SlickPyro
10+ Year Contributor
- 226
- 6
- Jun 5, 2008
-
South Euclid,
Ohio
Alright here is what is going on and I assure everyone I have read up plenty on this. A few weeks ago I tore down the front of my engine to find where I had an oil leak. I found out that the cam seals, balance shaft belt pulley hole bolt, crank seal, and all other things were dry as a bone. I pulled to oil pump sprocket off and saw oil on the back of the sprocket and coming out of the seal. Now this engine I have only has like 2,000 miles. A stock rebuild with ARP hardware. I'm on a budget so when I rebuilt the engine I bought a topline oil pump and installed a mitsu oem bsek. So I replaced the leaky seal with a new oem seal and put the timing belt back on and everything. After a 250 mile drive from cleveland to columbus in the past week I lost 1/4 of a quart of oil on the way down. I filled it up before I came home but haven't checked to see how much I lost on the way back, I was going to check tomorrow before going to the shootout. Since replacing the seal didn't fix the leak what is the deal here? I read a few things saying if the oil pump sprocket has side to side movement then its F'd and replace it. I don't know if it does or not.
What I am wondering is can I buy a used oem front case and then buy new drive and driven gears for the oil pump and then replace it on my dsm since I have a topline pump that may or may not be causing the problem. Just looking for a little insight from some fellow dsmers. I thought it might be the tension of the belt pulling on the sprocket causing it to wobble in its bore causing the leak. The tension of the belt is set to where after you turn the engine over and wait 15 mins that you can put the pin in and pull it out of the tensioner.
Also I installed an AEM oil pressure gauge that is tapped right into where the stock sender was at, at the same time I was working on the seal and timing belt and I have good oil pressure. 11psi when hot at idle (perfect according to the factory service manual) and ~60psi IIRC when cruising on the highway going 70mph.
Just looking for a little help before I jack up my oil pump and in turn mess up the engine I built and have only put 2,000 miles on. I want to use this engine for a long time and this is the only thing wrong with it. I don't have the time or money to build another now and I really enjoy my dsm and I don't want to end up parting it out like so many others. Any insight would be very appreciated. Thank you.
What I am wondering is can I buy a used oem front case and then buy new drive and driven gears for the oil pump and then replace it on my dsm since I have a topline pump that may or may not be causing the problem. Just looking for a little insight from some fellow dsmers. I thought it might be the tension of the belt pulling on the sprocket causing it to wobble in its bore causing the leak. The tension of the belt is set to where after you turn the engine over and wait 15 mins that you can put the pin in and pull it out of the tensioner.
Also I installed an AEM oil pressure gauge that is tapped right into where the stock sender was at, at the same time I was working on the seal and timing belt and I have good oil pressure. 11psi when hot at idle (perfect according to the factory service manual) and ~60psi IIRC when cruising on the highway going 70mph.
Just looking for a little help before I jack up my oil pump and in turn mess up the engine I built and have only put 2,000 miles on. I want to use this engine for a long time and this is the only thing wrong with it. I don't have the time or money to build another now and I really enjoy my dsm and I don't want to end up parting it out like so many others. Any insight would be very appreciated. Thank you.