The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Register Log in
Please Support RTM Racing
Please Support STM Tuned

2G running hot at idle STUMPED

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

cumpersgsx

15+ Year Contributor
426
1
Jul 25, 2005
Detroit, Michigan
I'm having trouble getting temps down to normal. This all started last season and i still haven't been able to figure out this nightmare. Temp at idle will reach 210*, the fans turn on and are pushing/pulling correctly. The only way to get temps down is to turn the heat on full blast along with the rad fans going. That gets the temps down to 200* at best. I've searched the threads for ideas and can't seem to figure it out. My values are being monitored by dsmlink. I've tried keeping the fans turned on and never seem to change the temp. The only thing I can think of is to get another thermostat and double check it with boiling water and possibly drill a hole in it.

things i've tried:
bleeding(burping) the system
verified there was no heat soak from the ex mani
new full size aluminum rad
new rad cap
new thermostat x2
new sensors
new fluid
new water pump
new head gasket
adding fans
switched to a half rad
 
Sort by date Sort by votes
keltalon said:
Good question! I have found that a lot of the ebay aluminum radiators are single core units that don't cool worth a flip. temperature rising over 100 degree sometime here in ga. What type of fans are you running? Do you know the core count of the radiator? Very good suggestion stated above switch back to stock radiator and stock fans to see if this helps.
Click to expand...
My brand new Spal fans came in this week Kels. So I have to plan on a day in the next two weeks to install them. I also have a fluidyne radiator. I'm leaning toward the issue being the fans and maybe the 1g coolant sensor having the present fan run super erratic. You can see the coolant numbers logging all over the place and the fan just cutting on and off on and off until I set the link to keep the fans on all the time then everything calms down.

If nothing else works I would perhaps consider a different radiator as a last resort. However I mentioned that car runs cool at idle but fans must stay on all the time so as I think on it maybe the issue with the sensor itself. I think you and I may have discussed this a while back using a 1g sensor instead of the 2g sensor that I may have an issue down the road. Problem will be finding a 2g plug that's why I went with the 1g sensor.
 
Last edited:
Upvote0
Upvote0
NHerron said:
It's been a while since I've worked on mine. But this what I'm talkin bout yo:


And I didn't notice the erratic sensor output info before. That's the classic sign for air in system, sensor not being submerged at all times:
8
Click to expand...
Please speak pure English not ebonics man!! I can do that but not in a public platform thanks.
However I never said anything about a radiator sensor not in use or missing ,again 2gs do not have radiator sensors in the radiator . I wil look into the very things you have mentioned prior though. They are good points and things I need to look over. I'm sure I have no air in the system but it won't hurt to check.thanks and good advice my friend.
 
Upvote0
Hmm, I think I remember you a couple years ago. Yup- I remember. You know, its kinda tacky for OPs to be selective with the advice given to them and be a whiney nitpicker.

And FYI- No such thing as pure English, JACKAZZ. No way is *the third most common native language* ever going to be pure.

Glad I could help, up until now.
Happy thanksgiving :D
 
Upvote0
NHerron said:
Hmm, I think I remember you a couple years ago. Yup- I remember. You know, its kinda tacky for OPs to be selective with the advice given to them and be a whiney nitpicker.

And FYI- No such thing as pure English, JACKAZZ. No way is *the third most common native language* ever going to be pure.

Glad I could help, up until now.
Happy thanksgiving :D
Click to expand...
Thank you ass clown! Be yourself and nobody else when trying to speak and give advice!! Check your grammar dope you know what I mean!
 
Last edited:
Upvote0
keltalon said:
What type of fans are you running? Do you know the core count of the radiator? Very good suggestion stated above switch back to stock radiator and stock fans to see if this helps.
Click to expand...

