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2G 6 bolt swap and DSMlink

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JackStieben

Proven Member
200
21
Feb 11, 2014
San Antonio, Texas
Picked up an old 6-bolt that I plan to rebuild and swap into my 1997 GST. My original plan was to build the 6-bolt block and head but now I am unsure if I want to use my 7-bolt head. What are the benefits of each one and what do you guys prefer? Before I do the swap I'm going to get a '95 eprom ecu and DSMlink. Is V3 better than V2 or will V2 suffice? And it will still work with the 6-bolt? Will I need to add/delete some connections/wires? I want to make 400-450ish whp. I'm going to take my time with this so I will make sure everything is correct as I go. Just need a few outside opinions on what's the best way to go about this. Thanks in advance for any help or feedback.
 
I had the same question, and still have an old 6bolt sitting around. My original plan was to build the 6 bolt with the 7 bolt head, but after a lot of reading and cost analysis I decide to just rebuild the 7 bolt block as I like you am keeping in the 400whp range. I also wanted to avoid the wiring necessary to do the 6 bolt swap.

I just had ecmtuning eprom my 97 ecu, and then got V3lite, has some nice updates that make it more useful than V2, but I also have never used V2.

From your profile your car seems well built, what whp are you making now?
What's your budget?
 
why not keep the 7 bolt? nothing wrong with it. one of the only advantages is the rods are stronger. the 2g 7 bolt head flows better, but 6 bolt has larger port. that part is just a personal preference. i think its like 6 bolt is better for racing and 7 bolt is better for the street. v3 is better than v2. but you can easily save $500 and get a tactrix cable and tune the eprom ecu already in the car, or upgrade to the 98/99 black box or evo 7-9 ecu. none will require sending it out go get socketed or chipped and save a ton of money. the 6 bolt will need bracing for the crank caps if you want alot of power. thats the weak length. 6 bolt stock as seen 700 hp. 7 bolt has seen 500 on stock internals. best 7 bolt to have is 97.5-99 with the revised thrust washer block.
 
i have not done this yet but im going a similar route 1g block with 2g head. As far as the heads go, yes you can use the 7 bolt head but you will have to over size the holes the studs go through. the 1g block uses 12mm studs and the 2g head uses 11mm studs. it basically boils down to volume (1g) vs velocity (2g).
 
Is V3 better than V2 or will V2 suffice? And it will still work with the 6-bolt?

V3 has more features and I would say its better than V2, but people were getting by just fine with V2 before 3 came out , if you find V2 for cheap you can get an upgrade.

Will I need to add/delete some connections/wires?

I also wanted to avoid the wiring necessary to do the 6 bolt swap.

The only wiring you really have to do is for the cam sensor and you can buy a pre made plug & play harness and you will only have to connect one wire. Its not that hard without the harness either.
 
This is my first time building an engine so I'm still unsure about the benefits of some things. How will volume or velocity affect performance? different spool up? Or how it revs? My budget is technically unlimited as I want to take as long as I need to build the engine before I swap it in. I have a buddy that's going to sell me dsmlink v2 for cheap so I'll probably go with that. I want it the car to be a daily driver/street car until I can afford to get a daily. Once that happens, it will become a weekend warrior that I'll take to the track every once in a while. Does anyone have suggestions on which rods and pistons to use? I'm going to delete the balance shafts and I want to use ARP for the most important bolts.
 
im not a DSM wiseman, but i have done a lot of reading on these forums with a couple of your same questions in mind as i started my build last year. Based on my reading/analysis and understanding, 1G 6 bolt block is best, top end can go either way but i found it easier to keep the original 2G top end, just had to drill out those larger head stud holes. Get the 1G throttle body and port your intake. There isn't much for re-wiring so don't worry about that. Read the 1G in a 2G articles in here, better found on a Google search.
 
you'll have to modify the oil pump cover and move oil channels around to fit the 2g engine mount. unless someone made a mount for the swap. its best to keep the 7 bolt engine and put stronger rods in.
 
you'll have to modify the oil pump cover and move oil channels around to fit the 2g engine mount. unless someone made a mount for the swap. its best to keep the 7 bolt engine and put stronger rods in.

On a 6 bolt block u use the stock oil pump. No mods required. The only mod i made to the engine mount was cutting off a one inch piece where it interfered with the water pump.
 
I have a 1g intake manifold if that will work better. I've been told they flow better than the stock 2g ones. Which TB will work better? Or is an evo3 tb a good option?

The only mod i made to the engine mount was cutting off a one inch piece where it interfered with the water pump.
What part did you have to cut? Do you have any pictures? How did it interfere with the W/P?
 
This may be helpful:
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You may want to check out his build videos. He goes over all the problems you'll encounter and most importantly why you should go with a certain method or whatever the subject is. LOTS of good info on there. 1G head flows more but 2G flows better especially for that power range. Higher velocity = better atomization of fuel = better efficiency. There is more work to use the 7-bolt head but it is superior.
 
I've decided that I will be using the 7-bolt head and after doing lots of research, I'm going to try Wiseco HD pistons and Eagle H-beam rods. Will that work with the oem 6-bolt crank no problem? Or is cutting the crank necessary? What kind of compression ratio should I run?Will oem bearings and such work or basically what specifically will I need to do to make that piston/rod combo work and be reliable (for the most part)?
 
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I've decided that I will be using the 7-bolt head and after doing lots of research, I'm going to try Wiseco HD pistons and Eagle H-beam rods. Will that work with the oem 6-bolt crank no problem? Or is cutting the crank necessary? What kind of compression should I run? Will oem bearings and such work or basically what specifically will I need to do to make that piston/rod combo work and be reliable (for the most part)?
What fuel do you want to run? And what boost?
 
Alright then 8.3-8.5:1 is safe and you could do 24 lbs if you can keep the air cold enough and keep oil out of the intake. You'll have to have a spot on tune. Safe i'd say 22 lbs. You wont touch 400whp on that turbo on straight 93 unfortunately. You could do it on Meth injection @ 28ish lbs safely if your tune is good. Check out FPs sale on the 68HTA right now as well. That would get you into some nice power with meth injection. You'll also want BPR7ES or even 8ES plugs some slightly thicker oil (unless its very cold) and I'd run an OEM timing belt. You'll also need DSMlink, head studs, and bigger injectors among other things. While the head is off, check your valve guides. Alcohol based fuels wear them much faster than gasoline.
 
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