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Secondhand via forums at first, but like you I didn't believe it so I tested it out myself and sure as day, anything past vacuum is static at 50psi. You're welcome to try it yourself though and post up video results. I may have just had 5 bad ones in a row.

Interesting, So even without boost it can't maintain a 47 psi base or it starts leaking and can't hold more than 3 psi positive?
 
Interesting, So even without boost it can't maintain a 47 psi base or it starts leaking and can't hold more than 3 psi positive?


I would imagine so? Also, my previous post now that I read it has an extraordinarily dick-ish tone to it...this wasn't intentional at all. Sorry if I'm coming across as arrogant/cocky/etc. Not the intention at all.


But I confess ignorance. How I tested it was hooking up a fuel pressure gauge. I didn't test vacuum, I just started it out at 0/atmospheric pressure(because I had a small compressor line going to the nipple on the FPR), and fed it more and more and noticed it was staying static. I changed it out with a few other spares and they all did the same thing. They very really could've been bad, but that combined with how I'd heard it before is why I mentioned it.

If someone can honestly prove me wrong with hard data, I'll edit my stuff. I don't want to spread misinformation. I just know that the n/t FPR thing was driving me nuts trying to figure out a lean condition up top that didn't make sense from a VE standpoint, and that was why. Threw in a turbo FPR and bam, fixed.
 
Yeah I have no soldersucker I have 2 25 watt sodering irons is that to much heat?
And say I lost a lead can I just make a jumper wire?I would hate to ruin my eprom tcu LOL

I've got "good" 25W soldering irons and not so good ones. The cheap, not so good ones are only useful for tinning and soldering wires not working on circuit boards. Operator skill also comes into play, it's harder to burn a pad off the board with a 50W temp controlled iron than a cheap 25W pencil making it a easier tool for a less experienced solderer. Since you don't have a temp controlled iron, don't let it sit building up heat. Clean the tip, tin it, and quickly unsolder.

This is also a three handed task. One to hold the iron, one to hold the board, and one to remove the part or use the solder sucker. If you have a soft jawed vice that can help.
 
Secondhand via forums at first, but like you I didn't believe it so I tested it out myself and sure as day, anything past vacuum is static at 50psi. You're welcome to try it yourself though and post up video results. I may have just had 5 bad ones in a row.
Bad info. I've used many non turbo regulators on my cars through the years. Some over 30psi.
The reason I used them is that if you over run a stock 37.5 psi regulator to 50 psi with a Walbro, it's a pain to tune around. A 47 psi regulator over ran to 50 psi is taken care of with fuel trims.

The regulators have identical construction except for the spring pressure.
 
Maybe I've just got a handful of freak factory accidents that don't rise. Or they're all just 20+ years old and just plain don't work anymore. If Donnie says to me they're a rising rate, I believe him.



I was wrong. Thanks guys. :)



Edit: I remember where I got the information from. It was Curt @ Slowboyracing. Lol.
 
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Maybe I've just got a handful of freak factory accidents that don't rise. Or they're all just 20+ years old and just plain don't work anymore. If Donnie says to me they're a rising rate, I believe him.



I was wrong. Thanks guys. :)



Edit: I remember where I got the information from. It was Curt @ Slowboyracing. Lol.
To be fair I've come across a fair amount of stock regulators that leak so bad they probably don't even work. If you can turn the top of the regulator it's pretty much junk. I give them all a quick "mouth vacuum" test.
 
UPDATE:

Car hit 250,000 LOL

Well.. I replaced my end clutch and now I have two LOL old ones a ipt rebuild like the previous owner said (they rebuilt the whole trans in 2012) I still replaced it with a good known good one and the end clutch isn't working and first isn't noticable ,

I bought a good used valve body and new filter and pan gasket 14 bolt

For the filter witch bolts should I use ? The old ones or the new shorter ones for the filter? Ive got two sets ,

Anything I should do to prep my newer ish working valve body?

Im Hopeing I don't need to rebuild my transmission but will do it if need be :mrt:

Anything to watch out for ? Tips for valve bodys on auto transmission

I'm also getting the caps replaced once I open the tcu up again to see what I need unless one of you knows?
 

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Don't overtighten the trans filter bolts, or you'll crack the VB. They don't have to be ungodly tight.


Also, if it's anything other than OEM, use shorter bolts that came with the filter. The OEM bolts are too long.
 
Don't overtighten the trans filter bolts, or you'll crack the VB. They don't have to be ungodly tight.