Sorry for the late reply. One combo was (1G) a standard Mishimoto rad (wasn't needed until summer), one large OEM fan and one Mishimoto slim fan; Second was (2G) Ebay dual core aluminum rad, two SPAL fans wired together; Third combo (2G) was a Fluidlyne dual core rad with two FAL fans. Fourth combo, and most current (2G) is a AFCO Sirocco style rad with one single FAL fan, thats had its shroud hacked up on one side, and unlike the other combos (which were always behind a VRSF FMIC core, this one sits behind a 5" ETS core and uses Davies Craig water pump WITH the top mount setup (uncoated) and just a turbo blanket that is sandwiched by an extremely tight fit with the hotside. This setup only touched 220*F once, on the way to the shootout sitting in very heavy cleaveland traffic (weren't moving at all for over 5 min at times!). However even that isnt very accurate, because the way I had the overflow setup (last minute idea), it was drawing in air. Once I changed that, it actually began to run too cold at idle and cruise (150*F range)!
 
Upvote0
renovatdkitchen said:
Sorry for the late reply. One combo was (1G) a standard Mishimoto rad (wasn't needed until summer), one large OEM fan and one Mishimoto slim fan; Second was (2G) Ebay dual core aluminum rad, two SPAL fans wired together; Third combo (2G) was a Fluidlyne dual core rad with two FAL fans. Fourth combo, and most current (2G) is a AFCO Sirocco style rad with one single FAL fan, thats had its shroud hacked up on one side, and unlike the other combos (which were always behind a VRSF FMIC core, this one sits behind a 5" ETS core and uses Davies Craig water pump WITH the top mount setup (uncoated) and just a turbo blanket that is sandwiched by an extremely tight fit with the hotside. This setup only touched 220*F once, on the way to the shootout sitting in very heavy cleaveland traffic (weren't moving at all for over 5 min at times!). However even that isnt very accurate, because the way I had the overflow setup (last minute idea), it was drawing in air. Once I changed that, it actually began to run too cold at idle and cruise (150*F range)!
Click to expand...
So you had issues with your third combo,because that's where I will be at very soon. I will also add some ducting
 
Upvote0
I've struggled with cooling issues at idle with the Galant quite a bit in the past. The JDM bumpers on the Galant have a more restrictive opening than any DSM, and it makes it a bastard to get any air through fascia at idle. Long story short, the only thing that eventually worked was switching to quality fans.

Currently, I'm running dual 13" SPAL slim puller fans (VA13-AP9/C-35A 12v). They are wired to run together, and move enough air that I've never seen temps over 210*.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.




Before the dual 13's, I ran a 14" SPAL slim puller fan (VA08-AP51/C-23A 12v) in conjunction with a cheap Ebay 12" puller. This setup didn't have any trouble pulling the temp down at idle either. The 14" SPAL fan moved something stupid like 1300cfm, and was even better than the stock puller. Even with no shroud, driving the car back and forth to work in stop and go traffic I never saw over 210* on a 90*+ day.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.




Prior to this, the car would slowly overheat at low and idle speeds. I've been through more fan setups trying to resolve stupid cooling issues than I care to admit:

-I started with the factory shrouded puller and factory A/C pusher (stock Galant setup). This was on a stock radiator. Car would slowly overheat at low and idle speeds.

-Then, I swapped in a 1G shrouded Mishimoto 12" dual fan setup. Still on a NEW stock radiator. Car would still slowly overheat at low and idle speeds, and also run hot at high speed. The crappy Mishimoto shroud design was actually hindering airflow on my setup. In addition, the Mishimoto slim fans are just relabeled Ebay fans. They are complete garbage, and hardly move any air compared to a SPAL or FAL fan. This isn't to say the Mishimoto setup doesn't work for some people, it just didn't work for me.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.




-Ditched the Mishimoto fan setup, and went to a 2 row aluminum radiator. Swapped in a 12" Ebay puller fan and reinstalled the Factory shrouded puller. Also added a manifold blanket to help the under hood temps. The car would still slowly overheat at low and idle speeds.

-Ditched the factory puller, and swapped in the 14" SPAL and 12" Ebay no name fan. At that point, the car finally ran nice and cool in 95* weather.

-Ditched the 14" SPAL and 12" Ebay no name fan in favor of dual 13" SPAL fans, which is my current setup.

With my current setup, I'll probably never have a cooling issues at idle ever again. I didn't make ducting or any of that crap. Ducting will do very little at idle anyways. Take it from someone who has been in your shoes: You need a fan that will move sufficient air through the radiator core, and a GOOD fan is damn near the only thing that can do that.
 
