Appears regular grey anti-seize is useless for extreme high temps and in fact leads to problems. So I started looking at Copper + Nickel anti-seize. Nickel is rated for higher temps than Copper and copper isn't for use on stainless steel either.

Anyone using mostly copper or nickel and not the cheaper regular stuff found at auto parts stores?

Note: was going to order 8 oz Motorcraft Nickel anti-seize in a jar ($12 shipped) but since nickel anti-seize fumes seem to associated with cancer a little weary about working with it. Maybe getting a small tube and being careful is the way to go?

Motorcraft isn't a manufacturer of anti seize so permatex or Loctite are prob making it. Loctite 51605 anti-seize is good to 2400*F and is what I use on all my turbo mounting bolts,o2 housing, downpipe and any exhaust stuff and it works great. I use it on everything that could remotely seize up. I took a lot of my daily car apart when I bought it in 03.. everything I used that anti seize on still comes apart easy. Loctite or permatex also make an anti seize for aluminum.

As far as the nickel burning off. Finish the job and start the car, some of the anti seize will burn off just do it outside or take the car for a test drive. As far as cancer.... the horrible food we eat will cause cancer before inhaling/touching some anti seize. If your worried about getting it on your hands I recommend the 7mm thick nitrile gloves from Harbor Freight.

I hate the cheap anti seize, it doesn't last and gets all gummy. You def get what you pay for and I'll tell you from what I've seen, it's worth it. Especially if you're the one working on your car. I'd go with the mototcraft, if not the loctite, I personally don't like permatex.

I'm a Loctite fanboy, they make really good products all around and to me are worth the little extra cash. Ive had stellar luck with their anti seize and 500series flange sealants.

As far as using the anti seize I paint it on the bolts like Picasso. I don't just dab some on the bolt and hope it works around when screwing the bolt in.

I use nickel-based anti-seize on any/all exhaust components where heat is involved. The is used regular anti-seize on anything else (that would not use thread locker) chassis and suspension related, as well as items exposed to elements.
I do not use SS hardware where any high-heat exposure is present. ARP makes great fasteners, but the turbo-to-manifold bolts and exhaust stud hardware has given me nothing but problems.

As far as fumes go, it seems most any labels only state that the chemicals have only been known to cause cancer in California. Based on that logic, safe everywhere else...

In all serious though, minimize exposure and use in a well-ventilated area and weather gloves. If you plan to keep your DSM a while, spring for the larger container. Obviously keep it out of your eyes, ears and other body orifices. I bet many of the fluids/pastes/greases in the DIY mechanics garage also contain chemicals that have been known to cause cancer in California.

I have used Loctites’s Heavy Duty Anti seize (Metal Free). It’s metal free and I have had some outstanding results with this stuff so far. I used it during my first overhaul about 4 years ago. I just recently tore into the entire front end and motor and it was money well spent.

Ok thanks for the quick replies!

So I'll get nickel anti-seize for high temp parts and use my regular stuff for most all else -or- perhaps just use nickel on everything.

Thinking about getting Ford Motorcraft Nickel anti-seize because price seems about best ($10 for 8 oz) -->

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-For...8oz-/221661750270?hash=item339c11e3fe&vxp=mtr

I use the dark grey nickel antiseize for turbo and manifold bolts. Yes, the light grey stuff is not rated for those temps but it doesn't mean it's crap. I'd use it everywhere else. I also keep a jar of the copper antiseize as well. I mix it up with the copper and light grey stuff.

Just seen there's metal free anti-seize too rated at 2500 degrees which is same as nickel. Although 20 gram stick is $12 vs $9 for 8 oz Ford Motorcraft nickel.

I have a few of those sticks that came home from work. They work well in a pinch but Id rather have the can with the brush. Every anti seize Loctite makes can be bought in the stick or the can so you can buy a can of the heavy duty anti seize that's metal free.

Wound up ordering metal-free brush-top 4 0z container (rated at 2500 degrees) for 12 bux shipped.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Metal-Free-...RO-2500-4oz-/400988936491?hash=item5d5ccd992b

Money well spent. In a few years when you take stuff apart for repairs and it comes apart easy you will be a happy camper .

Does anyone know if it is a good idea to use anti seize on the manifold studs that go into the head? I've read some people say to do it and others say no.

Also, if it is a good idea to use it on the studs, is this a good product?:
http://www.antiseize.com/metal-free-2000-anti-seize-and-lubricating-compound

I bought this^^ and I wanted to know if it'll be good for my manifold to turbo bolts as well as the studs to the head (if anti seize is necessary). It's metal free so not nickel or copper based.

I use a metal free formula from loctite on all of my exhaust fasteners. That looks to be mostly the same so I would role with it.

I use anti seize on all the studs except the one middle stud that requires RTV because it goes into a return oil gallery. Hope this helps.

It helps a ton thank you!