farmer890 said:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Second question, I have a set of oil pan bolts from STM. I have read that 2 of the bolts that go near the timing belt are shorter than the rest, however all 19 bolts are the same length in this kit.

One bolt sticks through(by the oil pump sprocket), see the attached photos. Is this going to be an issue? It looks out of the way enough for the timing belt to clear but just wanted some second opinions.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Click to expand...

So I can't help you with the first part of your question as I have a 6 bolt and every time I have installed mine it works just fine.

But about your second question I bought a STM oil pan bolt kit and I had the same thing. All the bolts were the same and I had the same clearance with the two bolt like you do. What I did, and I know that this might not be the best solution, but I just cut off a couple threads off the two bolts that need to be shorter until they are flush with the housing. Just one word of warning is that you need to find a nut that fits on those bolts and before you cut off the threads screw on the nut, then cut off the threads. This insures that you can debur the edges of the threads and still screw the bolt into the block without cross threading it. If you don't have a ban saw or a way of accurately cutting off the threads, like I did, I would use a bench grinder and grind down the threads instead. Once again make sure you have a nut to screw on or the bolt will be ruined and will most likely cross thread the hole or it won't screw in the hole at all. Hope this helps

Yeah that's what I was thinking. I guess I'll just chop two of them down with the nut in place first. Super annoying that the oil pan sits a c*nt hair off center, it's probably like 1/32 of an inch but it's screwing with me.

Maybe applying the RTV before fitting the oil pan would correct it, but I dunno. I'm not opposed to drilling the holes a touch to accommodate the misalignment but I just shouldn't have to.

That is very odd about the new oil pan touching the girdle. Should definitely clear it. Would it fit if you massaged it a little?

However you must run shorter bolts on the 2 holes nearest the timing belt. (the two bolts in the middle on that side) I have done this incorrectly before and in scores a line in your timing belt.

I think the standard bolt length is 17mm and the short ones are 10mm. What length are the STM stainless bolts?

That's a nice looking set. Might have to get some

Question #1
Here is another thread with the same issue with a solution:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/oil-pan-doesnt-fit-after-arp-main-stud-installation.293393/

Question #2
You do not have the correct bolt kit. You can buy the correct ones, or trim yours to the correct size.
Here are the sizes:
x17 6m x 1.00 (length= 13mm)
x2 6m x 1.00 (length= 7mm)

farmer890 said:

Yeah that's what I was thinking. I guess I'll just chop two of them down with the nut in place first. Super annoying that the oil pan sits a c*nt hair off center, it's probably like 1/32 of an inch but it's screwing with me.

Maybe applying the RTV before fitting the oil pan would correct it, but I dunno. I'm not opposed to drilling the holes a touch to accommodate the misalignment but I just shouldn't have to.

Click to expand...

I would be more inclined to beat the oil pan out a bit rather than drilling out the holes. You're better off having the holes tight as long as you can keep the sealing surface flat.

dave_nz said:

I would be more inclined to beat the oil pan out a bit rather than drilling out the holes. You're better off having the holes tight as long as you can keep the sealing surface flat.

Click to expand...

of course, that never even crossed my mind. It's such a small amount, I wouldn't even have to dent it that much. Well I'll do that and chop two of those bolts down, should be gravy after that. Thanks!

farmer890 said:

of course, that never even crossed my mind. It's such a small amount, I wouldn't even have to dent it that much. Well I'll do that and chop two of those bolts down, should be gravy after that. Thanks!

Click to expand...

My concern with heating the pan would be warping the flange.

2gmitsueclipse said:

My concern with heating the pan would be warping the flange.

Click to expand...

I don't even understand why I'm having any issues. Pretty annoying problem to run into. This is a brand new pan, block and hardware, like come on, shit should just fit right with no modifications. I'm 0/2 as far as STM bolt sets fitting correctly

I haven't had a damn thing fit correctly without a little or a lot of modification for this whole project. Welcome to aftermarket parts, by oem you mean you got it straight from the dealer? Cause otherwise its considered "aftermarket"

Oh wait the hood support shocks actually fit without modification...

It had the Mitsubishi part number/barcode sticker on the bag it came in. Not from the dealer directly but looked like that's where it originated from. As for the bolts not fitting right, in my opinion that shit is amateur hour but not a big deal overall. Ah well, it'll get done, just bumps in the road.