DSM's 4 life
10+ Year Contributor
- 649
- 14
- Nov 13, 2011
-
Buffalo,
New_York
Hey guys I am kinda at a loss as to what to do now ill start from the beginning in hopes that it will bring some insight to what happened and is going on with my car.
I have been building a Mitsubishi mighty max at my cousins house 4g64 2.4L bottom end with a 2g head, 2g ecu, harness etc. The car was complete and i was driving it around with no issues for a solid week just getting it dialed in with the maft. Changed the diff, and trans fluid making sure it received good maintenance. My cousin lives an hour and 20 min from my house and i was ready to bring it home about 30 min into driving it it sputtered a few times kinda like it dident have fuel when i pressed the gas just a blip though real quick then back on boost it was fine it began getting worse to the point my fuel trims started becoming off i bumped up my trims to richen it out 40 min in im on the highway all the sudden total loss in power wideband pegged lean i pull over immediately. I popped the hood and began inspecting i noticed my break booster had a huge vaccumme leak from where my intake manifold had punctured it after further inspection i saw that the intake was cracked as well. had the car towed home.
had the manifold welded i welded the booster. boost leak tested fixed two leaks in my pipeing also discovered my shaft seals were bad replaced them as well. car would no longer start i replaced the cam sensor 1997 style started finally. I discovered that it was running only on two cylinders. I replaced the transistor it began running on 4 cylinders. tested my isc discovered it failed and actually broke off inside my tb replaced that. changed my fuel pump bosh 44. changed my fuel filter. car sputters bad at low rpm and seems to fix itself in the higher end while revving it in my driveway. after taking it for a drive it seems like with the throttle held just cruseing it cuts out like fuel cut. I have an extra injector box and it runns better on the one than other for some reason. in addition runs better on my metal ecu than black box. and my ecu sensor ground pin 92? was grounding outside of the ecu It turned out to be my maft box so i cut cut the maf ground and just used a body ground.
Is it common to have this many failures at once and what is my current issue?
I have been building a Mitsubishi mighty max at my cousins house 4g64 2.4L bottom end with a 2g head, 2g ecu, harness etc. The car was complete and i was driving it around with no issues for a solid week just getting it dialed in with the maft. Changed the diff, and trans fluid making sure it received good maintenance. My cousin lives an hour and 20 min from my house and i was ready to bring it home about 30 min into driving it it sputtered a few times kinda like it dident have fuel when i pressed the gas just a blip though real quick then back on boost it was fine it began getting worse to the point my fuel trims started becoming off i bumped up my trims to richen it out 40 min in im on the highway all the sudden total loss in power wideband pegged lean i pull over immediately. I popped the hood and began inspecting i noticed my break booster had a huge vaccumme leak from where my intake manifold had punctured it after further inspection i saw that the intake was cracked as well. had the car towed home.
had the manifold welded i welded the booster. boost leak tested fixed two leaks in my pipeing also discovered my shaft seals were bad replaced them as well. car would no longer start i replaced the cam sensor 1997 style started finally. I discovered that it was running only on two cylinders. I replaced the transistor it began running on 4 cylinders. tested my isc discovered it failed and actually broke off inside my tb replaced that. changed my fuel pump bosh 44. changed my fuel filter. car sputters bad at low rpm and seems to fix itself in the higher end while revving it in my driveway. after taking it for a drive it seems like with the throttle held just cruseing it cuts out like fuel cut. I have an extra injector box and it runns better on the one than other for some reason. in addition runs better on my metal ecu than black box. and my ecu sensor ground pin 92? was grounding outside of the ecu It turned out to be my maft box so i cut cut the maf ground and just used a body ground.
Is it common to have this many failures at once and what is my current issue?
