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2G 2g Stock 7 Bolt Auto Street/Strip What Turbo?

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1slowhatch

Proven Member
172
2
Mar 5, 2014
Reno, Nevada
I recently purchased a 2g Auto TSI AWD with a broken timing belt. Car is getting a rebuilt head, upgraded valve springs, Felpro gasket, standard ARP head studs, balance shaft delete, new timing components, etc. Stock bottom end, stock cams (for now). I plan to do a big in tank pump (255 or 400 lph Walbro), injectors, DSM link, etc. It has a stock automatic, I would like to keep the stock converter for mileage, stock lock up but add a shift kit, shift box, etc. This will be a daily driver, I want to keep all accessories, A/C, etc. I want a turbo that is reasonable to spool (although I don't need instant response, I'm not afraid of nitrous for drag strip). I've been looking at a FP red with ported stock 2g manifold or maybe a HX35 with a bolt housing. I want enough turbo to easily max out the stock internals. Pump gas power is important, as E85 is no longer available in my area. What is the best way to go? I'm leaning towards the bolt on Holset set up.
 
1Slow: Welcome to DSM Tuners. Please add your vehicle to your profile page so it will make it easier to help you in future posts.

Everyone on here has their own "best way to go" based on many characteristics they want: Driveability, reliability, use (street, strip, track), budget, etc. You are in a good position to determine your goals and do your build accordingly. Sounds like you have begun that process.

One thing that gets overlooked, too often, is the bottom end. You didn't mention the mileage on the engine, or even confirm it is a 7-bolt. You could do yourself no better favor than to pull the engine -- now -- and rebuild the bottom end before the go-fast goodies take their toll on your well-worn bearings. If you think bolt-on parts are expensive, wait until you grenade the engine and have to start with all new internals!

Pull the engine and get it to an engine builder. While the bottom end is being done, do some reading on this forum, share your goal characteristics with us in more detail, and talk with your engine builder and other experienced DSM drivers. The more specific you get, or the more specific your questions, the more we can help.

You'll be the happiest with your build when it meets your goals and expectations.
 
The car has around 115k miles. I understand the rods are usually the wink link. The goal with this car was to leave the bottom end stock and see how much power I could make. If do hurt the bottom end, I could then build the bottom end or purchase a different short block.

It is tempting to build the bottom end now as black Friday deals have made eagle rod/wiseco piston combos inexpensive. Is 400 whp realistic with the stock short block if in good condition?
 
115k miles isn't bad, but the fact that the valves hammered the pistons when the timing belt broke didn't help your bearings, or rods. As you probably know, buying a non-running car is a gamble. Hopefully, the pistons and rods are okay. Breaking the belt at idle, is much different than breaking the belt near redline.

Is 400whp realistic with a stock bottom end? It's been talked about on here that the AWD system can be up to 25%, or more, driveline HP loss. That means that you would have to be about 540hp at the crank. It might work on a stock bottom end -- for a short while, but it will require much equipment up top to make it happen.

Unless you have alternate transportation and a place to work on the car disassembled for long periods of time, you will like your DSM experience best if you just pull the engine and build it from the bottom up. If you need resources to find an engine builder, or even help pulling your engine, the members on here are very helpful.
 
Well, a Red has recently one 10.50 with a reasonably built car. Base your needs off that. Do you want to cage the car? Then likely don't need a Red.

My advice: for a fun street car, go with the smallest turbo you need for you power goals. Maybe look into one of the many 20G variants, 7cm 06SL2 and a decent billet wheel.

There will also be a slew of 68HTA's for sale used shortly as FP just had a blow out sale on them.
 
115k miles isn't bad, but the fact that the valves hammered the pistons when the timing belt broke didn't help your bearings, or rods. As you probably know, buying a non-running car is a gamble. Hopefully, the pistons and rods are okay. Breaking the belt at idle, is much different than breaking the belt near redline.

Is 400whp realistic with a stock bottom end? It's been talked about on here that the AWD system can be up to 25%, or more, driveline HP loss. That means that you would have to be about 540hp at the crank. It might work on a stock bottom end -- for a short while, but it will require much equipment up top to make it happen.

Unless you have alternate transportation and a place to work on the car disassembled for long periods of time, you will like your DSM experience best if you just pull the engine and build it from the bottom up. If you need resources to find an engine builder, or even help pulling your engine, the members on here are very helpful.

I do have alternate transportation and understand the possible down time. I have a Mustang that should run 10's at sea level, so I know what can be required. The Mustang is pretty quick, but not so much fun on the street. ( No accessories, no overdrive, etc).

Plan was to put this car back to together with the new head, head studs, reliability parts, timing parts, etc and see how it drives. (Check transmission out, axle shafts, brakes, see how the engine runs, etc). If it seems to do well, then I'll swap the turbo+manifold, fuel system, ecmlink, ecu, fuel pump, upgrade transmission parts, etc.

From your recommendation, I should either build the bottom end now, or leave it stock and shoot for a lower hp number? If I were to build the bottom end, any shops on the west coast you could recommend? I'm in Northern Nevada, 2.5 hrs from Sacramento, CA.
 
Well, a Red has recently one 10.50 with a reasonably built car. Base your needs off that. Do you want to cage the car? Then likely don't need a Red.

My advice: for a fun street car, go with the smallest turbo you need for you power goals. Maybe look into one of the many 20G variants, 7cm 06SL2 and a decent billet wheel.

There will also be a slew of 68HTA's for sale used shortly as FP just had a blow out sale on them.

I have been looking at the 68hta's closely. My concern is that they would have a hard time putting out 400, especially on anything other than race gas (no E85 here).

Caging the car is the last of my worries. It would likely only be ran at T & T nights, when you can usually get away with a pass or 2 before that being a problem. Even if it came to that, I have a welder and shop space to do it.
 
If you're not sure about a 68hta then for sure go with a red of a 3076. By far my favorite turbo has been a 20G followed closely by a 3076.
 
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