Will be a 7 bolt 4g64 block running a small 16g at the moment possibly a fp68hta later. goal is 450hp at the most farther down the road.

FIC 680cc injectors (I know with a bigger turbo will have to go bigger in future)
DSM link v3 speed density
walbro 255
fuel lab afpr kit
1g dohc head
gsc behive springs and retainers
gsc intake and exhaust valves
factory 1g cams
Manley h beam rods
Manley pistons 8.5:1 made for 4g64 block with 4g63 head
acl tri metal race rod and main bearings
Arp Main studs
Arp Head studs
New oem oil pump
Felpro composite head gasket

will be a daily drive might see occasional drag strip time here and there but mostly daily driver!!

I've read that 450 will be hard to reach with just that small 16g. Closer to 350 and that might be pushing it.

Idk. Maybe someone with more knowledge will chime in. This is just what I read.

I know 450 in unattainable with the small 16g talking about in the future with a bigger turbo 450 is the goal I want the bottom end parts I listed to be able to withstand.

What's your reasoning behind keeping the cams stock? If youre afraid of them being too aggressive you could just go for some 264's. Or a 264/272 combo since your end goal is 400+hp

Money atm the rest of this build is consuming all my funds and cams are the easiest upgrade down the road out of everything else. Next year will be bigger turbo and cams.

white7g said:

...goal is 450hp at the most farther down the road.


gsc behive springs and retainers
gsc intake and exhaust valves
Manley h beam rods
Manley pistons 8.5:1 made for 4g64 block with 4g63 head

will be a daily drive might see occasional drag strip time here and there but mostly daily driver!!

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If you're looking to build on a budget and upgrade later, I'd axe all the stuff above. A stock bottom end with upgraded hardware is good for 450hp on a good tune. You don't need rods and pistons at that power level IMO. In addition, there's no need to have essentially a built head, especially on stock cams. I'd take that money and put it elsewhere in the build if it were me. You can swap in springs and retainers when you swap in cams if need be. Lastly, oversized/aftermarket valves would be more of a want on my list, rather than a need.

Make sure you're accounting for all the little stuff I don't see in your list: like a WB, sensors, gaskets, maintenance items, and consumables. That stuff really adds up when you're building. With the money you could save by axing a built bottom end, you could invest in a larger turbo and injectors from the start. Consider your short term goals, and look at what parts will get you there. It's hard to build in the short term on a budget while also planning for the long term. With the versatility of the 4G platform and the vast amount of parts available, I'd worry more about the now.

Good luck with your build!

Grab a bigger turbo maybe a ht68ha.

bottom end has to be built had a rod bearing fail that's the reason why im upgrading the rods and pistons while its all apart so I wont have to go back into it later down the road. As far as the valve train I personally know greg that owns GSC and he gave me a deal to good to pass up on the Valve train parts. I have a zeitronix module with built in wideband and all that already on the car. The car had the 16g already on it so im not spending any money there at all. My question was pretty much will the parts listed be a good combo for 450 hp I know its overkill and overbuilt.

sounds a lot like what we built, overkill now IMHO is good, so you can always go big later. Our valves were shot so we went with one peice SS 1mm OS intake and .5 exhuast from running strong, built much like engbldr. It was the same price to put in stock or OS so now or never I looked at it.

also went with the bc 1100 springs plus titanium retainer set, got a good deal, so cams in the future are a must.

GST with PSI said:

If you're looking to build on a budget and upgrade later, I'd axe all the stuff above. A stock bottom end with upgraded hardware is good for 450hp on a good tune. You don't need rods and pistons at that power level IMO. In addition, there's no need to have essentially a built head, especially on stock cams. I'd take that money and put it elsewhere in the build if it were me. You can swap in springs and retainers when you swap in cams if need be. Lastly, oversized/aftermarket valves would be more of a want on my list, rather than a need.

Make sure you're accounting for all the little stuff I don't see in your list: like a WB, sensors, gaskets, maintenance items, and consumables. That stuff really adds up when you're building. With the money you could save by axing a built bottom end, you could invest in a larger turbo and injectors from the start. Consider your short term goals, and look at what parts will get you there. It's hard to build in the short term on a budget while also planning for the long term. With the versatility of the 4G platform and the vast amount of parts available, I'd worry more about the now.

