I pull the engine and trans together, I have heard it is possible to leave the trans in the car but there is not a lot of room so... just pull them together.

Yes the only way to replace the short block and transmission is to pull and install them together. As far as placing the jack stands take a look at the picture.

I have to ask....you're planning a motor pull but don't know where to jack up the car? What is your skill level? We all have to start somewhere but aotor pull is not a small job

pauleyman said:

I have to ask....you're planning a motor pull but don't know where to jack up the car? What is your skill level? We all have to start somewhere but aotor pull is not a small job

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Yeah I've done the head a couple of times, did my own timing belt jobs about 3 times all successfully without any problems afterwards.

I've just never jacked it up except for like to pull a single wheel at a time.

So what happened is the engine I have now it leaked a seal in the block, it leaked oil on my on the timing belt. The short of it is I want to buy a used engine and swap it along with a new clutch because the clutch has at least 60-70K on it so I might as well while I am swapping the engine.

Ideally, my goal is to pull the engine over one weekend, and put the engine in by the next weekend.

I have a hoist, and the leveler and engine stand all from harbor freight.

keltalon said:

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Yes the only way to replace the short block and transmission is to pull and install them together. As far as placing the jack stands take a look at the picture.

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I see blue highlights, red and also black arrows. Which are is best to put it on jack stands to pull the engine and transmission at once? I think the blue highlighted, how about you people?

Spoolin4Ever said:

I see blue highlights, red and also black arrows. Which are is best to put it on jack stands to pull the engine and transmission at once? I think the blue highlighted, how about you people?

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No put them on the tabs under the side skirts. If you put them on the blue you will have a hard time with the front axles.

keltalon said:

No put them on the tabs under the side skirts. If you put them on the blue you will have a hard time with the front axles.

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yeah i really had a problem with those front axles the very first time i pulled the motor. I put them right on the blue the first time.

You will need a couple more items along with the tools you mentioned.
As follows:

• Sharpie markers
• blue painter's tape (label connectors)
• Ziploc bags of various sizes

Each hose and wire connector should be labeled. Bolts/fasteners put into labeled bags for each item removed. I even number the heads in a clock-wise rotation to ensure they go back exactly where they need to.

You can jack up the car at the front cross-member as labeled by a large arrow in post 3 and put the jack stands at the front most arrows under the side skirts. There will be a notch indicating where the stands should go. To pull the engine and trans together (highly suggest), you may want to remove the harmonic balancer and some of the delicate items on the oil filter housing. They are easily damaged during install/removal. Four wheel dollies are another tool you should have picked up from HF to move the engine/trans around mores easily. While there are multiple ways and methods of removing the engine/trans, here is one method provided via VFAQ: http://www.vfaq.com/mods/wayback/engineremovala.html

On another note, you will need to be creative when doing a job like this. As seen in my custom Miller non-marring 4G63 install tool see here: ****notice the use of blue tape****

make sure everything is disconnected before lifting! double check, triple check! Happens to often where something gets ripped out and creates another headache!

Hey I am changing my mind though I think I shold leave the transmission in the car because the transmission is good I just want to put a clutch in. I am outdoors gravel driveway cars parked right next to me, people coming and going. So should I just pull the engine and leave the transmission in the car? I just need to swap engines, first I need to pull this one then buying a used engine. And do a clutch, i though maybe it would be easier to leave the tranny in the car?

pauleyman said:

I have to ask....you're planning a motor pull but don't know where to jack up the car? What is your skill level? We all have to start somewhere but aotor pull is not a small job

Click to expand...

You'd think that, but how many DSMs, or unibody cars in general have you purchased that had jacked up pinch welds, bent floor boards, and mashed frame rails?

Maybe this guy just wants to knock the best place to jack the car to avoid that?

Anyways to the OP. I Tend to jack the car from the radiator support/cross member intersection in the front. And the Middle of the rear subframe in the back when I need to raise both axles. I Prefer to place the Jack stands On the subframe. but if you have jack stands with pinch weld grooves in them, you can use the factory supporting points along the pinch welds. There should be a cut out in the side skirts.

your gonna have to remove the transmission. i don't think there is enough room to separate the engine and tranny enough for the clutch to clear the bellhousing. besisdes its way easier to stab the transmission with the trans and engine out of the car. if you had a modular clutch like the 420a cars do, it would be different. you can leave the tranny in place on those.

Spoolin4Ever said:

Yeah I've done the head a couple of times, did my own timing belt jobs about 3 times all successfully without any problems afterwards.

