sorry this is so long, dont be scared ive listed alot of stuff so you guys can help me!

issue:free rev with overdrive on , off no issues

alright ive researched alot even replaced my pulse generators due to them being out of spec .
this fixed some shifting issues but now i lost over drive it just free revs (it shifts into over drive, but just revvs though so not the pump and started happening yesturday)

so im thinking i should swap out the end clutch assembly with a known working one from a awd part out whitch brings me to the question can i use the awd turbo tranny end clutch in my fwd turbo auto tranny? looking in the manual they seem to be the same part then that will give me enough time to rebuild my end clutch with the ipt kit


the tranny was rebuild around 100,000km ago( by previous owner) new 2nd gear band clutch packs , new pump, and a bunch of other things i cant remeber but can get my maintance list and check if need be.

if i put overdrive off it shifts normally

i get trannsmission codes ( i used a mmcd version for transmissions can give the softwear to any one interested) 82, to do with pulse generator b

code 13 tps out of adjustment

sometimes code 84

some things i want to claify is how hard is it to just swap out the whole end clutch ? do i need to drain the fluid ive heard you can drain a quart and have at it?

link from person with simular issue

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/weird-od-issue.439059/

and sites i looked at about end clutch
http://www.plymouthlaser.com/ec.htm ----end clutch install

any input appreciated like litterally anything this is putting off my paint job and this is my daily driver ive got other vehicles i could use if need be but i hope i can fix this!!

im running a 91 f4a33 turbo automatic transmission (fwd) and for some reason i have a awd end clutch cover but instead of w4a33 its w4a32?

litterally need to fix this before winter

Tranny fluids is nice clear red btw

Yes they are interchangeable. They're very easy to replace too if you have the whole drum and everything already assembled. I believe the end clutches for the A32 and A33 are the same, but someone can correct me if I'm wrong here. The front, forward, and reverse clutches are thinner and there are physically less of them in the W4A32, I know that for a fact. But everywhere I checked listed the end clutches the same from the F4/W4A32 and F4/W4A33 and even the K-series auto trannies.

CrackedDSM said:

Yes they are interchangeable. They're very easy to replace too if you have the whole drum and everything already assembled. I believe the end clutches for the A32 and A33 are the same, but someone can correct me if I'm wrong here. The front, forward, and reverse clutches are thinner and there are physically less of them in the W4A32, I know that for a fact. But everywhere I checked listed the end clutches the same from the F4/W4A32 and F4/W4A33 and even the K-series auto trannies.

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Thanks for the reply!

Yeah I thought so since my manual never states there differant

Is my tranny some kind of Frankenstein then? It's a F4A33

Super dumb question------Can I get away with just replaceing the end clutch with tranny fluid still in the trans? I'm really hopeing I get this fixed, I work every where and with out first I get very very bad gas milage

I still get codes 82,84 with new pulse generators

Yeah, you can, but you take the risk of debris getting into the transmission's internals and wreaking hell in there. Just do it in a closed space away from wind, dust, debris, etc.


Also, you're running an AWD end clutch cover that says W4A32? Does it actually say F4A33-1 on the bellhousing near the engine block?

It's the original transmission just rebuilt , and I'll make sure to do it in a clean area but I'm hopeing it's not something else

and I guess it's just the cover

Does 2nd gear work ok?

It still shifts kind of funny but sometimes its fine and will shift perfect but now I lost 4th I replaced my pulse generators and I'm still getting code 82 and 84 and 13 for tps

I think because of my malfunctioning tps (code 13) its shifting a bit late in 2ND I measured the ohms from my harness at the tcu it was 1200 ohms wot is that off? Should i be seeing what i see on my tps?

at the sensor I get 500 ohms closed throttle and 4700 at wot

Does 4th gear reving/makeing no power mean somethings wrong with my end clutch? My tranny fluids nice red

bmxfelon420 said:

Does 2nd gear work ok?

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Sounds like your TCU might be going bad. Also drop the pan and check your magnets to see if there's a bunch of material on them.

bmxfelon420 said:

Sounds like your TCU might be going bad. Also drop the pan and check your magnets to see if there's a bunch of material on them.