Good luck with your build!

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It's a 4G64 bottom end. Yes he does need forged internals for 450HP. Why composite HG? 4G64 with 63 heads sometimes have HG issues. Not sure I'd risk it with a composite HG. What fuel? Pump gas I assume with that 255 and those 680cc injectors? Better get an FP Red or HX35 if you want 450 on pump. A 2.4L is gonna spool the hell out of that little turbo. That would be fun for sure. A 68HTA will get you 450HP on e85. Gonna need a bigger pump and injectors obviously though. Gonna be some decent boost to get there on a 68HTA, another reason I wouldn't run a composite HG. I had a 4G64 block in my EVO 8, with 156mm long rods and an HTA3582r. Was an awesome setup. HG leaked once even with L19 studs. If I were to do it again I'd probably o-ring the head.

bigdnno98 said:

It's a 4G64 bottom end. Yes he does need forged internals for 450HP.

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I've personally seen a 4G64 bottom end making north of 450whp...Now, how Reliable that was IDK. Although, I agree building over your goal is never a bad idea if budget allows. OP should upgrade if he can, but it's not required to meet his goals from what I've seen others do in the past.

The stock 4G64 9:1 CR would be fine but I'd be concerned about how long the rods and pistons would last on a motor that wasn't built for boost. I'm sure people have made decent power on a stock 4G64 shortblock but I personally wouldn't risk it. Could ruin a very nice crank and block in the process. A forged 4G64 2.4 long rod motor is the shit.

^ I agree. I think the high compression ratio and long rods would be the limiting factors. Great info in your post.

Build it once for boost the crank may hold or not, forged 4g64 a great platform.

The crankshaft is out of a 4g64 03 eclipse which is forged from the factory. Thank you for all the help has definatly gave me confidence in my plans.

iugrad92turbo said:

Build it once for boost the crank may hold or not, forged 4g64 a great platform.

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Crank will definitely hold. People have made +800HP on the stock 100mm crank.

yes some have i say do it big the first go round and your set.

I know this is an but is there a difference between the crank in the 4g64 eclipses and the evo?

I am a fellow 7G owner.

what are your plans for putting this power down? i was on a 2.0 with 60mm turbo on 12 lbs of boost and traction was a joke.

don't worry about power figures as much as practicality. i was trapping 105 mph in the 1/4 on stock tune 450's/ and fwd. about 220hp for reference

the 64 shares a lot of the same stuff as the 63. just make sure you do it once and do it right. otherwise you will pay a lot more money in the long run. wait if you can afford it to do all the things that need to be done.

i'm on the galant face book pages. if you have more questions.. just start typing kolio...

All I see is a parts list. Good luck repairing the bottom end.



P.S. Factory composite HG are superior to 90% of the aftermarket. HG's blow due to warped heads and head bolts / studs stretching, OR a crap ton of knock. Now if you're making 1000HP That's another story, for 450 hp it's completely unnecessary IMO, but if you are determined to upgrade it, go with a Mitsubishi SS HG, which will require a far better than normal surface job on the head AND block.

Honestly, I agree with the others saying you dont need pistions and rods. I just watched a video with a guy running 10.2 only a stock bottom end. Save the money on that and worry about things like quality gaskets and a tune. You can have the most built motor and if you skimp out a few things, there goes the motor.

ebay 20g for the win! do a port mod on it! maybe pack in a 20g compressor wheel into a 16g housing... Idk if a 20g will get you 450 but pretty close.. however whats your take on runnin e85?

sonicselli said:

ebay 20g for the win! do a port mod on it! maybe pack in a 20g compressor wheel into a 16g housing... Idk if a 20g will get you 450 but pretty close.. however whats your take on runnin e85?

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Did you really suggest using a ebay 20g? I hope your joking....

Type1DSMr said:

Did you really suggest using a ebay 20g? I hope your joking....

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He deserves to be reported for that post ...... wow, talk about horrible advice.

whoa whoa whoa! Hey guys not attempting to be kicked for my posts! Just offered up an option... He explained its eating up all of his funds so theres a cheap alternative.. absolutely agree with it not being a quality product... I believe jafro even has recommended using ebay 20g's