Ok do a compression test belt off there is a 99 percent of bent valves.

Mine jumped years ago and I was able to save it. Mine was also a failed tensioner. Somehow it didn't hit anything and jumped as a turned the car off. I got all new components and she fired right up after! Can you see how many teeth it jumped? Can you get the timing marks to tdc and see how far it's off?

sorry im still new to these cars what is tdc? and I cant turn anything the crank wont turn over. is there a way to take the belt off then re align everything?

That fact that you can't turn the engine over by hand isn't a good sign.
Trying to run a compression test at this point could cause more damage, just engaging the starter could.

Remove the valve cover, look for any of the cam followers popped off the valves. That's one indication you've crashed the pistons into the valves.

gsxlover97 said:

sorry im still new to these cars what is tdc? and I cant turn anything the crank wont turn over. is there a way to take the belt off then re align everything?

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So i just had my timing belt jump and break some teeth off a few weeks ago.

What I did was:
-Take the timing belt off
-Line up the cam timing marks (I used a Jay Racing cam tool to keep them together). This insures all the valves are closed.
-Line up the timing marks on the crank
-Did a leak down test to make sure there were no bent valves (I got lucky as I was revving around 7000+rpms when it jumped and broke)
-Replaced timing belt, tensioner, idler pulley, tensioner arm and tensioner pulley.
-Then I just started the car up. It fired up right away and I haven't had any problems since

It's quite straight forward and easily done. I do recommend doing the leak down test before putting a new belt on as that way you know if you're engine is ok before spending money for the new belt and parts.

what are the numbers im looking for in the leak down test? the car has 180,000 on it

I will also check the valve cover to after that test. Could any damage have happened if the car hasn't been started since it jumped and it didn't jump while running?

If I remember correctly spec is within 5-10%. Although if you bent any of your valves you're going to have around 90-100% leak and you'll be able to hear rushing air coming out either then intake or exhaust. That'll tell you everything for sure.

Truthfully I think if you haven't tried to start it and it wasn't running while the timing jumped you will be fine but just do what I said and you'll know for sure what is going on and if it's all good.

ok I will try to get that test done as soon as possible so I can repost on here for any more help and to update .....Thank you guys for the help

I didn't see any one answering your question about TDC. It means "Top Dead Center," which is when the piston inside the #1 cylinder (closes to the timing belt) is at it's highest point in it's rotation.

On my 96, there is v notched into the crank pulley which points a "T" stamped onto the lower timing cover. Once you pull the crank pulley and lower timing cover, there's another set of marks to help you stay in the right spot as you put it all together. There's a nice diagram in the vfaq which maps all the timing marks you'll need to check. If your car still has a balance shaft, you'll want to replace the belt for that too. Remember that the oil sprocket can be lined up with it's mark and be 180 out, which will cause the engine to shake violently when you start the car, and can cause a lot of damage. The way to test that is to put the mark on the sprocket at 12 o'clock and let go. If it falls counter clockwise, you're good to line it back up and put the belt on. If not, you need to spin it a full rotation and test it again.

UPDATE HELP.......ok so it took longer than thought to get the test but I have a question before I run the compression test.... The instructions are saying that the test has to be done by running the car for a little then hooking up the test and cranking it a few times to get the best results.....Can I still run this test with a non running car?....how do I do it?,,,,,,any help is greatly appreciated.......I have the belt off and everything lined up like its suppose to be just want to make sure I do this test right

scratch that last post guys sorry got the wrong tester given to me at the auto store.....going to get right tester now .....

So did you figure out why you couldn't rotate the crank by hand?

You cannot run a compression test. you should heed the advice above and look at the rockers now. If you tried tocrankit over with no belt the damage may already be done.

I haven't tried to crank it over since 2012 when it quit running. as of right now I haven't done anything but take the belt off and line everything back up. Was given the wrong tester but getting the right one right now so I can test hopefully tomorrow....As for turning the crank by hand that was me just being cautious....wasn't applying enough pressure to turn it cause I was worried I might mess something up.

lets start off this way. how many teeth did it jump? you have a maximum of 3 teeth to be off. 1 tooth is noticeable power loss. 2 teeth is a starting misfire. 3 teeth is still no damage to any valves but barely running. 4 teeth means you need to pull the head.

Do the leakdown test as per just instructions and you'll be just fine. Also why would he replace a belt there's no physical damage to but rather the idler pulleys and tensioner and while you're in there Cam and Crank Seals as well as both the front balance shaft and oil pump seals as well for peace of mind sake as they are also prone to wear as well.

Just a FYI 1 tooth off can cause a no start also. Mine jumped 1 and wouldn't start, wanted to but still wouldn't. Was a clue for my that somthing was up

K leak down test came out good car was Re timed and still not starting went and ran engine diagnostic and came back with bad crank angle sensor. Bought new sensor and sensor wheel... But now how do I get the crank pulley of to replace the metal wheel? Been trying to find a diagram or anything but everything I've found is either just bang on it till it comes off or go get a Puller. Can anyone help. Do I need to remove the bolt I use to turn the crank out what?

The bolt has to come off. It usually takes a 22mm(7/8") impact sock and impact wrench.

K how do I keep the crank from rotating counter clockwise or will the impact wrench just pop it easy

An air impact does not require that you hold the crank. It may move a little. You will have to retime everything to do what you are describing.

II already have the timing belt off. That's why I was asking if I have to do anything special to stop the crank from rotating. Just want to make sure I don't do anything wrong