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2G Guys I'm looking for help; diagnosing a bog.

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miliman13

10+ Year Contributor
1,957
276
Jan 1, 2011
tampa, Florida
Gentleman, some of you already know me around the site, that being said I like to solve before starting pointless threads like so many new members. But I feel I could use of your assistance.

From one day to the next, I started to bog out around 7psi 3500rpm give it take. I search around tested the common causes. No luck so far.
Please let's get passed the boost leak , some may immediately jump too. I have to many years of boost leaks so it's not that.

So far I replaced plugs and wires.
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I tested the power transistor and got continuity in all cylinders.
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.
I also took pics of my ECU, I don't see anything that sticks out, so I posted pics so you guys can help me check, sometimes capacitors are the cause.


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ECU LAST SERVICES BY ECM IN 2009/2010.

now, I also tested my cool pack at room temp, and unpluged I came in at around 15-16kohms. And plugged in at around 1.3-1.5ohms which is out of speed according to the manual.

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Also I snaked my fuel pressure gauge close to the wind shield to see if it's fuel cut and it doesn't appear so, I base this on the fact that the pressure climbs as the boost climbs which is expected.

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So I'm looking for guidance. I know it will be hard as few DSM guys really get this technical with diagnosing. So any help is good.
 
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Your deadtime is still 430 try the 330 that ecmtuning recommends. When I put 750cc in I get -40.6 not the -39.8 you had. Go in the mafcomp and set everything back to zero not that curved line you got going. Yeah Florida is a little warmer than Indiana LOL. Can you display the Aem wideband in your log or is that something I need to change?
 
Sorry, Check this out, i have 4 laptops i have to use one for login it has a good battery and another to type because the other one has a ghost in it, keys get stuck, and i can only use it log not make real changes, because all the keys are firing so it will generate absurd values. So i apologize if you have seen craziness.

Also i tried to zero out maft, all it did was make it rich like in the 10's and i couldnt log the comp was bugging out.
 

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  • 330..-40.0.idle.elg
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Sorry, Check this out, i have 4 laptops i have to use one for login it has a good battery and another to type because the other one has a ghost in it, keys get stuck, and i can only use it log not make real changes, because all the keys are firing so it will generate absurd values. So i apologize if you have seen craziness.

Also i tried to zero out maft, all it did was make it rich like in the 10's and i couldnt log the comp was bugging out.
OK I must have missed that your on a maft. But in that log I'm still seeing 430 dead time. So don't I know hopefully more people chime in.
 
I have been reading alot, and writing my own how to based on the WIKI.
question, what is the purpose of ( locking in open look)?? I have read and, it doesn't explain the why, just xyztrim-low..ect but not as to the reason. Is it for WOT. as in I went WOT now parked I have to make adjustments that's why I looked it??
 
The purpose of locking the ECU into openloop is to validate that the actual AFR matches the target AFR in the maps. If it doesn't then the you don't have the ECU dialed in yet.
 
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ok, so this is how im making sence of it, when i lock in open loop , my WB02 ratio changes it gets right at 14.7 AFR, if i unclick, the WB reads a little leaner. So locking in open loop is how the car will operate at cruise ,wot, but at idle it will differ since the Front 02 is swinging ? is this correct?

- I set gobal to -40 and Dtime to 330, i got my LTFT-lo to zero, and Combined FT to around +/- 0%. By adjusting my sliders.... Going up towards zero (Adding).

I have a question. The WiKi has a formula.
(A/F RatioEst - WB) x (-10)= % Adjustment. The percent Adjustment should that be then added to the percent of the MaftRaw ? Or should the percent (decimal number) be multiplied by the current MaftRaw percent to make adjustment?............ basically i don't know what to do with the answer you get from calculating two ratios.

Thanks for the help, i do very well in calculus but here im still learning.
 

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Very nice on idle so far, at least its better than -20 combineft LOL. Remember to set your tps to -13 to get that .63v. Also is that your man?
:|my man??


I did adjust it to read .63 but the bastard keep going back .65 it just does what ever it wants. I feel like I have a daughterROFL.

I know you can't see it, we have different WB sensors. But my WB macthes my Af,est,ratio when I lock it in open loop only.
 
:|my man??


I did adjust it to read .63 but the bastard keep going back .65 it just does what ever it wants. I feel like I have a daughterROFL.

I know you can't see it, we have different WB sensors. But my WB macthes my Af,est,ratio when I lock it in open loop only.
Lol my man LOL I meant your car man.
 
Lol, yeah man that's my ball and chain she has traveled the country on a trailer, she's to good to actually drive her self!! She gets all the best things I can afford. And this is how she pays me back. Had her for 6 yrs now and only had a tune for around 2 months. I refuse to give up on her, just sucks to have been this long, and no boosting... It's like having the hot girl but she won't let you fool around.
 
Bastard got stuck, i got mad ripped it off and used a set of needle nose, im good.

it was a H.B Freight gauge, gotta find a good quality one.
But im still riping it all apart, i need a new alternator anyhow, plus i never dialed in my cams, and it was tuned around a compression issue. So plan on going SD at the same time.

Any way i cant tune out this bog no matter what i do at the 10-1500Hz range, idk what it is. But clicking Simulate Narrow band is way easier one me, it actually matches perfectly, i feel like the dame Front 02 is just getting in my way.

I think i kinda get what "lock in open loop" is Steve said the same as the article, and i still don't really know.
http://www.enginebasics.com/EFI Tuning/Closed Loop o2.html
 

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  • nb.cruise.elg
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