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GVR-4 Questions on VR-4s

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xdoboi

Probationary Member
18
0
Apr 8, 2015
West Bend, Wisconsin
Hey guys, I again, have a chance to get a car powered by a 4g63. This time it's a 1991 Galant VR-4. I just have some basic questions.

What are the limitations on the drivetrain? Is it as glass as dsms usually are?

Does the turning rear end actually help anything? Or is it a better idea to switch to a non-turning rear end?

Do lots of parts on this car bolt up with the EVO III parts? Because I see lots of people swap parts form these cars into the VR-4s. (Trans, interior parts, etc etc)

Thanks, I hope i can finally scoop up a AWD DSM.
 
If you have an opportunity to scoop up a VR4 in decent condition, just go for it. These cars are fairly special, irregardless of performance.

For some of your other questions:

Transmission: Depends very strongly on you and your driving habits. Not bulletproof drivelines, but neither is an xtrac trans in a WRC car because they get abused. However, there are options from multiple builders (Jack's, TRE, etc...) to beefen up the trans

Rear steering: I'm not a big fan because the wheels turn in the same direction as the fronts, which is good for stability, but not so good for promoting oversteer. My solution was to pick up an entire 4-bolt 1g subframe, including diff and axles, and swap that in.

EVO 3 parts: I don't have alot of experience here, but I know the EVO 1 essentially stole the drivetrain out of the GVR4, hence 'EVO 0' as a nickname for these cars.
 
On my VR4 I've had an Evo 3 turbo, Evo 3 intake, Evo 3 exhaust manifold, Evo3 o2 housing, Evo 8 injectors, Evo 8 MAF, and Evo 8 shocks and springs. So, yes many Evo parts will swap over.
 
This one has a big 16g turbo, rebuilt internals with pistons that are bored .50 over, studded head, and a bunch of new engine parts, with new rod and main bearings. It needs a new fuel line though, how touh or expensive is the job? What would be it's estimated hp with a tune?
 
This one has a big 16g turbo, rebuilt internals with pistons that are bored .50 over, studded head, and a bunch of new engine parts, with new rod and main bearings. It needs a new fuel line though, how touh or expensive is the job? What would be it's estimated hp with a tune?

If it comes with all these goodies and all it needs is a fuel line (which is easy, assuming that's the problem), I'm kinda wondering what you're waiting on, bra.
 
To sell my tuned 9000 Aero. Bra. Lol. But other than the rear steering it's a 4 door dsm?
 
To sell my tuned 9000 Aero. Bra. Lol. But other than the rear steering it's a 4 door dsm?

Yes and no.

Yes in the sense that there are quite a few mechanical bits that interchange between a 1g dsm, evo 1-3, and the VR4, no in the sense that they only brought 3000 to the states. If you screw something up GVR4 specific, I assure you, you will wait much longer and spend much more money finding replacement parts than you would with a comparable 1g.









bra
 
I would understand that, seeing as the low number in the states. The rear end swap sounds like a pain though. What do most people do for higher powered street cars that are used on the weekends for autox and hillclimbs handling and drivetrain wise?
 
B R A,

If you're interested, galantvr4.org has some pretty good build threads with a pretty wide variety of cars.

Here are a few examples:

GSTwithPSI has my favorite build thread on his most recent purchase: http://www.galantvr4.org/ubbthreads...00&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1&vc=1

My build is in its infancy: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1992-vr4-71-1000.488672/

Rather than speak outside of my own knowledge/experience I'll roughly outline my goals and associated build plans:

Goals:
-My car will be a daily driver used for occassional autox (drag racing not really my thing)
-I'm stopping at or below 400whp to have some hope of a reliable car

Handling:
-Swapped in the 4-bolt rear to gain strength/LSD functionality/predictable handling
-5-lug conversion for increased wheel/brake selection
-Will eventually swap in some coilovers
-EVO 8 wheels
-Tires will depend on what's performing best in SCCA for a given year

Driveline:
-I'll be beefing up the trans with some sort of staged rebuild from Jack's or TRE (shot peened gears, double syncro 1-4, 4 spider center updgrade... whatever the cheapest way to achieve all this is will be my choice)
-ACT 2900 street clutch with sprung center and organic disc
-I'd like to throw in a quaife up front because torque biasing differentials are the berries

