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2G Ignition intake failure

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mav4

Probationary Member
17
0
Feb 3, 2015
Palamós, Europe
Hi guys,

First of all, i'm new to this site. I'd like to present myself

I'm from Spain, I own a Mitsubishi Eclipse GS 2g, and this forum is the only one where i could find some solutions, so i finally decided to sign in.

I recently got a problem with my car.

I was about to go out, I started my engine and the "check engine" led just showed up. After few seconds, my engine just shutted down. After trying to start it again a few times, the results were the same.

The fact is that, the next day, i tried to start my engine again and it worked. I went out for 15 min to test it and I went back home. Then my car shutted down again. And never started again for the next 2 hours.

After that, the engine worked as I wrote before.

After cheking where the problem came from, I noticed that those symptomes were like if the car was getting drown every time I started his engine, probably cause of excess of fuel. (Sorry, i'm not used to speak those terms in english, I try to use the best words for you to understand me)

That would be the reason why my car works after 2-3 hours of not driving it, cause the excess of fuel dissapears.
Then, when I drive it for a few Kms gets full of fuel again and it shuts down.

I realised that this problem could come from two places:

The MAF sensor is damaged and tries to introduce more air than it should, and that, introduces an excess of fuel too.

OR, the TPS sensor of the throttle is damaged, and tells the car to use high levels of fuel.


Any other ideas? What do you think about? Sorry again for my english.

Thank you so much.
 
Hi again,

I'm uploading some pictures of my engine:

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So, i've been checking some camshaft sensors from EBay, and I don't know which sensor do I have to buy.

I think my car has this one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Crank-S...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d2e4cb9c9&vxp=mtr

But i can only find this one in USA market.

If i search in the european EBay website, I can only manage to find this one:

( http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mitsubish...Mitsubishi|Model:Eclipse&hash=item2328974dc5 )


Which one do I have to buy??

Thanks.


 
Guys, i'd apreciate your help with the last post. The sooner I could know which sensor is, the faster my car will be repaired.

Thanks in advance.
 
I'm confused if you want to just replace the cam sensor or buy 1g cas and wire that in manually.

If you are just replacing your cam sensor only then this is what you need:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MD300102-CA...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2313aeff9d&vxp=mtr

Again this requires you to pull the timing belt off to get to it. I don't see why your engine should be different from the turbo engines. You can pull just that top timing belt cover and you can see it behind the cam gear.

If you are looking to wire in a 1g cas then this is what you are looking for:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1991-1994-1g-Eclipse-Talon-4g63-Turbo-CAS-cam-angle-sensor-2G-swap-Crank-/231488861744?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model:Eclipse&hash=item35e5cfb630&vxp=mtr

If you do this you need to wire BOTH the cam and crank sensor to it.
 
Well I don't know at all if I'm able to wire the 1g CAS as myself, so I checked the other option.

Is it EXTREMELY necessary to pull off the timing belt? I mean, I've been checking a 2G '96 4G63 manual and the sensor seems to be easy to disconnect without playing with the timing belt.

I upload a picture of that manual for you to understand:

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I've read that many people managed to change the sensor without pulling the timing belt off.

Actually, maybe it's just me that think wiring a 1G CAS is harder, and probably it's easier than changing de sensor, but I don't really know how to wire both sensors to the CAS.
Also, the only place where I can buy a 1G CAS is USA, as I can't manage to find any of it in Europe. That means 1 month of shipping before I receive it here in Spain. That's why I preferently checked the other option.

Thanks.


EDIT: I've been checking again the tutorial posted above, and I don't really understand the following:

"Now you have to set base timing again which should be 5 degrees advance" after installing the CAS and wiring both sensors to it.

I looked for more tutorials arround the internet, and some people say "only replace the 1 CAS annd wire it correctly to both sensors."

There's nothing about setting the base timing again.


EDIT 2: OMG, I'm getting a serious brainstorm right now: May it be possible that NOTHING of this could fail, and the problem could come from my ECU? Could it be that my ecu wasn't working well? Maybe my first step would be pulling it of and checking it, right?
 