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I'm really hopeing my tcu is good, I have a picture of it I'll post up in a sec, it's a eprom tcu also

I noticed that today driveing home from work that when overdrive is on my car will shift randomly like it's going in neutral(free rev)--4th---3----4 free rev then limp mode I forgot to check my trans codes but I'm wondering if my tps is causeing this all when I tested the resistence on the tcu (tps) wire I never got the same readings in ohms as my tps UNLESS it uses voltage or something to read my tps the tcu that is,

I got no cel code for my tps but I did on my trans code 13,

Wondering if I should just get a shift kit also because tcus are rare in winnipeg ,
My tranny fluid is nice red , I have a feeling something went and I ain't happy because this cars was so reliable engine runs like new and it shifted perfect until now

I can't find the scsv (shift control solenoid valve) and the pressure control solenoid I want to test it it's a 4 pin harness that I don't seem to be able to find

Thinkin of trying the blue wire mod also

But I can't really feel 1st gear now tbh it's almost like it's stuck in 2 ,then 3, and then 4 free revs

Wonder what happens if my caps go in a tcu?

And if im dropping my pan (not feasible till this weekend) I'm cleaning and testing every solenoid but like I said the fluid still looks like the same when I bought it

End clutch is easy, just pop the housing off and replace the orings and steels and clutches. You will probably find a rip or tear in the outside large rubber that seals the pack. Follow the IPT Youtube video and its a breeze. A 175 shiftkit is pretty easy also if you have it when/if you have the pan off. If you put a new filter on MAKE SURE that it isn't a revised version as they take shorter mounting bolts or you will break through the viens of the valve body and ruin it. Our new WIX filter was the revised version and didn't come with new shorter bolts and that's how I know to watch for it if putting in a new filter as the original bolts will leave it loose and sloppy and if you tighten it down to hard it breaks the valve body....bad experience.

1990TSIAWDTALON said:

End clutch is easy, just pop the housing off and replace the orings and steels and clutches. You will probably find a rip or tear in the outside large rubber that seals the pack. Follow the IPT Youtube video and its a breeze. A 175 shiftkit is pretty easy also if you have it when/if you have the pan off. If you put a new filter on MAKE SURE that it isn't a revised version as they take shorter mounting bolts or you will break through the viens of the valve body and ruin it. Our new WIX filter was the revised version and didn't come with new shorter bolts and that's how I know to watch for it if putting in a new filter as the original bolts will leave it loose and sloppy and if you tighten it down to hard it breaks the valve body....bad experience.

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Crazy, the second one I got came with bolts, third didnt. But I just used the second set on the third filter, no issues.

Good deal. I just thought I should share that info before someone else ruined there valve body too.

Yeah I've heard about the filter bolts braking valve body's , are these filters available easily or should I order one and rack the credit card up? I've got a awd trans I can use for parts from someone local so I'm thinking either buy it or get parts off it but I'm not gonna sink a bunch of cash into it and not have a working trans that's why my paint jobs been postphoned

I wanna restore this vehicle slowly not everything at once but I'm Wondering what 4;th gear free reving could possibly be I no my tps is throwing a code on my transmission not on the ecu though

Can end clutches fail and cause nothinh but free reving?

1990TSIAWDTALON said:

End clutch is easy, just pop the housing off and replace the orings and steels and clutches. You will probably find a rip or tear in the outside large rubber that seals the pack. Follow the IPT Youtube video and its a breeze. A 175 shiftkit is pretty easy also if you have it when/if you have the pan off. If you put a new filter on MAKE SURE that it isn't a revised version as they take shorter mounting bolts or you will break through the viens of the valve body and ruin it. Our new WIX filter was the revised version and didn't come with new shorter bolts and that's how I know to watch for it if putting in a new filter as the original bolts will leave it loose and sloppy and if you tighten it down to hard it breaks the valve body....bad experience.

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On anot her note can I just swap a used one in easily? While I rebuild my other one

My tps is at .6 volts so that's why my tcu is throwing code 13 , I have no other codes today but I no forth is gone.

I'm replaceing my end clutch asap, it free revvs all day so I turn o/d off and drive

I have to adjust my tps while im swaping my turbo fpr for a N/T fpr might as well right ?
I want a shift box

You're not putting a n/t FPR on a turbo motor are you? Keep in mind they're not a rising rate FPR. So that 50psi of base fuel pressure is static.


If it's n/t, ignore me.

