Your fuel trims are quite high and your dead times are also very long, what injectors are you using? At a low pulsewidth i.e. cruise and idle, a longer dead time has a huge impact on fuel trims.

they are FIC 1050 low impedence injectors. If I shorten the dead time it won't idle.

After removing the factory front O2 completely and plugging the bung, the car now runs much better, made the longest continuous drive in my experience with the car and had no issues.

Does it make sense this would fix my rich condition?
attached are two more log files from today.

Suggestions?

Anyone else have these FIC 1050 Injectors?

You need to log more variables than those, such as injector parameters e.g. duty cycle and open time, as well as fuel trims (STFT, selectLTFT, combinedFT, LTFTlo, LTFTmid and LTFThi).
By unplugging the front O2, unless you have the rear O2 intact (is it, or did you use your WB in place of it?), you are more or less forcing the car into open loop which will run fine but be a pig on gas and overall not good long term (cylinder wall washing e.g.)
If you were having issues with running rich in closed loop, it is likely because A) the sensor was faulty or B) your dead times are too long. When you say "won't idle" what exactly do you mean? It cuts out entirely?

Also, your WOT is showing a LOT of knock, I'd look at that as well, maybe pull a few degrees in those load cells.

I will add those fuel trims to the log.

Factory front O2 is out, WB is in its place, bung in down pipe is plugged and rear O2 is working.

I will check the idle again at the recommended global fuel -60 and dead time of 330, but as I recall it just loads up and dies.

Are you simulating the front o2?

2fast2evo said:

You need to log more variables than those, such as injector parameters e.g. duty cycle and open time, as well as fuel trims (STFT, selectLTFT, combinedFT, LTFTlo, LTFTmid and LTFThi).
By unplugging the front O2, unless you have the rear O2 intact (is it, or did you use your WB in place of it?), you are more or less forcing the car into open loop which will run fine but be a pig on gas and overall not good long term (cylinder wall washing e.g.)
If you were having issues with running rich in closed loop, it is likely because A) the sensor was faulty or B) your dead times are too long. When you say "won't idle" what exactly do you mean? It cuts out entirely?

Also, your WOT is showing a LOT of knock, I'd look at that as well, maybe pull a few degrees in those load cells.

Click to expand...

New idle log with recommended fuel settings, and fuel trims added to log.
With it set like this the front O2 doesn't cycle and the airflow per rev is elevated at 0.34, adding more dead time makes it cycle again.

how do I get it to cycle to O2 again without raising the deadtime?

I am simulating the front O2.

OK so it looks like you are running very lean as you first said, but your global fuel is -57.0%. Slowly try increasing that towards zero and see if it does anything. If you have to set the deadtimes higher then so be it, mine are not really near the OEM spec either, I was just commenting that 675us is very high . Basically a high dead time will make you disproportionately richer at idle than at cruise, so if you cruise and your AFRs are OK/better, then that's your problem.

Also, using the WB in the front O2 spot right where the original front O2 used to be will hurt the lifespan of the sensor, they like cooler temps as you would find e.g. in the rear O2 spot. What I would say is use the WB in the place of the rear O2 and keep the front O2 intact. Log the WB from the rear O2 instead of front.

Any particular reason that you have the 'lock comm in ECMlink mode' box [Misc tab in the config window] ticked?

Thank you so much for the advice. I started over with the fuel trims and adjusted global fuel down to about -40% and dead time to 360 to make the combFT in the 1-2% range.

It never occurred to me to adjust the global fuel, but it seems to be running well now, I will play with it a little more and post another cruise log.

With these adjustments, can I put the factory front O2 back in and move my WB back to the downpipe? rear O2 staying in its place. If I do this do I turn off the NB simulation?

I really just like to have the car as emissions ready as possible, instead of adding stuff back every year to not get the O2 sensor heater CEL.

Good stuff, glad to help. And no worries, I just passed my e-test yesterday so this is all fresh in my mind

You should probably have the WB in the downpipe anyway due to heat problems for the sensor that close to the exhaust ports. I'd recommend using the front O2 in its original place for the long term and the WB where you had it originally (sorry if I misunderstood that you moved it).

As for NB simulation, it depends on which sensor you have wired in as the primary input for the ECU. If you are using the WB, then leave the simulation on, set for a switch point that the manufacturer recommends (usually 2.49V for a 0-5V signal range). Unless the sensor is buggered up you should be OK with that.

So I put all 3 sensors back in, with the new fuel trims. The car runs like crap. Having the front O2 plugged in and the WB wired into pin 76 is apparently a bad combo.

I tried moving the WB to pin 75 (Rear O2), from pin76(front O2). And then turned the NB simulation off, switched the WB in link to rear, but now it doesn't log the WB.

I really just want this to be easy for emissions.

Does anyone else have their WB in the down pipe? To which ECU input is it wired?