Engine:
-Kept stock pistons because they're good for 400whp (atleast) and they'll last longer than forged pistons
-Upgraded to ARP hardware (studs/rods/mains)/cometic head gasket
-3 angle valve job and revised lifters
-16g for now, will eventually switch to an 68HTA
-Will be going with DSMlink V3 ECU
-Will be going with FIC 1000CC injectors
-Will be going with Walbro 255lph in-tank fuel pump

Hopefully this gives you an idea of the scope associated with some explicit goals.
 
Why would you need to swap the rear? You can delete the 4ws and keep your stock rear end. Properly removing 4ws requires work on the rear end and the steering rack. Personally I'd keep 4ws if it's not leaking and it still works.
 
Why would you need to swap the rear? You can delete the 4ws and keep your stock rear end. Properly removing 4ws requires work on the rear end and the steering rack. Personally I'd keep 4ws if it's not leaking and it still works.

For starters, my 4ws was long gone. Second reason was because I wanted more wheel selection; 5 x 114.3 is an extremely common size. Then there was the deal maker... if you find an entire subframe assembly, like I did, swapping an entire subframe assembly is stupid simple compared to performing a 5 lug conversion, swapping in 4-bolt axles, swapping in a 4-bolt LSD, and then deleting the 4ws system.

Long story short, it was the cheapest, easiest, simplest way to get what I wanted.
 
B R A,

If you're interested, galantvr4.org has some pretty good build threads with a pretty wide variety of cars.

Here are a few examples:

GSTwithPSI has my favorite build thread on his most recent purchase: http://www.galantvr4.org/ubbthreads...00&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1&vc=1

My build is in its infancy: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1992-vr4-71-1000.488672/

Rather than speak outside of my own knowledge/experience I'll roughly outline my goals and associated build plans:

Goals:
-My car will be a daily driver used for occassional autox (drag racing not really my thing)
-I'm stopping at or below 400whp to have some hope of a reliable car

Handling:
-Swapped in the 4-bolt rear to gain strength/LSD functionality/predictable handling
-5-lug conversion for increased wheel/brake selection
-Will eventually swap in some coilovers
-EVO 8 wheels
-Tires will depend on what's performing best in SCCA for a given year

Driveline:
-I'll be beefing up the trans with some sort of staged rebuild from Jack's or TRE (shot peened gears, double syncro 1-4, 4 spider center updgrade... whatever the cheapest way to achieve all this is will be my choice)
-ACT 2900 street clutch with sprung center and organic disc
-I'd like to throw in a quaife up front because torque biasing differentials are the berries

Engine:
-Kept stock pistons because they're good for 400whp (atleast) and they'll last longer than forged pistons
-Upgraded to ARP hardware (studs/rods/mains)/cometic head gasket
-3 angle valve job and revised lifters
-16g for now, will eventually switch to an 68HTA
-Will be going with DSMlink V3 ECU
-Will be going with FIC 1000CC injectors
-Will be going with Walbro 255lph in-tank fuel pump

Hopefully this gives you an idea of the scope associated with some explicit goals.

Kind of the same plan I am creating. Just a Holset HX35 or Super 40.

Now, on to the only known problem the car has. Fuel lines. He said it was the sending line. Since I'd like to go e85 at some point, should I just get the correct lines for that? Could someone direct me to that too please? Or is that incredibly more expensive than a stock hardline. Thanks.
 
Kind of the same plan I am creating. Just a Holset HX35 or Super 40.

Now, on to the only known problem the car has. Fuel lines. He said it was the sending line. Since I'd like to go e85 at some point, should I just get the correct lines for that? Could someone direct me to that too please? Or is that incredibly more expensive than a stock hardline. Thanks.

E85 is highly corrosive and requires an entire fuel system that is up to the task. You also can't let it sit in a tank for too long. There's also the issue of the stoichiometry of E85 requiring a much larger fuel pump and bigger injectors for a given amount of airflow.
 
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I understand all that. I just want to know if I should get the correct lines now or later
 
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