Sorry about the long title but I am going crazy over my engine ticking. and I think it is the timing.

I see it's a 1g, but does it have balance shafts still ?

Also, if the cam gears are lined up in the first pic, is the pic of the crank at the same configuration ? That does look a tooth off...

tmoney20g said:

I see it's a 1g, but does it have balance shafts still ?

Also, if the cam gears are lined up in the first pic, is the pic of the crank at the same configuration ? That does look a tooth off...

Click to expand...

Yes it has balance shafts, yes I didn't move it between the pictures.

I was looking at http://www.ilostmymind.com/manuals/DSM_manual/vfaq/proj-pics/Tbelt/Tbelt5.jpg and the oil pump sprocket looks way off.

Why are you uaing a fixed tensioner? The pic angke is bad, cantvtell if crank is good or not but it looks right to me. Rotate the emgine some more and get all the marks lined up so you can check them all. Only once every six times do all 5 marks line up and youre not there.

The nocth, on the block crank gear doesn't appear to line up. Then again the angle is not level. Are you sure it's not lifter tick you are hearing.?

Okay let me get the engine rotated correctly. be right back

At first glanced it sounds like a very tight belt.

And then there's that fixed tensioner.

belt doesn't feel too tight, but I guess I wouldn't know, All the marks actually do line up so i'm lost now.. going to go check it with a timing light again.

Umm... what does a timing light have anything to do with this?

Did it do this before the job and were you running that fixed tensioner?

OP, in your pics, it may be hard to tell if everything is lined up correctly. As stated, it may take about 6 turns to see if the cams, crank, and oil pump sprocket are lined up. Here are some pics for reference: (going off your profile for the 90 dsm)

Cams:


Crank and oil pump sprocket:


I agree with Pauley about a concern running the solid tensioner. Although it is a nice looking piece, our engines are designed for a hydraulic tensioner that automatically adjusts for expansion and contraction that takes place during warm-up and running conditions. Here is a thread with good information discussed recently:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/hydraulic-or-solid-timing-tensioner.496629/

If you decide to go back to the hydraulic tensioner, the 90 part # is MD164533.
You can set it correctly using the following tutorial:
http://vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-1G.html

2gmitsueclipse said:

OP, in your pics, it may be hard to tell if everything is lined up correctly. As stated, it may take about 6 turns to see if the cams, crank, and oil pump sprocket are lined up. Here are some pics for reference: (going off your profile for the 90 dsm)

Cams:

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Crank and oil pump sprocket:

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I agree with Pauley about a concern running the solid tensioner. Although it is a nice looking piece, our engines are designed for a hydraulic tensioner that automatically adjusts for expansion and contraction that takes place during warm-up and running conditions. Here is a thread with good information discussed recently:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/hydraulic-or-solid-timing-tensioner.496629/

If you decide to go back to the hydraulic tensioner, the 90 part # is MD164533.
You can set it correctly using the following tutorial:
http://vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-1G.html

Click to expand...

I guess I will try that. I have the MD164533.

pauleyman said:

Did it do this before the job and were you running that fixed tensioner?

Click to expand...

no and no

+1 for go back to hydraulic tensioner. if you were a guy that ONLY goes 1/4 mile racing and tears down the engine once a month, then solid is ok. For the other 99% of us, oem hydraulic is required.

You are right about the solid tensioner, it was causing that noise until it is totally warm plus some time, definitely worth using the OEM part.. Also had to adjust the timing to 5TDC.