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2G Suspension Control arms

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Type1DSMr

Proven Member
1,114
149
Jul 27, 2014
Jasper, Indiana
I'm looking at replacing my front and rear suspension besides the struts right now, and I have some questions on which to get. Extreme psi has the OEM front kit with knuckle for 130 per side and rockauto has Moog parts. Which is better OEM or Moog? Also which is better Moog control arms R-series or the problem solver series? I'm gonna be using the Moog sway links for the front and rear instead of the OEM because of price as long as they are good. Any advice on which set-up is best is helpful. Thanks
 
Top of the line Moog is better than Oem, but Oem is better than problem solver Moog.

Ok on rockauto the Moog parts are the cheaper R-series or the more expensive problem solver series. So neither of those are as good as OEM? I can only get the sway link and tie rods in the problem solver.
 
I must have it backwards, the more expensive Moog is better than Oem, but Oem is better than the cheap Moog.
 
Yes, the problem solver stuff is nice. The sway linkages are grease-able via zerk fittings at each end. Additionally, the linkages have a hex section instead of the allen key hole to make removal/installation much easier. The only tricky part is the rear install is a little more challenging with the due to the zerk fittings. I have had to cut many of the OE style ones off due to the allen-key hole stripping out. As far as the knuckle kit goes, I highly recommend the OE set. Those are best left as OE replacements.
 
Yes, the problem solver stuff is nice. The sway linkages are grease-able via zerk fittings at each end. Additionally, the linkages have a hex section instead of the allen key hole to make removal/installation much easier. The only tricky part is the rear install is a little more challenging with the due to the zerk fittings. I have had to cut many of the OE style ones off due to the allen-key hole stripping out. As far as the knuckle kit goes, I highly recommend the OE set. Those are best left as OE replacements.

Ok so get the knuckle kit for both sides with includes the 2 control arms and get the Moog problem solver series for the rest of parts. Where to get the upper control arm as I can't find the Moog series for the front. Extreme psi told me that they could probably get OEM ones as long I have the part number. However, I have not seen that part available from any of the vendors.
 
I don't think OEM is the way to go with suspension components. After all, the recall was done because of the unreliability of OEM parts. I had a set of OEMs (replaced in recall) start to fail after a few years. I've heard mixed reviews on moogs lately, although I can't say for sure the reviewers were using problem solvers or r series, which are no different than any other Chinese control arms off eBay.
Personally I've replaced many suspensions on dsms over the years, with all types of expensive and cheap parts, and I prefer mevotech (not the "original" series), and they seem to be holding up very well.
Also, I used "Detroit axle" compression arms (off eBay, I think $50 for the pair) and I was very impressed with the quality. I've only had them on for a few thousand miles but no problems so far.
 
I have regularly tracked my white 2g for the last 3 years. The only suspension failure I have had was a nut that came loose on a rear toe arm. Aside from the sway bar linkages, all other components are OEM. Until I get the tubular control arms anyway.

There are different types of failures though. I regularly inspect suspension components before events. I grease items that need greases, and check ensure proper torque on suspension fasteners.

For ball joints, the spindles should be inspected as the holes for the ball joints can go out of round which will lead to premature failure. I wonder if that is why the OEM kit has a new spindle.
 
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I have regularly tracked my white 2g for the last 3 years. The only suspension failure I have had was a nut that came loose on a rear toe arm. Aside from the sway bar linkages, all other components are OEM. Until I get the tubular control arms anyway.

There are different types of failures though. I regularly inspect suspension components before events. I grease items that need greases, and check ensure proper torque on suspension fasteners.

For ball joints, the spindles should be inspected as the holes for the ball joints can go out of round which will lead to premature failure. I wonder if that is why the OEM kit has a new spindle.


No, the Oem kit comes with knuckles because they dont make the 95'-96' lower arms anymore, rather they have you install the included 97'-99' knuckles to upgrade all 2g's to the 97'-99' spec setup.
 
Learn something new. I know the 95-96 rear knuckles were different (tire clearance), but not the front as well.
 
So far I'm ordering the oem knuckle kit R+L side from extreme psi. Moog problem solver stabilizer links and inner and outer tie rods from rockauto. Could only find Moog R-series upper control arms for 78 for both verses OEM at 220. Is there anything else for the front end I'm missing?
 
You can get the good Moog upper control arm ball joints by themselves and install them into your existing arms.
 
You can get the good Moog upper control arm ball joints by themselves and install them into your existing arms.

I've looked for the better Moog problem solver series but with no success only the R-series. All of the other Moog parts are the better ones.


Edit: you talking about just getting the ball joints and installing them into the upper control arms. Can I do that with the ones I have on now instead on buying new ones just to replace the ball joint?
 
If you are only wanting to replace the ball joint, the Moog part number is K90264. Make sure you inspect the bushings on the upper arm if you plan to go this route.
 
Yes I meant just the ball joints on your used arms, if you want adjustable camber you could go with the ingalls, I'm not sure on the wear quality on them vs Moog though.
 
Please look for facts.... sometimes brand will imply quality... other times it doesn't.

Generally speaking the biggest difference will be the ball-joint & the ball-joint-boot. If the boot fails... your ball-joint will fail shortly after. Water & dirt will kill it. Zirc's were removed from OEMs because leak-paths will (WILL) allow water... water degrades grease. ball-joints-with-zircs MUST allow "over-greasing" reliefs to prevent burst... these reliefs are water paths... Don't believe me? stick your face on your LCA and drive thru puddles, mud, sand, snow (thermal expansion/contraction), saltwater, & such. Very challenging environment.

Our 2g rear LCAs have an outer joint which is in tension (due to spring). This is not an easy/simple task... to design a ball-joint which will not pull-out with extreme events. Yes compression BJs exist... but require a stirrup knuckle ($$$).

We can talk about brand... and say OEM sucks... and pretend we understand....

The bottom line is this:

You have no-idea about the quality, nor materials, nor tolerances on any parts you bolt on your car. Even OEM parts may be a cost-reduced version of the "original." At least with the OEM... someone who knows the application is deciding on whether the ball-joint race is acetal or glass-reinforced nylon, and chances are the boot is unchanged.

Generally, anything will work for a while.

I was at an OEM supplier for bushings. They had about 100 test fixtures running... testing "blue" sta-bar bushes. I asked the engineer what are you testing for.... He said trying to find a "blue" compound that was as durable as the black-rubber.

How well "after market" or "service" parts perform is not the primary objective.... Getting you to buy them is. Are you buying blue parts? Racers ferret this out because they are constantly breaking stuff and they learn what does & doesn't work.
 
So I received my order from rockauto for the moog problem solver tie rods, and the two outer are different. I've heard this a normal problem from rockauto because of different models and warehouses the parts come from. However, is it safe to use them?
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Those are nothing alike! Are the part numbers on the box the same? I have been using Moog problem solver parts for a number of years, and all have looked like the one that came with the boot attached. The joint in question does not even seem to accept a zerk fitting. My suggestion would be to return or exchange for the part you were expecting. Honestly, I have had nothing but good customer service with Rock Auto. When I have and issue, they have been prompt and helpful.
 
Quick question about the moog problem solvers. Do they come with enough grease in them? Or should I pump grease in them before use?

I ordered (2)ES2347RL outer tie rod ends from rock auto. I haven't opened the boxes to see what they look like though. I'll check later today.
 
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