.

Up until the end of the 2015 season, I was running an MHI 20g on E85. The car was making great power and I was staying very competative with a few FTDs and a class win at almost every even. Do a lot of research. Being "competative" in AX isnt about power, but a DSM is a great platform to have a lot of fun in.

Like I said ileagleracing is spot on.

IF I WERE YOU:
Start racing the car as it is. Keep it stock, in a stock class. Learn how to drive the car in its stock setting and push it to its limits. Once youve met those limits, then start modding and moving up classes (if you want). You will then grow and learn with the car. I think this would be the most rewarding route to go.
I took a year and learned how to drive fast on sh*t tires. Then moved to AX/race tires and was that much faster.

Take your time. The #1 thing you need....seat time, seat time, seat time. You wont be fast right off the bat, but if you put the time in and learn how to drive the car and learn how to analize a course, you will become a better/faster driver.


And yes, no Nitro or Meth at SCCA events.

would a carbon fiber hood bump me up in the classes? I read alot of the class rules and it sounds like i cant do stock but maybe street prepared then?

also i already have a nice thick rear sway bar and strut braces. I will be getting nice tires just for racing also.

Minimum weights in the Street Mod do not include driver.
In Street Mod you can replace the front fenders, front & rear bumper covers & hood with carbon fiber, fiberglass, even cardboard if you want. Can't do the rear hatch because the rules specifically state only trunks without glass can be changed (giving us hatchbacks the finger). You can't "gut" the car at all, but the rules allow for rear seats to be removed. Sway bars and strut tower braces are allowed as well.

If your car is actually 100% stock, buy a set of Koni yellow shocks, put on a big rear bar, a light weight cat back (or straight pipe) and some 225/40/17 Bridgestone RE-71Rs on stock sized wheels and run in D Street. Assuming you have the rear LSD, run 1/4 total toe out. That will be least expensive way to maximize a DSM for autocross. Like GofaST4life said, seat time will make you faster.

You can find the SCCA Solo rules here http://www.scca.com/downloads , I think there's a SM rules thread here on tuners but it may not be up to date.

ileagleracing said:

Minimum weights in the Street Mod do not include driver.
In Street Mod you can replace the front fenders, front & rear bumper covers & hood with carbon fiber, fiberglass, even cardboard if you want. Can't do the rear hatch because the rules specifically state only trunks without glass can be changed (giving us hatchbacks the finger). You can't "gut" the car at all, but the rules allow for rear seats to be removed. Sway bars and strut tower braces are allowed as well.

If your car is actually 100% stock, buy a set of Koni yellow shocks, put on a big rear bar, a light weight cat back (or straight pipe) and some 225/40/17 Bridgestone RE-71Rs on stock sized wheels and run in D Street. Assuming you have the rear LSD, run 1/4 total toe out. That will be least expensive way to maximize a DSM for autocross. Like GofaST4life said, seat time will make you faster.

You can find the SCCA Solo rules here http://www.scca.com/downloads , I think there's a SM rules thread here on tuners but it may not be up to date.

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My car is 99% stock right now. If i got all of the mods you listed would i compete in D street prepared? would the carbon fiber hood bump me up to street modified? and i just put in an electric cutout at the downpipe, would this be illegal in autoX?

Also would i need to get stock rims for street prepared? i do not have the stock rims so i would need to buy some.

Please check the scca website for Solo rules by class. It outlines the restrictions for each class. If the rules do not state than you can, it is not a modification that is acceptable for your class.