Also, if it's anything other than OEM, use shorter bolts that came with the filter. The OEM bolts are too long.
Cool man I will use the shorter ones I've got a "pro-king" filter
 
I'm also getting the caps replaced once I open the tcu up again to see what I need unless one of you knows?

The one to be replaced is a 47uf, I forget the voltage on the original but something 25v or 35v should be fine and likely smaller in physical size than the original. I used 47uf 50v 105C temp rated cap because I had them for the ECU's.
 
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UPDATE:
Pics below
GOT some great news today...

Went to replace the valvebody and do a filter and fluid change and found out I have a broken band.. pretty sure it's the kick down band

Seems like every automatic thread ends in rebuilds..

So I have a few options

1: rebuild waste thousands on labour for some random to do it <-not happening LOL

2: remove trans and replace the broken band and call her a day working from the torque converter in

3 : do it myself with help from my bro with every tool from chrysler I need an Finnish it in a week

4: pull the tranny and send to a good freind for a 400$-600$ rebuild not sure though finding out tommrow

I'm considering option 3-4 possibly 2 but idk what do you guys think?
I'm rebuilding this trans no matter what


Why did this happen ??? I want to prevent this from happening again

I will keep everyone posted
 

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They usually break from improper installation, or the line pressure being too low. Can also be a drum problem, or there's a leak in the valve body/VB damaged. Can be a few things really.
 
They usually break from improper installation, or the line pressure being too low. Can also be a drum problem, or there's a leak in the valve body/VB damaged. Can be a few things really.
Thanks for the help! I'm sure it was the previous owners fault since this transmission was rebuilt in 2012 ish,
Fluid was a little dark but still red and smelt sweet ,

They rebuilt the f4a33 them selves but I remeber them saying they replaced one band not sure Whitch one tbh so it's possible my kick down band lasted 250,000 km?

Cars parked right now haven't even looked at it in a day witch is wierd since it's my dd LOL I'm drivein a big ass chevy right now hah

Anyone no of stronger bands for sale? My trans has the ipt kit
 
Btw after reading what gears use the kickdown band I lost 2nd and 4th apperntly I was drivein a 2 speed hah I had noticable soft shifts before I lost 4th and what seemed like first but ended up being 2nd gear
 
Yep. Honestly the stock bands I've not had a single issue with, as long as you install it properly. Proper preloads, torque spec, etc. If you do it wrong, it'll break again. It's actually not that hard, just follow the factory service manual's instructions to the T, and you'll not have a single issue either.
 
Well everythings ready for my transmission to be dropped both axels are out and battery is removed as well as the intake, inhibitor switch ect..

Im fixing a few things while my tranny is out includeing new seals for the axels
New driver side axel due to ripped boot and noises
Control arms, passenger tie rod(drivers side replaced), engine mounts, struts .

Hopefully she will have another smooth winter again after I fix some things hah

Anything I should check?? Anything I should replace also? Tips appreciated in removal also thanks for your time !
 
UPDATE: GOT the trans out

Only issues were my flex plate bolts being a b#### to remove but other than that dropping my trans was really not that bad took 3 hrs I'd say timeing belt was alot more difficult and really that wasn't bad either LOL

Time for the rebuild part tho should be done Farley fast

Here's some pics for those who care hah
 

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FINAL UPDATE: October 14 2015
Status: resolved
TRANSMISSION: F4A33-1 automatic

We'll this weekend we finally finished the transmission install
She shifts better than ever !
It's the perfect daily driver again

I now know a broken kickdown band will cause 2nd gear and overdrive to not engage (free rev)

I've noticed So many automatic transmission issue threads go unresolved,
so I thought I'd actually update this one along the way so people can have some extra information

I'd like to add don't ignore your bad motor mounts ,I get zero clunks now shifting to any gear

Things I try'd to fix the issue with zero help: end clutch , valve body ,tps, pulse generators ,random wiring,

In the end the kickdown band needed to be replaced and seals for the pump and axel and new gaskets on the transfer case and pan (cork)

So there ya have it, later
 
Necro'd. I'm experiencing the same thing with 191K on the auto trans (!!). What kit did you end up going with? After watching rebuild videos on it - a lot of the tranny disassembly is straight forward, and a few parts are tricky to say the least. Can't find a used tranny for the life of me, so I am considering doing the same thing. Any update? :>
 
Did you remove the oil pan an valve body?
Youll see if it broke , if so u can get away with removing the pump ect youll see the kick down drum 1/3 of the way in .
Youll need all new seals .

Have you looked at your tcu?
 
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