Last edited:
Upvote0
ceedawg said:
So you had issues with your third combo,because that's where I will be at very soon. I will also add some ducting
Click to expand...

The only time I had I had an issue was in the 1g with the mishimoto fan, rad and one OEM fan. I haven't tried the OEM rad in the 1g because when the car was purchased, the rad was blown. During the summer, I was lazy when I added the secondary fan, all I did was wired it to a switch for me to turn on when needed.
 
Upvote0
GST with PSI said:
I've struggled with cooling issues at idle with the Galant quite a bit in the past. The JDM bumpers on the Galant have a more restrictive opening than any DSM, and it makes it a bastard to get any air through fascia at idle. Long story short, the only thing that eventually worked was switching to quality fans.

Currently, I'm running dual 13" SPAL slim puller fans (VA13-AP9/C-35A 12v). They are wired to run together, and move enough air that I've never seen temps over 210*.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
well these came last week, one is a pusher and the other is a puller! I pray they work and thanks for all your examples



Before the dual 13's, I ran a 14" SPAL slim puller fan (VA08-AP51/C-23A 12v) in conjunction with a cheap Ebay 12" puller. This setup didn't have any trouble pulling the temp down at idle either. The 14" SPAL fan moved something stupid like 1300cfm, and was even better than the stock puller. Even with no shroud, driving the car back and forth to work in stop and go traffic I never saw over 210* on a 90*+ day.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.




Prior to this, the car would slowly overheat at low and idle speeds. I've been through more fan setups trying to resolve stupid cooling issues than I care to admit:

-I started with the factory shrouded puller and factory A/C pusher (stock Galant setup). This was on a stock radiator. Car would slowly overheat at low and idle speeds.

-Then, I swapped in a 1G shrouded Mishimoto 12" dual fan setup. Still on a NEW stock radiator. Car would still slowly overheat at low and idle speeds, and also run hot at high speed. The crappy Mishimoto shroud design was actually hindering airflow on my setup. In addition, the Mishimoto slim fans are just relabeled Ebay fans. They are complete garbage, and hardly move any air compared to a SPAL or FAL fan. This isn't to say the Mishimoto setup doesn't work for some people, it just didn't work for me.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.




-Ditched the Mishimoto fan setup, and went to a 2 row aluminum radiator. Swapped in a 12" Ebay puller fan and reinstalled the Factory shrouded puller. Also added a manifold blanket to help the under hood temps. The car would still slowly overheat at low and idle speeds.

-Ditched the factory puller, and swapped in the 14" SPAL and 12" Ebay no name fan. At that point, the car finally ran nice and cool in 95* weather.

-Ditched the 14" SPAL and 12" Ebay no name fan in favor of dual 13" SPAL fans, which is my current setup.

With my current setup, I'll probably never have a cooling issues at idle ever again. I didn't make ducting or any of that crap. Ducting will do very little at idle anyways. Take it from someone who has been in your shoes: You need a fan that will move sufficient air through the radiator core, and a GOOD fan is damn near the only thing that can do that.
Click to expand...
GST with PSI said:
I've struggled with cooling issues at idle with the Galant quite a bit in the past. The JDM bumpers on the Galant have a more restrictive opening than any DSM, and it makes it a bastard to get any air through fascia at idle. Long story short, the only thing that eventually worked was switching to quality fans.

Currently, I'm running dual 13" SPAL slim puller fans (VA13-AP9/C-35A 12v). They are wired to run together, and move enough air that I've never seen temps over 210*.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.




Before the dual 13's, I ran a 14" SPAL slim puller fan (VA08-AP51/C-23A 12v) in conjunction with a cheap Ebay 12" puller. This setup didn't have any trouble pulling the temp down at idle either. The 14" SPAL fan moved something stupid like 1300cfm, and was even better than the stock puller. Even with no shroud, driving the car back and forth to work in stop and go traffic I never saw over 210* on a 90*+ day.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.




Prior to this, the car would slowly overheat at low and idle speeds. I've been through more fan setups trying to resolve stupid cooling issues than I care to admit:

-I started with the factory shrouded puller and factory A/C pusher (stock Galant setup). This was on a stock radiator. Car would slowly overheat at low and idle speeds.