Last edited:
The Euro spec 2g 4G63 cars were 2.0 NA as mentioned, with a higher compression ratio. That engine was not used in the US that I recall.

I would definitely look at the MAF and/or the wiring, as 2 of those 3 codes are for sensors contained in the MAF itself.
 
i read the thread quickly

but it seems to me you have a crank angle sensor problem (CKP), and this could be caused buy a thrust bearing issue, causes over time on the 2g 7 bolt engine. id be leaning towards that explanation.

doing the 1g CAS mod seems like a band-aid to me.

dont shoot me!
 
Hi everyone!

It's been a long since I haven't posted anymore, but I've been working on my eclipse!

I finally solved the Camshaft sensor problem!

I lifted up the car, and... surprise! the camshaft sensor that i had to replace, was not the one placed behing the timing belt gear, so I didn't have to pull of the belt.
As I read at the manual, the sensor behind the timing gear is the CAMSHAFT, and the one that you can freely acces, is the CRANKSHAFT.

Somehow, my car has both sensors switched (?¿)

Well, at least my car woke up and worked again.

BUT

Now I have another problem: When I ride the car and get more tan 3000 rpm, beeing the car cold, I have IDLE issues, as if it splutters. The car is not able to keep accelerating.
When the engine gets warm, this problem dissapears.

2 Days ago, I thought that this could happen because of the 2 months that I had it stopped, and I thought that the fuel-admission was dirty. Then I tried to force it, to keep accelerating even if I got this issue, and the car went through 3000 rpm, and after a few seconds of "Spluttering" the problem solved.

I thought that I managed to fix it, but after a few Km, the car started to splutter again, warm, and at low RPMs, and suddently the engine turned off.

Now, I can start the engine and ride a few km, but the car has serious problems to accelerate. I cant go faster tan 80 km/h.

A long ago, I had MAF problems, and the symptomes where the same. Somehow, the MAF plug got disconnected and the car had the same issues.

Those facts, lead me to think that I have MAF issues.


I decided to take the MAF away... and I discovered this:


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The MAF filter was practically destroyed, and It could maybe hit the red sensor, damaging it.


As I wrote long time ago, when I managed to get the error codes from my engine, 2 of them were MAF sensor problems.

I supose I have to buy a new MAF and replace it, haven't I?

My question is: Does it need to be a DSM MAF, or every 4G63 MAF could fit and work? Even one from a turbo version?

Could be anything else than the MAF, what produces my issues? Like the Oxigen sensor (lambda)?
I replaced the Spark plugs and their cables.


Thanks in advance!
 
Hello again!

It's been a while since I haven't post any results, cause I got a lotof stuff to do, and couldn't manage to invest a lot of time for my car.

I bought a new thermistor, and replaced it on the MAF. No changes at all. The car continues to have iddle problems when cold and above 3000 RPM.

I supose that I can only buy a new MAF sensor, to solve this issue.

What do you think about? Any ideas ? Do you think the problem might be with the lambda sensor? The error codes definetely don't give me a lambda error.

Thanks in advance !
 
That was good news on the camshaft angle sensor. Verify that the ignition timing is correct. Since you installed a new CAS, you could have changed the ignition timing and that will cause idle and at-speed issues. There are several how-to's on the forum for the correct procedure on that.

If the ignition timing is okay, I would then verify that the timing belt had not jumped any teeth.

After that, try a new maf, because that is a plug & play operation. Since the maf has 7 connections, that does mean that if replacing the maf doesn't solve the problem, it could be a problem inside the ecu.

Good luck with the testing. Thanks for reporting back on the results.
 
Oh, sorry if I didn't explain myself correctly, but I haven't installed a new CAS.

Since I have the european version, it seems that the camshaft sensor was easy to change, because I didn't need to pull out the timing belt.

So, I didn't change my CAS.

Then, do you think I should look for a new MAF asap?

Thanks!
 
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