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built motor decision

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PlanZero

Proven Member
1,516
263
Aug 13, 2013
Easton, Pennsylvania
Ive decided to get a used built motor instead of just replacing the block with another used block of questionable longevity. Although this car is still on stock turbo I'd rather spend the money now and not have to worry about later. I'm going to have the motor installed by fellow dsmer. Im looking at two options right now: 1). 7 bolt, wiseco pistons, eagle rods, ARP headstuds, OEM cams, components, belts, etc. , approximately 375 miles. Will cost about 2300 if I help with the swap (local). Dont have all the info yet. Or 2) 7 bolt block
With 6 bolt head, evo 9 pistons, OEM rods, crank, seals, BC cams, arp studs, 3g lifters, gates kevlar timing belt, etc. With about 10k miles on it, approximately $2300
Towed and installed, about 1.5 hours away.
Both motors come from a reputable source. If I go with the first option I will get it done faster and gain the learning experience. The second option will take longer and be further away but will be done by a well known DSMer
The fact that the price is basically the same is not helping the decision . I'm going to look at the first motor tomorrow, and get some pics of the other.
I don't plan on building this girl much, but I'd rather have more than a stock rebuild just in case, and if I can get a decent deal why not.
My gut's leaning towards #1
 
Stupid question: I don't have link, so how much of a PITA will it be to put #1, which has a 2gb head and CAS into the 2ga (96) car? Everything I've read on this simply says to program link to invert cas. Can I switch the ecu to a 97 ecu?
 
More importantly, who were these motors built by? A stock motor is miles ahead of a poorly assembled built motor. It would be wise to pull the oil pan and check the bearings. If everything checks out then #1 is a much better deal imho.
 
Ok for various reasons I'm going with #1. The big factor was time. We can install it by this weekend. Also, the motor was built by a shop in Pittsburgh and there's plenty of pictures and receipts. I was mistaken; it has Manley pistons, eagle rods, ARP head studs, cometic hg, bse, gates water pump (I would prefer OEM), brand new OEM timing belt, and very conveniently has a 2ga head, cams and cas.
There is the slightest amount of carbon blackening in the exhaust runners (the PO still had egr, not sure why) but overall a very clean motor, and was only run with a T25. My friend I'm getting it from got it from his buddy who owns a very reputable DSM shop and made sure there was documentation before he bought the motor. The PO was apparently upgrading his entire setup.
I'm using my freshly wrinkled valve cover, intake manifold (ported for 1g tb), month old OEM harmonic balancer, new exhaust studs and fuel injector seals.
Since the motor has less than 500 miles on it I'm considering using regular oil instead of the T6 I have in my closet. Hopefully the motor was broken in properly.
I'm also going to thoroughly examine the turbo when we pull the motor and have a backup T25 just in case.
I'll let you know how it turns out. I'll either be extremely happy or severely pissed.
 
I know he's your friend and all so it might be awkward but I would make him sign a waiver stating the motor is good with no knocks, ticks, or burning of oil. Take it from someone that got screwed over before on a used motor purchase.It had a supposed fresh stock 6 bolt rebuild and ran just for the break in period. Almost $1000 and a long weekend later, the motor was in my car. Started it up and guess what.. ROD knock. I text the seller and he says I did something with the motor to make it knock. Needless to say, I was pissed. I ended up selling the car as is for an OK price but still got screwed.
 
Well we finally got the motor in. What a chaotic adventure that was, but I'm glad I got the learning experience. My t25 was also obliterated so we put another used t25 on just to get her up and running.
She started right up, idles perfect, but now experiencing misfire under boost. My BPR6ES are gapped to .028, wires are almost new, no boost leaks, no CEL. Since the car is still at my buddy's I'm having him check timing and compression, as well as check connections for the CAS, since the PO had a 2gb CAS installed on the 2ga head but left the 2ga CAS intact, which I'm using. Updates to come.
 
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