-Then, I swapped in a 1G shrouded Mishimoto 12" dual fan setup. Still on a NEW stock radiator. Car would still slowly overheat at low and idle speeds, and also run hot at high speed. The crappy Mishimoto shroud design was actually hindering airflow on my setup. In addition, the Mishimoto slim fans are just relabeled Ebay fans. They are complete garbage, and hardly move any air compared to a SPAL or FAL fan. This isn't to say the Mishimoto setup doesn't work for some people, it just didn't work for me.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.




-Ditched the Mishimoto fan setup, and went to a 2 row aluminum radiator. Swapped in a 12" Ebay puller fan and reinstalled the Factory shrouded puller. Also added a manifold blanket to help the under hood temps. The car would still slowly overheat at low and idle speeds.

-Ditched the factory puller, and swapped in the 14" SPAL and 12" Ebay no name fan. At that point, the car finally ran nice and cool in 95* weather.

-Ditched the 14" SPAL and 12" Ebay no name fan in favor of dual 13" SPAL fans, which is my current setup.

With my current setup, I'll probably never have a cooling issues at idle ever again. I didn't make ducting or any of that crap. Ducting will do very little at idle anyways. Take it from someone who has been in your shoes: You need a fan that will move sufficient air through the radiator core, and a GOOD fan is damn near the only thing that can do that.
Click to expand...
well these came last week I pray they work.one is a pusher the other a puller!
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Upvote0
Good choice. I think you'll be surprised how simply swapping in a pair of good fans will help your problem. Make sure you report back with results.
 
Upvote0
iugrad92turbo said:
Gonna skip the ebay and grab a mishmoto radiator.
Click to expand...

The Mishimoto radiator and Ebay radiator are nearly identical. I would just pick up an Ebay core instead of paying the markup on the Mishimoto. There's virtually no difference.
 
Upvote0
Hey Get with Psi did you mention that you had two fans that run at the sametime? Did that put heavy amperage use on the wires I will assume you had them both wired together getting power from the same source? And you had to run heavier gauge wire?

Right now on my car I have the old ones hooked up as if the stock ones were wired.
 
Upvote0
Yes, I ran heavy gauge wire to the fans.
 
Upvote0
I used 14ga wire throughout the circuit.

To wire the fans, you can do it one of 2 ways:

-Use the factory relays to run both fans:
This will depend on the amount of amperage both fans pull combined. If your fans are rated over what the factory curcuit can handle, this is a no go. Mine are wired combining the factory high and low speed main fan relays. However, the 1g fan wiring is significantly different than that of a 2G. To wire yours in, you'll have to see here: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/fan-wiring.233644/

-Use a separate relay:
If you can't use the method above, another simple option is to use the factory fan circuit to trigger a separate relay. This may actually be easier, as you won't have to do much modification to the harness, and can easily return to the stock configuration if you desire. Simply wire the stock fan circuit to the relay coil, so that when the car activates the fan circuit, the secondary relay comes on and activates your fans. This is also good because you can run a wire directly from 12v (fused of course) through a single relay to your fan, which bypasses the factory harness completely to power the fans.
 
Upvote0
Brett, did this JDM galant have A/C? cant tell from your pics. I live in florida and cant live without a/c. I have been through the fight of overheating in slow moving traffic in florida heat. through an assortment of cooling arrangements and have come up with a different solution that works quite well.
 
Upvote0
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

  • Question
1G Running rich at idle
Replies
5
Views
2K
steve
steve
Kyle McL
  • Question
420A Running Hot
Replies
16
Views
2K
TSi-Rocket
TSi-Rocket
2gmummy
  • Question
2G dsm running hot
2
Replies
35
Views
7K
DSM1G90
DSM1G90
aaronth777
  • Question
420A Rough idle/no power. Stumped.
Replies
6
Views
5K
X2M7NOZ
X2M7NOZ
Rikolas
  • Question
2G running lean and rough while at idle
Replies
3
Views
995
AWD Street Terrorist
AWD Street Terrorist
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top