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Looking for opinions on deleting fiav on 1g TB

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PlanZero

Proven Member
1,516
263
Aug 13, 2013
Easton, Pennsylvania
I've come to realize the fiav on my 2g is going bad, as the idle takes an exceptionally long time to drop, then proceeds to drive like crap until the idle settles. I was going to block the fiav but I came across a 1g tb for a great deal. I plan on replacing the shaft seals, but obviously I won't know if the fiav works until I hook it up.
Since the 1g tb is older, I think its safe to assume the fiav is on a limited lifespan, so I am considering just blocking it (free mod) from the get go.
I live in PA. I park outside and this is my DD. How much will this affect my cold start up? I don't mind feathering the throttle a few times, but I'm not trying to sit in a freezing car for five minutes with my foot on the pedal.
Is there any way to just fix the fiav? What if I just screw the plug in a few times, and not bottom out? Just looking for input. What would you do?
 
I have my 1g TB fiav blocked off and went outside here this weekend when it was below freezing and mine started, then died, then started and fast idled while I went inside where it was nice and toasty just to give you an example. I was afraid I would have to sit outside too since I am running E85 but it took right to idling after the first time it died. I did this again the following morning and other than it cranking just a tad bit longer and that first stall, it did great. Maybe that will help you from someone who has what you are thinking of doing.
 
OK thanks. So besides cranking longer, do you put your foot on the pedal as well? I'm so fed up with this fiav BS. It literally takes 10 mins for my idle to settle, which is a total PITA when I'm leaving work at midnight, and it's only getting worse as the temperature drops outside. My other Tsi only takes 3 minutes.
 
I will be installing a 1g TB in my car as well and plan to remove the FIAV. I was hoping to ask a related question without entirely jacking the OP's thread.

Can ECMlink simulate the FIAV? i.e. can the car be tuned in a manner to compensate for the removal of the FIAV? Or are rough cold starts an inevitable result of removing the FIAV?
 
"OK thanks. So besides cranking longer, do you put your foot on the pedal as well? I'm so fed up with this fiav BS. It literally takes 10 mins for my idle to settle, which is a total PITA when I'm leaving work at midnight, and it's only getting worse as the temperature drops outside. My other Tsi only takes 3 minutes."

I never have to put my foot on my gas. In cold weather it starts after about 5 seconds of cranking and idles for about 5 seconds at a high, 1200-1500 idle then dies. Then I hit the starter and it starts up, idles fast and I go back inside. My fiav is blocked and I am running E85 but I never have to put my foot on the gas to answer your question.
This related article may be useful for you guys:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-dsmlink-v3-hard-cold-start-help.463597/
 
Well I attempted to do the free mod delete and that plastic cross won't budge. It will break if I force it any more. So I put the freeze plug back and ordered the plate. I just replaced the shaft seals, (metal !)biss o ring, and IAC. I'm really tempted to just put it on now to see how the fiav is, but I'm also not trying to put on a bypass plate in the freezing cold after I find out the fiav is bad.
 
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