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1G Aero mods

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spin1r6

10+ Year Contributor
76
6
Jan 15, 2012
Feeding Hills, Massachusetts
Decided to give some aero mods a try. Cost me about $30 in materials at Home Depot and a few hours labor. Have no idea if it will actually help or not.
 

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Guessing you need a wind tunnel or some that monitors downforce. Are you going to paint the front front peaces or leave the aluminum look.
 
Nice fab work, but what about brake duct for cooling brakes?

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I have these 3" running from the front fascia to a special fabricated piece on my knuckle just behind the rotor of my SRT8, I'm going to do the same with my talon.

Be interested in hearing back from you, again, nice work

Meech
 
I use the car for drag racing so brake ducts aren't needed for my application. For now at least I have no intentions on painting them, I like the race car look LOL. When/if I paint the shell I would consider painting them but not color matched, probably black cause I like the contrast in color so you can notice the piece, or maybe a carbon rap or even just polished.
 
I like the look, point well taken, if drag racing that's the way to go! Car looks like it was set up for the Texas Mile, an all out balls to the wall run! I like the idea of polished. Again, kudos to you for the fabrication.

Meech
 
Always on the quest to go faster. Aero mods are cheap and easy and if I pick up 1 or 2 mph then It was time and money well spent. I haven't had the opportunity to test yet as I broke the trans the same day I this work but a lot of the fast guys I see are using angry aero stuff and Evo guys saying ditching the wing gains 2-3 mph if your trapping in the 150 range. My car currently is in the low 130's so I'm curious to see if there is any gain with the mods. I plan to do a full undertray eventually as well but need to make a new exhaust 1st that tucked up tight to the floor.
 
I hear you. Back in the day I had a street talon, a 1991 1G really set up nice, but the years were not kind to it and had to let it go. Since I have been road racing a big 4000lb (without me in it) Chrysler 300C SRT8. I noticed that the competition, Camaros, Mustangs and Challengers with big V8s were barreling down the Straights at 120-140 and they would experience front end lift from the belly pans they had from the factory and in my opinion that creates more drag. To get the edge, I fabricated an AERO hood that would feed air to my Cold Air Intake and exhaust the trapped Air just in front of and up over the windshield. Result? The nose of the car would stay planted and no lift. Here are some pictures of my aero hood:


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Flat in the turns too:

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Cool to see the project in work, Aaron, you took that Link thread to heart quick! I've been wanting to do a rear tray/diffuser for some time but as mentioned in the other thread, getting the angles correct to reintroduce air to the rear stream is hard without an accurate model or windtunnel. Are you planning to do cut outs in the rear end especially once you move to a full tray? I know the idea is to keep air from getting trapped at that point, but would think the more tray work completed, the more volume there is to trap air potentially. The way the AWD gas tank and rear end are set up, it looks like a pain in the neck to make any type of full tray without leaving slits and pockets open around the suspension that will still allow for air to get trapped causing drag still. Not sure at what point enough is prevented to significantly impact performance, but since many seem to be picking up 2-4mph on the top end with different bumper mods, I'm really excited to see how this turns out for you!

BTW, what gauge sheet did you pick up and what section of HD was it in, roofing or siding maybe? Thats pretty inexpensive for actual aluminum metal prices have gone crazy I wish I could take home the composite I work with every day but thats a big no no LOL.
 
I forget the thickness. They were 3'x3' sheets and were about $20 each. I used about 1 and 1/4 sheets. They were in or near the section where you buy doors, home improvement. It was a small little rack that is easy to miss. The goal for this round of mods were to block the foglight holes which needs no explanation and although it's hard to see the rear panel is to block air to the rear bumper and eliminate the parachute effect. When I do the under tray it will just be to continue to smooth airflow and cut thru the wind. Not planning on being super high tech or blocking every crevice. I don't think I'll be cutting bumper holes or anything like that, I think this will be good enough.
 
Has anyone found advantages or disadvantages on removing inner fenders for at least the front half of the car? Should help with cooling brakes and some good airflow through the engine bay.
 
I will be doing the same this week. the last time I did it to one of my cars I wrapped it around the side of the front bumper a bit as well.
 
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