I've just never jacked it up except for like to pull a single wheel at a time.

So what happened is the engine I have now it leaked a seal in the block, it leaked oil on my on the timing belt. The short of it is I want to buy a used engine and swap it along with a new clutch because the clutch has at least 60-70K on it so I might as well while I am swapping the engine.

Click to expand...

hopefully u are working on a level surface defiantly pull motor and trans together it will make life alot easier for you when it comes time to mate the motor and trans back together especially considering you have never done it before those splines on the input shaft can be a real pain

I would jack the front of the car up, undo everything you need underneath and put the car back on the ground, ESPECIALLY IN GRAVEL! Have your car pulled up enough where you AND SOME HELP can pull MOTOR & TRANS TOGETHER, as soon as you have the pair just high enough in the air to clear to radiator/core support, push the car back a little and lower the motor and Trans close to the ground! I have done this before in grass, gravel and dirt. Usually never happened without the hoist wanting to lean 1 way or another. Have 1 person stand on a leg of the hoist and another person on the opposite leg while you are jacking up the hoist with hopefully another 2 people to push the car back. This is what friends are for
Best of luck, and label all connectors like people have already said. It's so easy and frustrating when you plug something in where it doesn't belong, Mitsubishi down fall

Spoolin4Ever said:

I want to swap out a long block, and also put in a new clutch. I need to know where to jack it up and where to put the jack stands, and also I want to know, should I pull the engine and transmission at once or seperately?

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Pull it all at once...You put the jackstands on the pinchrail behind the front wheels you can also put them on the frame either way there is a lot of weight on the jackstands, So after that you can pull the engine and trans together, everything, i mean everything has to come off and be disconnected, transfer case comes off..driveshaft disconnect, axles out, hubs off, gussets on underside of engine bay come off, exhaust comes off, radiator out, condensor out, battery tray/pan out, cruise moved out of the way, pull top engine mount, front engine mount comes off... get some chains and a load leveler to hook to to start your hoist with a cherry picker. oooh yea drain the oils/gear lube, coolant

Hubs do not have to come off

Hey; what about dropping the transmission from down below first, then tak the engine out from above? Would that make it easier? BTW, the head is off the engine, so it's just the engine block basically.

Spoolin4Ever said:

Hey; what about dropping the transmission from down below first, then tak the engine out from above? Would that make it easier? BTW, the head is off the engine, so it's just the engine block basically.

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One question why? This makes absolutely no sense. I. Could pull two engines by the time you drop the transmission from the bottom and then pull the engine from the top. Just saying most agree its easier to just pull the engine and transmission as one since both has to come out.

Why are you pulling the whole engine just because of a bad seal?

doubleclutch said:

Why are you pulling the whole engine just because of a bad seal?

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Story is a little iffy and incomplete but I guess he jumped timing due to oil getting into the timing belt and now the engine is broken and instead of fixing the head, he's just going to swap a complete engine instead?

Yeah, here's the story; I had a rebuilt head put on the engine. Well I didn't do the bottom end, and a seal leaked oil all over the timing belt. I think that was in the block, like the crankshaft seal or some other seal. The block has a lot of miles (it was rebuilt before), I don't know exactly how many miles it has on it. It's a 6 bolt, balance shafts removed and it has oversized pistons, I got to check to verify the size. Engine was burning oil due to oil rings are bad. And all seals need replaced, bearings, rings, and rebuild oil pump. I didn't know the oil rings were bad though I thought it was burning oil for some other reason so I just did the head before.

The head is good still. I have pulled the head, turbo, exhaust, radiator, timing stuff, etc. I will continue to strip it down to the block and transmission, to make it more manageable to remove, lighter, smaller.


Where do I put my chains on it, pulling just the block and transmission together? Which chains do I buy? Is there a kit all ready with fasteners or do you just go to home depot and buy some chain and a few bolts? I need to know what size bolts and chain.

you don't necessarily even need chains. shoot i pulled my whole motor and tranny just with strategically wrapped tow straps and my hoist. as long as you make crosses to get the best support and can make a secure knot (if necessary), it will come out just fine

Just pulled my engine and transmission on my 1g the other week. Both together, put my tranny on an old tire. Just make sure you mark eveything. I didnt have a leveler but it worked out with a buddy helping me

Well the car is still sitting here! I need to know what order to do the half shafts, axles, transfer case and cross member?

http://www.vfaq.com/index-main.html

Go to the 'Engine Section' and 1g AWD engine removal is right there. Pics and all.