CrackedDSM said:

You're not putting a n/t FPR on a turbo motor are you? Keep in mind they're not a rising rate FPR. So that 50psi of base fuel pressure is static.


If it's n/t, ignore me.

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I'm turbo to non turbo swap when I bought the car it still had 390cc injectors with resister pack ,turbo ecu and turbo fpr

I've swapped over to n/t stuff even except for the fpr so that's why instead of removeing my throttle body I'm removeing my fuel rail and getting both done at once

I have all gears 1 is hard to feel tbh

No tranny codes except for tps ~ 13 ,

Free rev in 4th so I'm swapping clutch packs in a day or two

Our car would free rev in O/D only. It sure sounds like an easy end clutch rebuuld...don't be worried, the ipt video is great. Your apply servo isn't holding pressure for overdrive which is common. We did ours in the carport iirc.

o0GuitarKid0o said:

I'm really hopeing my tcu is good, I have a picture of it I'll post up in a sec, it's a eprom tcu also

Wonder what happens if my caps go in a tcu?

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Change that original 47uf cap right away, it's the one that leaks and kills the TCU's. It's the big capacitor at C25 next to the heatsink for the voltage regulator pass transistor.

CrackedDSM said:

You're not putting a n/t FPR on a turbo motor are you? Keep in mind they're not a rising rate FPR. So that 50psi of base fuel pressure is static.

Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure all the 4G63 factory fuel pressure regulators are 1:1 rising rate and will continue to track manifold pressure into boost, even the N/T version. Where did you get your information?

steve said:

Change that original 47uf cap right away, it's the one that leaks and kills the TCU's. It's the big capacitor at C25 next to the heatsink for the voltage regulator pass transistor.

I'm pretty sure all the 4G63 factory fuel pressure regulators are 1:1 rising rate and will continue to track manifold pressure into boost, even the N/T version. Where did you get your information?

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Only issue I have is if I somehow fry my tcu In the process
I've even got that capacitor lying around , I have a background in electronics but if I screw up the tcu im screwed any tips Steve?

BTW I'm buying a used end clutch that works to throw in while I get a ipt kit and rebuild my other end clutch , never a bad idea to have a spare hopefully I'll get it done tmmr

o0GuitarKid0o said:

Only issue I have is if I somehow fry my tcu In the process
I've even got that capacitor lying around , I have a background in electronics but if I screw up the tcu im screwed any tips Steve?

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All depends on what you find underneath the capacitor.

You'll need a good soldering iron, and a sucker or braid. Temp controlled iron is best so you don't burn the solder pads off the board.

Flux remover and a Q-Tip works for removing the conformal coating, remove it around the two solder points before unsoldering the capacitor. The clean the coating off the top of the board that was under the capacitor and check for corrosion, anything that isn't shiny and smooth.

The hard part is moving the tabs that hold the power resistors so you can remove the board, you can't pry on the resistors or you may fracture them. Remember to bend them back after...

steve said:

All depends on what you find underneath the capacitor.

You'll need a good soldering iron, and a sucker or braid. Temp controlled iron is best so you don't burn the solder pads off the board.

Flux remover and a Q-Tip works for removing the conformal coating, remove it around the two solder points before unsoldering the capacitor. The clean the coating off the top of the board that was under the capacitor and check for corrosion, anything that isn't shiny and smooth.

The had part is moving the tabs that hold the power resistors so you can remove the board, you can't pry on the resistors or you may fracture them. Remember to bend them back after...

Click to expand...

Yeah I have no soldersucker I have 2 25 watt sodering irons is that to much heat? And say I lost a lead can I just make a jumper wire?I would hate to ruin my eprom tcu
Thanks for the help every one

1990TSIAWDTALON said:

Our car would free rev in O/D only. It sure sounds like an easy end clutch rebuuld...don't be worried, the ipt video is great. Your apply servo isn't holding pressure for overdrive which is common. We did ours in the carport iirc.

Click to expand...

Cool man I'll let you no how it goes with the replace

steve said:

I'm pretty sure all the 4G63 factory fuel pressure regulators are 1:1 rising rate and will continue to track manifold pressure into boost, even the N/T version. Where did you get your information?

Click to expand...

Secondhand via forums at first, but like you I didn't believe it so I tested it out myself and sure as day, anything past vacuum is static at 50psi. You're welcome to try it yourself though and post up video results. I may have just had 5 bad ones in a row.